well 99% of posters here, (same squawk)
did all that wrong. (endless posts same acts wrong)
2 ways wrong./ (never scanned the PCM first)
and did not check all fuses next)
The service job done wrong is next)
and last worse yet, did not do step one in all service manuals
on Alternator page, failed to disconnect the nEG lug of the battery first.
doing that wrong blows 1 to 5 fuses, even the 50 to 150 huge fuse
or worse worse, the 120amp fuseable link is blown. (this case)
blowing the up will make the new alt dead 2 ways
1: it can not connect to the battery lug Plus.
2: and worse yet the cluster lamp lies or acts dead. or lies.
xD specifics , reading the service manual to you now
the schematic speaks volumes if you looked
self contained regulator in side ALT, a good dead that.!
wow 5 fuses to blow up
a 60amp fuse blows
120amp fuse blows
the 120 blows if battery is not unplugged first
if blown alterator is now dead. (off line 100%)
t
the 120amp keeps from blowing up a battery if it shorts.*(and they do)
the 120amp also prevents alternator fire when those pesky 3 phase diode packs short out, fires near fuel are never ever fun.
there you go all causes and why.
a volt meter finds all this ,
measure all 5 fuseS see Nhear, 12vdc both ends of fuse or it IS BAD
13v to 15vdc engine running
but your car Alt is dead so voltage is 11 to 12vdc. and discharging fast
JUST ONE $15 METER AND OMG SEE THE TRUTH OF ALL THIS.
FAST/
×