1992 galant 2.0L, car runs for approx. 30-45mins. then stalls out, and runs on one or two cylinders. We recently changed distributor cap and rotor, and ignition coil. no luck yet! battery is nice and clean with new positive post connector. Any ideas?

check these

compression
idle control valve
maybe clogged injectors
crank angle sensor

hot or cold engine or both?





which engine, to work on one, you need to know what it is

and what EFI system it uses. or its all just a crap shoot.

no new distributor cap and rotor why skip the full tune up,. why?



first questions.

1: can you save the stall with a a fast right foot.

2: why change out pump etc, if fuel pressure is at spec, a $20 tool would have saved you 5 hours hard labor and bath in fuel? why?





Stalls 101.:



the engine can stall for over 50 reasons are you going to do all 50?

surely not. why not consider diagnosis.. as a path.

1: car stalls, right foot saves it. and can drive fast if i keep foot busy.

a: ISC stuck closed.

b: EGR valve stuck open (depends on which engine options)

c: low compression on one or more cylinders.

2: can\'t save it from stalling (right foot)

a: fuel pressure is low. (wires bad.)

b: lost spark, for any reasons.

c: lost 12vdc to the EFI system( killing spark and fueling)



stalls.

hot or cold or both

stalls, can save it or not, hot and cold

hot restarts are easy and it runs good hot,yes./no.



there is lots more to it, then just stalls. lots more.

OVP will not cause it to stall once engine is running. Check the distributor cap and rotor as they often burn out. Coil can fail too.

put number 1 cylinder at top dead center and drop in distributor so the rotor points to number 1 on cap. may have to try several times as gear moves when lowering dist.

Sounds like your Timing Chain or Belt Are Damaged and Caused your Ignition Timing to Jump out of Time, Also check your Distributor Cap and rotor NOTE: if you have a Distributor ,Some are Distributorless. Pull your Spark Plugs out BEFORE you Do Locate #1 Plug its in Front of your Engine.And Trace the Wire to the Distributor Cap. If you have a 4 Cylinder #1 is in the First Plug in front of vehicle, if its a V-6 #1 Plug is on Left side first plug in Front. Depending on which engine you have will determine if your wires go into the Distributor cap Clockwise or Counter Clockwise. So BEST to Simply Mark them to get them back in same order.You'll need to Get the Enging to crank over and have a Buddy Put a Compression Gauge in #1 Cylinder and Bring it up to TDC (Top Dead Center) thats when the piston is up and gets the Gauge to Move up then your on the Compression Stroke, Then check distributor rotor to see if its pointed to where your #1 Spark Plug wire came off or at least close to it.Just hit the Ignition Switch off and on Until you have it showing compression on Gauge. JUST ON and OFF that Fast. If the Rotor is pointing To a different Spark Plug Wire in the Cap, Sounds like timing Jumped. Hope this will help you solve your problem or at least find it. If you don't have or not sure on How to do this i recommend you have a Qualified Mechanic Shop run the Tests. Thanks and Good Luck

hondas of that era are notorius for bad distributors. they tend to fill with engine oil under distributor cap. i would check the distributor cap and rotor before replacment.

P0700------ problem in the transmission control system
P0320------ problem in the ignition/distributor. If equipped with a distributor, change the cap and rotor, probably a good idea to do a tune up, change spark plugs and wires.

remove spark plug for cylinder no#1 rotate engine until cylinder no#1 is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke see where the distributor rotor is pointed match that to your cap.

replace the oil cap and try again you may have to hold it to the floor the first time untill it starts

hi,you my check the distributor cap and rotor clean or replaced if necessary.