Question about 2002 Triumph Triumph Bonneville

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2002 bonneville no spark

Cannot find ign. coil resistance values in manual to test coil. With batt. fully charged will bike start if alt./stator is faulty? What is logical progression to test ignition system?

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Try here mate you may find what your after

http://www.manualz.info/


hope this helps

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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99 Honda Valkyrie Changed alternator , new battery on the bike took it out and it still not charging


Hi, David the voltage regulator is the #1 cause of faulty charging systems before testing any electrical component in the Charging System Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Another Battery charging question
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
HONDA VALKYRIE RUNE NXR 1800 WORKSHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL Download... $10 very cheap
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/ShopTalk/ValkMaintManAcrobatPDF.pdf
http://mybikemanuals.com/honda

Apr 09, 2017 | 1999 Honda F6 C Valkyrie

1 Answer

It is possible to run honda 2010 xr200 without stator ? only fully charge battery.


Not sure but prob not it runs thru stator to CID then sends the rite pulse to match the timing which is read by the magneto to send the juice at the rite time to the coil try to wire a hot wire to the batt from coil and see some older bikes will but I don't think it will work on an 2010

Aug 30, 2013 | Honda XR 200 Motorcycles

1 Answer

2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90T not charging


Hi, Ytruelove before testing any electrical component in the Charging System Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Suzuki C90t Stator Problem
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
Suzuki VL1500 Service Manual
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki Intruder VL1500B Owner Manual

Mar 31, 2017 | 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90

1 Answer

My 2003 crf150f is not gettimg no spark from the coil everything else gets fire but the coil what could it be.


you need to use multi meter to test resistance readings from the stator your owner manual or bike shop can tell you what readings are within spec for each source on the stator but from what your saying and the age of bike almost definitely would be stator related
stator would normally have 2 or 3 sources of power or alternatively called tappings of the one stator my guess is when you test it with meter (OHMS) readings you will find at least one of the source power being out of spec and pretty much if any of the tappings or sources are out of spec you will not get bike to start from kick over - you will have weak spark or no spark!
any bike shop should be able to test the resistances for you if you dont have multi meter

good luck regards Jamie

Jun 20, 2011 | 2003 Honda CRF 150 F

1 Answer

2001 VT 1100C shadow Spirit. 2/7/2011 brand new battery,and still i have a dead battery after long rides.where is alternater located? could that be my problem?


i have the same problem, The most likely problem is that your charging
system is not working or your battery has a faulty or shorted battery cell.

The battery should be load tested at an
auto shop or motorcyle dealer.
This will verify if it is still okay.
It must be fully charged to do a load test.

You can connect a multimeter to the battery
terminals and see if the bike is charging.
Speed the bike up to about 3000 rpm
and see if the battery voltage is about 14 volts
or slightly higher.

If the voltage is only the same as the battery
or under 13 volts then the bike is not charging
properly.

This could be a faulty alternator stator coil
or a faulty regulator/rectifier unit.

The alternator stator connector
is under the seat. It has a white
connector with 3 yellow wires.

Unplug the connector and check the
"AC" voltage between each set of yellow
wires with the bike running fast idle.

Between any two yellow wires you should have
30-60 volts "AC"
Also, none of the yellow wires
should have any connection to ground.
You can check that with the ohms setting
on the meter.

If the stator voltage is low or none
then the stator coil under the
left engine cover will need to
be replaced.

If the voltage is okay on the stator
but not on the battery then
the regulator/rectifier unit is likely
faulty. There is no test, just replace
it if the stator voltage is good and
the battery is good.

To check for a drain just remove your
negative battery cable and put a test
light between the battery and the cable.
If it lights up with the key off, that
is a drain. Pop fuses until it goes off
to find the troubled circuit.

Mar 16, 2011 | 2001 Honda VT 750 CD Shadow A.C.E. Deluxe

2 Answers

Battery loosing charge.


check your alternator/stator plate is putting current to the battery my guess is its goosed / multimeter across batery terminals should read 14.2 volts when engine is running if not its stator plate /check all terminals 1st with wd40 then chack again if it still persist then its ur stator burnt a coil

Mar 27, 2017 | 1994 Triumph Trophy 900

2 Answers

Alternator don't charge the battery, change carbon?


It will be a permanent magnet alternator, there are no carbon brushes, you will need a manual for that model and start checking resistances with a multi meter.
without being able to tell you exact readings...
there will be three wires the same color coming from the stator(usually all yellow or all white) the resistance between any pair must be the same, and none of them should indicate to ground. When the bike is running any pair of these will produce about 50volts AC.
If this checks out you probably need a new regulator

Apr 28, 2010 | 1981 Suzuki GSX 400 F

1 Answer

Bike hasn't been running for months. change of owner. low batt. Boosted off truck. All four cable leads conected, ''truck to bike'',truck started, main fuse blows: 1-stator coil de-magnitized ...


First of all, when boost starting a bike from a auto make sure the auto is NOT running. The auto battery has more than enough power all by itself.

The most likely is 4) None of the above. The truck's charging system put more than 30 amps into the bike's electrical system and blew the fuse.

Get a new bike battery and fully charge it. Then go from there. If you really want to see if the bike will run before buying a new battery go ahead and hook up the cables to the truck battery and try it with the truck off.

A faulty alternator/regulator/rectifier should have no effect on the bike actually starting or turning over. Only the output of the charging system would be affected, possibly causing the bike to die when the cables are removed. My '78 Honda would not run at all without battery power, not sure if the Kawasaki is the same or not.

Jul 20, 2009 | 1979 kawasaki KZ 1300 A1

1 Answer

KMX WONT START


try replacing spark plug 1st set at proper gap. next take plug cap off wire by unscrewing it from wire. hold 1/4" from motor and crank. if none, trim 1/8" off wire and retry. your pulser coil could be out. get multimeter, get service manual, find resistance reading,unplug stator/pulser coil plug(S) follow manual test procedure for testing stator coil, and pulser. check ign coil,make sure grounded to frame,clean rust, check resistance readings(manual) or test system w/ known good unit. lastly check wiring for continuity if no fire.

Feb 19, 2009 | 2001 kawasaki KMX 125

1 Answer

Want hold a charge


get a test light and a schematic. unplug stator plug.start bike ,make sure battery has full charge. test each pin on connector that is attatched to the 3 yellow wires.should light on each pin. if all good check for burn marks around connectors, front & back sides, and on wires. if no power on yellow wires, stator problem. if power, plug connector together, now test for voltage in wires on the voltage regulator side of the connector, to see if the voltage is making it through the connector.if there is power to volt. regulator,test w/ multi meter across battery leads to see if there is charging voltage to battery,approximately 13-15 volts. if only battery voltage(12.2 or less) while bike is running,voltage regulator is no good.if charging good, but bike wont start after prolonged sitting(say overnight) a system amp draw test is needed to see if something is staying powered up while bike is not running, drawing down battery.

Feb 18, 2009 | 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

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