2001 wide glide not charging

Check charging system... votage regulator, alternator, fuses, etc.

The voltage at the battery with engine running should be >13.5 VDC. Any reading less than 12.7VDC means the engine is running on battery, i.e. failed charging system.

the alternator or the voltage regulator

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. All voltage readings will be on the DC scale except for Stator Output which will be AC you will need a multi-meter to conduct the following tests. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector in the charging system with the engine running!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9.6 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded with a clean tight connection, then check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on your system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers or the reading is 15 volts or higher replace the voltage regulator.
4. Faulty regulator diodes can allow excessive amounts of voltage to go back to the battery causing it to overheat, boil its contents and swell the casing. The excessive voltage will also spike the charging system allowing light bulbs to surge brighter than normal until they fail along with the main circuit breaker.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to the ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/1288534-strange-charging-problem-on-dyna-wide-glide.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/hh3x4sz8742qq26/2010+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdf
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/wide-glide-2010-owners-manual-66625
https://www.6ya.com/ to speak to me personally

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. All voltage readings will be on the DC scale except for Stator Output which will be AC you will need a multi-meter to conduct the following tests. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector in the charging system with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9.6 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded with a clean tight connection, then check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on your system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers or the reading is 15 volts or higher replace the voltage regulator.
4. Faulty regulator diodes can allow excessive amounts of voltage going back to the battery causing it to overheat, boil its contents and swell the casing. The excessive voltage will also spike the charging system allowing light bulbs to surge brighter than normal until they fail along with the main circuit breaker.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to the ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/2002-dyna-wide-glide-not-charging.171988/
http://www.mediafire.com/file/n32mo9rud2vadf4/2002_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Check the voltage regulator and the stator.

Hi, Sinnercyles this is the sort of electrical problem that is probably mechanical. In other words, a complete failure like this suggests there is a break in the wiring or a blown fuse. If nothing on the bike is working, but the battery is fully charged, there are not many parts of the bike that can cause that lack of power. I can only recommend starting at the battery and working your way along with the wiring, checking every connection, including the ignition switch. There is probably a broken connection or failed electrical part that should be obvious when you come across it.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://hdbitchin.com/index.php?topic=4913.0
http://www.mediafire.com/file/65e9i0e80baqvhz/Harley-Davidson_Dyna_Service_Manual_2003.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Something is wrong if that's the reading you're getting. First,you must have a fully charged battery in your bike or you'll get erroneous readings on your meter. Then, start the bike and bring it to a high idle. After about a minute, check the voltage at the battery. You should have between 14.5 and 15.0 volts.

If not, you need to check you altenator's stator output. Look on the front of your engine and find the plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine. Unplug this connection and look down into the engine side of the plug. You'll see two metal contacts. This is where we're going to measure the voltage from the stator. Put you meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and again bring it to a high idle. Put one meter lead on one contact in the plug and the other lead on the other contact. I doesn't matter which lead goes where as long as they don't touch each other or the case. You should be reading 30 volts or higher.

Now, if you don't have the 30 volts from the alternator, your stator is bad. If you do have 30 volts or higher but low voltage at the battery, odds are your regulator is bad. Make sure the regulator has a good frame ground. I usually put a "star" type lockwasher between the regulator and the frame on the mounting bolts.

Good Luck
Steve

Instead of a blind suspicion it will be good to have the confirmation done on the bike charging system. Use a multimeter to check the voltage with the engine reved. The voltage must go up to stay above the level of the battery voltage. If so the alternator should be good, if not the alternator votage ( AC)and the rectification/regulation must be checked. Once the battery charge is establised the battery drain current must be checke on switch OFF. Check if there is any stray voltage reducing the voltage, if so trace to find / disconnect the suspected circuit.

you have caused a wireing fult thats all, it likely to be a bad earth on the bars or you may have blown a fuse by shorting some thing out when you were doing the work start checking the wireing out with a meeter start from the regulator you should have volts from there back to the battery check for a main fuse as well

Have your alternator checked.