Hello, Yes on the inch and 16th nut will be a dent place on it!! Straighten it out, so it will come off! This nut will be tight, I use air tools on this, but it will come off with 1/2 drive breaker bar. Lock the back brakes. After u get the nut off, sometimes it takes a puller to get the hub off!! Next remove the rear knuckle 2 bolts and nuts right behind the hub, then grab the axle pull it straight out of the differential. Sometimes u have to pull hard to get the axles out. Next take off locking tabs on the boot,and slide boot to middle of axle, then wipe inner edge of the inboard joint. Then remove the retaining ring from the groove. Disassemble the CV joint, and watch the bearings they can fall out. Next u will find a snap ring on the shaft, remove it and remove bearing assembly.reverse the steps and put back togather. I hope this helps
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
Before we get to putting it the Belt back on... Look at the alignment of the Pulleys. Most times the Tensioner or Idle Pulley are "canted" - meaning pitched or leaning forward, which causes the belt to "run off" the pulley - throwing the belt. With the Belt off: check side-to side play for each one of the Pulleys by hand, especially for the Tensioner and Idle Pulleys. There should not be any side-to side play. If there is any other Pulleys that are canted - check if they are properly tightened. A new belt should not have come off on it's own without some other problem.
GENERAL/Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with a Tensioner: A. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link) B. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. C. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. D. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with Tensioners: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Regarding the Strip Lug -Studs. Is this on the wheels with Rotors (Disc) or Drums? If the tire was not properly mounted, or the Lug Nuts were not properly Torqued; this will cause the Lug Studs (bolts) to be stripped. With the vehicle raised and properly supported by jack stands: For Rotors: Remove the Tire, Brakes (Calipers/Pads) and Rotor, exposing the Wheel Hub (Bearing) Assembly with the Studs fully exposed. Rotate the Wheel Hub to a location where the Lug Studs can be clearly removed FROM THE REAR OF THE WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLY. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lug Studs back thru the Wheel Hub Assembly. Remove the loosened Lug Studs.
For Drums: Raise, support, remove the Tires. Remove the Drums off the Wheel Assembly. Using a impact hammer or mini sledge hammer: Hammer the Lugs back into the drum, removing from inside the Drum
Purchase the new, correct size and length Lug Studs and new Lug Nuts. If the Studs were stripped, most like the Nuts are too. To reinstall the Lug Studs: Purchase an additional two (2) Lug Nut that fits that Lug Stud. Also purchase several Large Heavy Duty Washers that can fit on the the Lug Studs.
Place the Lug Stud back into the Wheel Assembly from the Rear (Rotors) or from inside (Drums). Use High Temp Grease for the area of the Lug Stud Splines that have to be "drawn" into the Wheel Assembly (with Rotors) or into the Drum. After the Lug Studs are "IN" as far as they will go: on the outside place at least two (2) of the Washers on Lug Studs. Use a Lug Nut and tighten as far as possible down-on the Lug Stud as possible. Next: Using an Impact Wrench tighten that Lug Nut down/on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Assembly/Drum. Check the rear of/inside the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. The Heads of the Lug Studs should be firmly against the Wheel Assembly/Drum. If you do not have a Impact Wrench - use at least a 24-in Breaker Bar and Tighten the Lug Nut on, drawing the Lug Stud into the Wheel Hub Assembly/Drum. This takes longer and alot more work, compared to 10-seconds using the Impact Wrench. Repeat as necessary.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.Com!
Remove the tire, and the brake drum. With a suitable punch, and safety glasses on, drive the broken stud towards the center of the car. The stud will push away from you, thru the hub, and fall out. Get the new stud, and poke it thru the now existing hole on the hub. Place a flat washer over the stud, and thread a lug nut onto the stud, and tighten the lugnut until the stud is pulled all of the way into the hub. Remove the lug nut and the washer, and refite the drum and the wheel.
I'll try to help you. If you are having trouble with 3 out of 5 studs on one wheel you may want to go to an autoparts store or Salvage yard to look at the whole hub. Usually a press is used to remove the bolts so you would be taking off the hub anyway. When you pay for 3 bolts and labor you may be better off in a Salvage yard or parts place for a different hub. The rear hub on front wheel drive cars is like a trailer axle. Much simpler to remove mounting bolts and press in new bolt. But if rear has differential(rear wheel drive) it has an axle shaft. Would be easier to grind and drill out broken stud on car. You can draw new bolt into place by placing bolt through a socket and use the wheel nut to draw the bolt into the hub.
Chock the front tires, loosen up the lug nutes on the rear tires, jack the rear end up, uncap the adjuster dust caps on the back of the rear drums, either use a brake spoon or straight blade screwdriver and turn the star adjuster while spinning the wheel until you have no resistance. If this does not work remove the rear tires and hit the sides of the drums with a small sledge hammer or hammer to loosen & break up the rust, When you get movement on the drum, hit it betweeen the studs. Be patient, this may take some time.
You have to remove the tire/wheel assy. remove the brake drum, you will see the spindle with the bolts there. punch out the broken bolts install new buy pushing thru the hole.Find some regular nuts that will fit over the stud, put your new nuts on and tighten up till flush in back.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Loosen all, and remove all but one of the CV joint to stub axle bolts retaining the halfshaft to the transaxle flange. If necessary have an assistant hold the tire, or remove the tire, install two of the lug bolts and have an assistant hold a suitable and sturdy 3 foot (1 meter) prytool between the lug bolts to prevent the axle from spinning.
If not previously removed, remove the front wheels.
Remove the remaining CV joint to stub axle bolt and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle drive flange and support it out of the way. Do NOT let it hang unsupported.
Remove the outer axle hex collar bolt and press the halfshaft out of the hub. A suitable press tool may be necessary, otherwise drive the axle out using a suitable drift.
Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor cable from the brake caliper bracket.
Slide the ABS speed sensor partly out of its mount.
Remove upper control arm pinch bolt and nut, then remove both arms up and out of the steering knuckle.
The slots in the steering knuckle must not be widened. Do NOT loosen any other steering knuckle fasteners, otherwise the axle geometry must be checked.
Tilt the steering knuckle out and to the rear of the vehicle, then remove the halfshaft. If necessary, use a press tool to remove the axle from the hub.
Fig. A threaded plastic guide dowel is included in the vehicle's tool kit. Thread it into place to guide the wheel on the ground Fig. Apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the lug bolts
Fig. The screwdriver handle supplied in the vehicle's tool kit is used to start the lug bolts Fig. Always loosen or tighten the axle nut or bolt with the vehicle on the ground
Install the halfshaft into the wheel hub.
Install the upper control arms into the steering knuckle and tighten to:
Upper steering knuckle pinch bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
Install the wheel and hold it to keep the axle from turning. If necessary have an assistant hold the tire, or with the wheel removed, install two of the lug bolts and have an assistant hold a suitable and sturdy 3 foot (1 meter) prytool between the lug bolts to prevent the axle from spinning.
Attach the inner halfshaft-to-transaxle flange and tighten to:
Inner CV joint-to-transaxle flange:
M8 fasteners: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)M10 fasteners: 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
install the ABS wheel speed sensor, and the sensor cable into the caliper bracket.
If not previously installed, install the wheel without the wheel trim and do not fully tighten the lug bolts.
With the wheels installed and the vehicle on the ground, tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern and then the axle bolt as follows:
Easy. Take wheel and tire off, and remove the brake drum, if it has drum brakes. With a hammer, hit the broken stud until it pops out. Slide the new stud into the hole, and, using some thick washers, screw the lugnut onto the new stud, over the washers. Tighten it until the stud is pulled all of the way in. Easier done with an air wrench, however.