What is the output in watts or amps of charging system?
I would like to add a couple of driving lights to improve visibility at night and was wondering if the charging system would be capable of carrying another 110 watts or roughly 8.5 amps at 13 volts comfortably or if it would cook the windings or regulator. Thanks. John
Re: What is the output in watts or amps of charging...
The charging system is usually in amps. Consult your dealer or find the service amp output of the generator or alternator and determine the amp draw you are using now, then add the 8.5 amps to it. For service live, do not exceed the standard rating. Good luck, shag79
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You need to add up all of the loads connected to the inverter. A 120watt load at 120 volts equals a load of 10 amps at 12 volts.
Add to that any other load on the battery - radio, lights, etc. and the standard vehicle battery will be dead in a short time. You need to either have a bank of large batteries, such as two or three group 27 batteries in parallel, or you need to keep the van running so the alternator can keep the battery charged.
Improving the output of the light will only increase the light ahead of you. Having the light spread out wider will require a lense with different angles to spread out the light. If you could find a BOSCH replacement light for your bike, that would be an upgrade other wise, have you considered auxiliary lights? HID lights provide lots of light and the current draw on the electrical system is about 40-50 percent less than that of regular incandecant bulbs. Hope this helps.
The Hifonics Brutus 2100 is stated to produce 2100 watts RMS @ 1ohm load. Most amplifier manufacturers overstate their claims. The 2100 watt output is most likely at 14.4 volts and not the 12.6 volts your car will actually be providing the amp.
But, even if the actual output was 2100 watts that would be 1050 watts to each 12w7. The 12w7's are rated at 1000watts RMS and 2000watts peak. As a MECP certified installer, any system I have done using 12w7's have had a MINIMUM of 1000 watts being provided to each speaker. My personal preference is to run 1500 watts each and keep the gains adjusted lower on the amp. Thus allowing the amp to run cooler and allow the additional headroom for those "show-off" moments!
Thermal issue is shutting down amps till temps moderate. You must be driving your system too hard. And check out your tone control settings especially the bass. Every 3 db boost forces amp to double power at that frequency so if you are already blasting at 100 watts, a 3 db boost will compel amp to put out 200 watts, etc. Very easy to overdrive and overheat amp. You might want to try blowing air over output stages to improve cooling at high volume levels.
You are lucky that you have good protection circuits - otherwise by now you would have blown the output stages.
According to the specs for the xo 1945- the output is; 50W x 4 Max Power Output , and I do not see a pre amp output listed. So I think to connect subs, you will need a separate AMP.
The way this works; the rear speaker wires from the xo 1945 hook into the Add-on amp, for example a 4 channel amp. In a 4 channel amp, the rear speakers come off two of the channels of the add-on, and the subs come off the other two channels. There is also the option of bridging two channels for more output power to ONE sub.
You did not mention what size sub(s) you were thinking of adding, but keep in mind that the ox 1945 puts 50 watts MAX per channel. So, if you add two 12" subs and a 1500 watt amp to drive them, your total sound is going to be very uneven.
If you go on line and look up auto audio or amps, you'll get a good idea of all the Sub and amp options that are available.... Hope this helps.
1. your charging system is your only limitation for watts but you can add plenty without upgrading it. i'd say 1,000 watts max on the stock batter and alternator with large power and ground cables of at least 4 gauge.
2. yes. using your subwoofer rca outputs.
3. for a subwoofer you should always ad an amp. i'd say a 3-400 watt amp is fine to match up with you kenwood speakers. you will need a small sub to fit in there or maybe one slim enclosure behind each seat with slim 8" subs
Check the physical condition of subwoofer to make sure that the surround has not rotted out or been blown away. If ok, then using an ohm meter check for the nominal speaker voice coil resistance to make sure it is within spec. If both of these areas are good then you have destroyed the output stages of the amp(s) driving them. Every 3 db of bass boost doubles the output power. So if you are blasting along at 100 watts and you jack up bass by just 3 db the amp now has to put out 200 at those lower frequencies; go up by just 6 db and you are now talking 400 watts! And what does that do to an amp when you over drive it? You guessed it!