It has new reed valves, new carb kits. Ran fine for about 30 min then died when it idled down, restarted but it would only go 25 mph or so, even with the throttle wide open. I'm wondering about the temp sensor - is this some kind of an rpm limiter that can go bad? Anway put some sea foam in the tank, took it back out a few days later - started & idled just fine, when I went to open it up it surged a few times like it was going to take off and then bogged back down..... died..... Is there something in the CDI that would be causing this? It has new plugs, new reed valves, rebuilt carbs, gas tank/lines have been cleaned.....
SOURCE: have a 2000 yamaha XL700 waverunner. Will not
If the waverunner has an electronic "key" lock, it could have gotten tripped. We had this problem happen in the past where everything was fine, then it was tipped over and quickly back up... suddenly it wouldn't start. Used the remote and unlocked it - then it started!
SOURCE: My jet ski bogs down after just a few minutes of
possibly water in your fuel. take a sample in a cup and let it sit see if you see separation of water and fuel
SOURCE: MY 2002 YAMAHA GP 1200 WILL IDLE FINE AND ALL 3
Try and cover the easy and cheap stuff first. Open up your electronics box first so any condensation/moisture can dry out. Moisture or condensation in the box can cause intermittent /bad running and be very hard to diagnose. I have purchased several very good, inexpensive ski's that just had moisture effecting the electronics.
Next, disassemble the carburetors. There may be enough room in your machine that you can take off the covers one at a time to check this with out having to remove the whole carburetor rack. If the diaphragm side of the carburetor with the teeter-totter needle set up can be accessed easily. Lay a clean white sheet under the carburetor rack and carefully take the tops off, clean the white corrosion out of the needles on the low corner of the carburetors and replace the needles if worn. Be careful not to stretch or alter the springs. After cleaning, carefully reassemble the carburetor tops and close the electronics box putting a thin film of grease on the o-ring. With any luck the quick corrosion clean and electronics box dry out should take care of your running issues.
SOURCE: tohatsu outboard 15hp 2 stroke was running great,
First: with flashlight or mirror look down the carb- with switch off- and gear and throttle wide open and see what the butterfly valve inside there is doing. It should be parallel to the air flow.
If not you need to find the actuator am and be sure it moves with the control and opens all the way.
Next make sure the timing plate under the flywheel moves at the same time the throttle is opened. Then -using timing light- see if the timing is set to the correct "wide Open throttle" - this is a 2 man job done at sunset with good marks on the flywheel (don't wear a tie). This can also be done static by running it out of gas and using the pull cord- if it has no safety interlock.
Last- and the saddest part- is the compression test. The strength of the reading is not as important as the similarity. When I worked on Chryslers, they were bad if the two readings were as little as 8# apart. The minimum reading should be over 80#.
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It idles just fine till you get out past the no wake zone.... then when you try to open it up it surges now and then but won't really take off.... sometimes just goes along slow, sometimes dies. It just won't run with the throttle over 1/2 open.
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