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Hi, Deandre the knock could be piston slap, lower rod bearing or bushing not the most popular of could be's but are generally at the top of the usual suspect list as far as stalling when put into first gear that could be something as simple as a faulty side stand switch feeling better? for this scenario, you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day. Help knocking engine sound The FZR Forum Yamaha FZR600R Service Manual OEM parts for Yamaha http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Yamaha_FZR600L_FZR600LC.pdf
Afraid that sounds like the ends are gone, the best way to tell is to get a compression test done on it, but you can usually work it out for yourself.
The engine is under most strain when the power demand is highest for example when accelerating uphill from a slow rolling speed. you will also get the knocking on the overrun, i.e when you have been running at a higher speed and you shut the throttle. When maintaining the same speed does the knocking get more or less? if its less then its almost certain the ends have gone
If as I think it is the ends (usually the big ends rather than the little ends) I afraid its probably terminal. the cost of repair would be too high.
Be careful when riding as the probable result of worn end shells is a con rod through the side of the block and at speed that could be seriously dangerous
Make sure that the jets are removed when cleaning and visually inspect them before assembly. Idle jets have very small holes and are hard to clean. Might have to use a single nylon bristle to knock out any crud stuck inside. You can also use carb cleaners in the fuel to try and clean out deposits. They are not a one shot clean, it takes a few tanks to get results.
First of all , change your oil pressure sender . It should be easy to do and relatively inexpensive. See if that fixes the oil light going on and off. If the light stays on after that , turn off the bike and replace the oil pump. If you have a bad oil pump and continued to drive the bike , you may have caused serious damage to the motor and may end up having to disassemble the engine to determine the cause of the knock.
Sounds like the carbs were not properly cleaned or set up. Choke should cause the cold start rpms to be higher than what you are experiencing. Application of choke to a warmed up engine will usually cause the engine to stall.
The fuel in the carburetor float chambers is boiling while it sits, and flooding the engine. If it has a fuel petcock turn that off, and let the bike stop through fuel starvation. Then there will be no fuel in there to boil.
I,d probably do a compression check on this old girl. sounds like she needs some attention to the top end.The valve stem seals sound like there spent.Oil is seeping past the seals into the combustion chamber and being burnt off,thus explaining the rough idle and white smoke at start-up and dissipating as the engine warms up.Probably time to spend a bit of coin keerossi.Think of it as an exchange, money for thrills.hope i've helped you out a bit....tabby...OZ