Rear brakes and rotors wear out quickly

wonder if the rotors are too slim. If this happens the brakes get too hot as the rotor radiates away the heat. If too hot the brakes could wear out faster.

10,000 miles is about the life expectancy on the rear pads. By failing, do you mean the rotor is warping?

Inspect the wheel hubs for flaws in the rotor mounting surfaces that could prevent rotors from seating properly. Also, check the wheel bearings for slop, roughness or other signs of wear. If the bearing does not rotate smoothly and keep the rotor on center, the rotor will wear unevenly. (Also, pay attention to unusual rumbling sounds when cornering or sudden jerks while braking; these indicate possible wheel bearing problems. The jerking may be caused by the bearing locking up momentarily when the brake changes it load forces.)

Another thing to look at if the problem recurs: take a quick peek at the instrument panel to see if the low traction warning is on. If it is and the road conditions are good, the anti-lock braking system has a false trigger condition. This could be caused by an off-center rotor or a sensor fault. The hard part is identifying which wheel has the problem

The way in which a car has driven has a very direct impact on how long brake pads will last before they have to be replaced. For example, if you spend most of your time driving long distances on the highway, you're using your brakes much less often than in stop and go urban driving. I have seen cars that need brake jobs every 75,000 miles; I've seen similar cars, with different drivers and different driving routines, go 25,000 miles between brake jobs.

I would not be surprised at all if the front brake pads (and possibly rotors) of your Accord needed to be replaced at 60k miles of typical mixed driving. I am, however, somewhat surprised that your rear brakes need service at this point. The front brakes of a car typically provide much more of a car's stopping power than the rear brakes (it's a physics thing), and so they generally wear much more quickly than the rear brakes. All that said, I recently had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors of a 2002 Passat that had only 51,000 miles on the odometer. This car's pads were worn down to the metal, and one of the rotors was badly scored. Upon speaking with the owner of the car, though, things made slightly more sense. First, the car was equipped with a very active ABS braking system, which decreases front wheel braking and increases rear wheel braking depending on road conditions. As a result, the rear brakes of that car were used much more heavily than in the "average" car. Second, and more obviously, the owner admitted to forgetting to release her parking brake several times before driving off, sometimes going several miles before realizing her mistake. The emergency brake system on most cars engages the rear brakes, and driving off with those brakes still on will put a huge amount of wear on those pads in a very short distance.

One final, distant, thought is that it's possible that your rear calipers have gotten "sticky" and are not fully releasing after they have been engaged. Accumulated moisture on the brake pistons and piston channel walls can leave rust spots that hang up piston travel, leading to this condition. At the same time, it would be unusual for both brakes on the same axle to develop this problem at the same time--this typically happens one brake caliper at a time, and you notice the condition when you car begins pulling to one side when you brake or even after you release your brakes.

No you should have from time to time safety checked your motorcycle, brakes are a normal wear part and should have been replaced before the friction material had completely worn off.

Not an unusual problem, no recalls. Replace pads (and rotor, if necessary), but after brakes are bled, loosen the bolt between the rear caliper arm and the swing arm, have someone apply and hold rear brake, tighten bolt. The arm, which holds the caliper in line with the rotor, occasionally loosens and allows misalignment. Checking pad thickness on both sides of the disk regularly will reveal caliper problems if wear is not evenly distributed.

probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.

scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.

but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.

Most of the stopping power goes to the front of the car. You usually go thru two sets or sometimes three sets of front pads before you need to change the rear brakes. It sounds odd the rear brakes need to be replaced at 22,000. havee the front brakes been replaced before?

well from reading of your problem, i am going to say its the calipers again, witch it could very well be, but there is something else it could be, There is a rubber break hoses that come from the hard line to caliper, there like a two way street fluid runs to caliper and back thru same hose, if there is a restriction or if it got kinked at one time it won't let fluid run back to resavor hence breaks don't release all the way and rub rotors and wear out pads. now calipers will do same thing. most of the time if there used and you squees the piston back in, when they come back out, like when you step on the break they will stick and not release or at least all the way and wear pads out prematurly. so my advise to you is this, new break hoses, new calipers and i think it will fix your problem. Hope this will help. OLD.SCHOOL.

The Brembos that come on Type S/Manual models wear fast. I've changed them at 20,000 miles. They are expensive also.

Non-Type S/Manual models I have seen go 80,000 miles. The biggest factor on brake wear is how the vehicle is driven.

At 50,000 miles I would have them inspected. Depending on where you go, make sure you get an accurate measurement of both pads (inboard and outboard). 2mm is the service limit and about that time the indicators start making noise, but not always. Most indepent shops are going to sell you brake pads at 4mm. That's another 10,000 miles at least you could have driven on them.

Never replace just the brake pads, resurface or replace the rotors. The uneven surfaces of the rotor will cause your new pads to wear incorrectly and possibly cause brake noise. Most aftermarket pads will cause a squeel.