I have a 2004 dodge 2500 with automatic transmission. when i take off it has a terrible grinding noise coming from the transmission, what could it be ?

SOURCE: Popping and grinding noise coming from the right front tire.

it depends if you have 2WD or 4WD, probably either your CV joints, or your wheel bearing, also have your upper and lower ball joints looked at, durangos are bad for those going out. 4WD could have additional problems, like transfer case, front axle bent, and other 4WD probs. i had a similar problem and it was my wheel bearing. buy it offline, not at the parts store, it saved me $140. compared to O'riely Auto Parts.

SOURCE: grinding noise in the transfer case

it duse not sound good. sound like your tranfre case is on its way out.but i would have it antillies frist you may have a bad sencer

SOURCE: grinding noise while driving.

Possible causes:

a) a brake disc shield is too close to the disc, and it's coming into contact in the circumstances you outline

b) pebbles stuck between the disc shield and the disk

c) dried out wheel bearings

d) worn Universal Joints in the drive shafts

e) worn A/C pump

f) worn alternator

g) worn water pump

Is the noise still present above 15 miles an hour and past 1500 rpm when the clutch is disengaged (i.e. gearbox in neutral?). The answer to this question may help you to pinpoint the source. I know it's stating the obvious but the fact that you're hearing a grinding sound means it's caused by something that is moving relative to something else. Again this should help narrow down the cause.

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with an automatic

you need a rebuild or a good unit yours is burned up it sounds like check fluid first

joecoolvette

• 5660 Answers
• Posted on Oct 31, 2009

SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear

Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.

Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)

1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.

Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.

This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm

Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)

Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.

The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.

When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.

Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.

This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405

Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.

Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)

Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.

Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')

2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.

Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.

If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.

I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.