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Remove carburettor bowl and the pilot jet is just forward of the main jet and emulsion tube. If pilot jet is blocked either carb clean or strand of electrical wire will clear it then blow out with compressed air. Fuel mixture screw is just forward of float bowl. Start at 1& half turns out from seated.
Hi, you could remove the drain screw from the bottom of the float chamber, this is the lowest Point on the carburettor, however if u are having running problems, the best thing to do would be to remove the carb-s Remove and clean out the float chamber including the main jet pilot jet, and choke tube,
Hi, Jay32769 tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry. Here is how and where you compensate trouble:
1. Your air/fuel mixture ***** manages your idle.
2.. Your slow speed jet manages 0-1/4 throttle opening.
3. Your jet needle c-clip position manages 1/4-3/4 throttle opening.
4. Your main jet manages 3/4-wide open throttle.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues. For more information about your issue, please click on the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day. How to Diagnose Motorcycle Carburetor Problems yamaha FZR 600 carburator doing much better https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/2864660-yamaha-fzr-600-service-repair-manual-pdf OEM parts for Yamaha http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-fz-owners-manuals
these symptoms usually point toward lean on fuel for some reason
most common would be dirty or gummed pilot circuit and pilot jet I would remove carb and take out the pilot jet clean or replace with new - blow compressed air through the hole the pilot jet came out before reinstall
depending what altitude you are a bigger size pilot jet may assist this issue also but clean and replace original pilot jet and circuit first to confirm
You are dealing with Suzuki vacuum carbs, you cannot just replace the air box and re-jet. What you are running into is there is no pressure to raise the diaphragm because there is no restriction to create such vacuum. Either put the stock box back on or go to the biggest main jets you can buy. Sometime even when you get stage 3 jets you still have issues. Vacuum carbs are not made to run with no restrictions.....putting aftermarket exhaust on it will make things much worse.
looks like your carburettor's giving out a rich fuel mix there or you've forgotten to turn off the choke get you carb tuned or jetted for better mileage (at a loss for speed - acceleration & power... if that's not important to you).,,