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the clutch is dragging then,i bet it also goes into neutral when the engine isnt running easily ? if it has a hydraulic clutch bleed it if its a cable clutch adjust it so there is 2 mm free play at the lever and if its still dragging it coukd either be a grooved clutch basket or warped clutch metal plates.
perhaps you're looking at early signs of clutch wear. DO NOT be driving it util you accomplish an adjustment. Even though you may not realize it, it may be slipping at low gears, only detectable in high gear when it's under it's greatest load. Adjust your cable at either end, you should have about 1/4 inch free play to be sure the clutch is completely out, and it shouldn't creep or be difficult to shift out of neutral. It's an educated "feel" thing, you'll never go wrong spending a couple bucks and buying a service manual which lays it out step by step.
clutch is out of adjustment. When you shifted down did you speed shift down or use the clutch. Maybe then clutch cable broke, or even worse internal clutch damage or bent shifting fork. If you can shift thru all your gears than shifting forks good. Than its a clutch only problem. But still can be internal damage. Good luck
It sounds like you may have two problems. The not shifting problem sounds like the shifter pawl is giving you a problem. The revving but not speeding up is the clutch slipping. You may be able to fix the clutch slippage problem with a simple adjustment of the clutch. The shifter pawl is a bit more difficult. If you need clutch plates in the clutch, you'll need a special tool to disassemble and reassemble the clutch. The shifter pawl is located in the primary right behind the clutch assembly.
If you are using an automotive oil , it may be causing the issue. You can use
any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold
climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different
additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not
use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label .
It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If
you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift
easier. At 1300 km you should have no problem switching over to full synthetic motor oil. I drive a 1976 GL1000 Goldwing and have similar shifting problems unless I use a full synthetic motorcycle oil . The problem is most noticeable in hot weather and just after getting off the freeway and onto city streets. Normal clutch problems on a cable clutch would be slippage caused by a binding cable, a worn clutch, or a cable set too tight.
Nice bike. The problem with flappy or loose shifters can be caused by worn out shifter linkages. These are ball joints connected to a rod which enable play forward or backward. You mentioned an excessive play, I suggest you replace these shift linkages, make the necessary adjustments and you'll be surprised how responsive your shifter will be.
I highly suggest you check on this part first before proceeding with transmission problems.
Other related concerns relating to poor shifting: -Clutch release -clutch spring adjustment (center of the clutch cage)
Two things: first, if there's too much free play at the clutch lever, the clutch won't fully disengage and neutral will be hard to get into. Adjust the clutch cable so that there's only about 1/4" of free play at the tip of the clutch lever. Then, when was the last oil change done? If the oil is dirty, or a low quality oil is used in the engine it will have a dramatic effect on how well the transmission shifts. Try changing the oil and be sure to use the type and viscosity called for in the owner's manual.
If it is difficult to get into first gear when stopped then there might be a problem with the clutch. You should have about 10mm of free end play when the clutch lever is out. If it has more than 10mm of free play the clutch is not completely disengauging when you pull in the clutch lever. If the clutch lever is okay then it is remotely possible that you have bent shift forks. If so, they must be replaced not straightened.
Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.