Question about 1999 Ducati ST 2

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ST2 98 Zero clutch lever tension

After adding some dot 4. shell brake fluid into the clutch reservoir, I pumped the clutch lever a few times, wiped the spurt out of my eye, replaced the rubber filler and lid of reservoir and found that I had zero tension in my clutch. None. Nada. Where did I go wrong? And more to the point, what happenned!

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  • vic_browne Nov 24, 2008

    Thank you very much for taking the time to explain everything to me.

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  • 7 Answers

Some how, you must have gotten air into the system. My guess is that when you pulled the lever which shot oil in your eye, the wave in the fluid must have allowed an air bubble into the inlet of the master cylinder right about the time you were releasing the lever. Air compresses, but liquid doesnt, so now when you pull the lever, you are just compressing the air bubble.

The good news is that to fix the problem, you should only have to bleed the system.

Since the air bubble is likely at the top of the line where it meets the master cylinder, I have a tip that may or may not save you some time from the usual bleeding method.


First cover any painted surfaces of the bike with some towels or something because dot 4 will eat paint.

Next, loosen the hydrolic fitting where it meets the master cylinder, then snug it just slightly (your just trying to make it so you can loosen and tighten it repeatedly with ease)

Now, slowly (so it doesnt shoot fluid everywhere, pull the leaver all the way to the handle bar and hold it there.

Next loosen the fitting just enough to let the fluid run out.

Now snug the fitting back up, then release the leaver.

You may have to repeat this severla times, and if that hasnt taken care of the problem, then you will have to go about the usual bleeding procedure which you can find in your service manual.

Dont forget to keep an eye on the fluid level while you do this, and fill it as needed. If you run it out of fluid then you will allow even more air into the system.

Also, clean any dot 4 off of anything it comes in contact with on the bike as soon as possible. If allowed to sit on a painted surface for a long time, it will ruin the paint.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

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2 Answers

How do I bleed the clutch?


Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes, only easier. Take the lid of the clutch master cylinder, on the clutch side. If it's leaking, check for cracks. Also check the rubber seal inside the lid to make sure it is sealing all around the reservoir. With the lid off, pour some DOT 4 fluid into the reservoir, and slowly squeeze the clutch to get some air out of the clutch. When you see only fluid moving back and forth, release the clutch, fill the reservoir to the upper line or a little below the top. Have a rag handy to wipe any overflow, as dot 4 removes paint. Tighten up top of master cylinder, and work clutch until you can feel the back pressure.

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Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!

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Get a syringe without the needle, draw the old fluid from reservoir.....then refill with new fluid from a new container (brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air). Sit the diaphram back on the reservoir so that as you pump lever...fluid doesn't squirt over the side...brake fluid will destroy paint and fairing plastic if not cleaned immediately with warm sudsy water...always have a pail handy when handling brake fluid.
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Dot 3/4 brake fluid is added to the clutch master cylinder on the left handle bar. The left (clutch) handle bar lever is attached to the clutch master cylinder. To add fluid you will have to remove the phillips screws (4 x 12 oval screws) holding the cover on. Be sure to lay plastic over the motorcycle (with a towel or rags over that) to protect the bikes plastic and paint from any DOT 3/4 fluid you may spill during the filling or bleeding process. Caution: brake fluid will brittle and crack expensive Honda plastic.

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1 Answer

I have a2000 royalstar 1300 and i need to bleed the clutch



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Step (9)It's been a couple of years, maybe, and the fluid in the eye of the clutch-side reservoir looks more like mocha java than peachy chardonnay. Time for a flush-and-bleed job on the old hydraulic-clutch system?
Relax. It's a closed hydraulic system, just like the front and rear brakes. But why is the fluid brown (1)? The petroleum-based goo labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4 is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs water. That water eventually turns the fluid brown in a sort of plain-to-see maintenance check. Flat beer means replace the keg. Same deal here.
There are other reasons to give a hydraulic clutch some attention. Is the level in the reservoir going down quickly? Check the seal around the actuator. This guy lives in a tough environment--with the rubber O-ring that seals the slave cylinder contending with engine heat, road grime, excess chain lube and myriad other evils. Maybe the engagement point of the clutch moves erratically, or according to changes in the weather. Before you buy new clutch plates, check the actuating system.
Let's get on with it, then. You don't want more crummy DOT 3 or DOT 4 running through the system, so carefully evacuate the reservoir (2). We use those cheap nasal aspirators--parents know to look for these between the tippy cups and the Bag Balm--to **** out the goop. Then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid (3). Check the condition of the brake fluid you're using, too. Fluid left sitting in a previously opened container can be as contaminated as what you're trying to replace. So splurge: buy a new bottle.
Shift your attention to the slave cylinder. Sling your box-end wrench over the bleeder nipple and attach a length of clear plastic hose (4). Drop the free end of the hose in a suitable container (5).
Reach up and pump the clutch lever two or three times and then hold it to the bar (6). Crack the fitting (7); open it just enough to allow the fluid to move into the hose. It may take some time to know when to close the bleeder screw again. Unlike a brake system, there'll be no feedback at the lever to let you know when line pressure drops. Watch the hose carefully and close the bleeder an instant before you think the fluid will stop moving. If you don't, air bubbles and assorted grunge can be dragged back into the system through the bleeder.
Continue watching the hose until you see a change in the color of the fluid (8). Sometimes it's subtle--at least it will be if you haven't let this job go for too long. Keep bleeding the system in steps. Grip the clutch lever and pump two or three times, crack the bleeder screw, watch the line for bubbles, then close. Rinse and repeat for a healthy, shiny coat.
Track fluid level in the reservoir throughout the procedure. **** air into the system now and you've got to start all over again. Once all the old fluid and air bubbles are gone, fill the reservoir according to the markings (9). Because it's possible for the clutch lever to feel firm with air in the system, which will not allow the clutch to fully disengage, test your work by putting the bike in gear with the engine off. See if the clutch disengages enough to let the bike roll slightly. Wet clutches are grippy until the engine is running, but you should still be able to feel the difference. Finally, make double-sure the bleeder fitting is tight and you've cleaned up any spilled fluid because DOT 3 and DOT 4 are corrosive.
Source: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0306_hydraulic_clutch_service/index.html

You can also attach a plastic tube to the bleed line and fill a cup/glass/Jar with the Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. This way you can pump the clutch slowly to rid the system of air bubbles. Make sure the reservoir does not **** air! As stated above or you will have to start the process over.

Good luck!

Oct 05, 2009 | 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

1 Answer

How to change the brake fluid in a yamaha xvz


Keep filling the master cylinder fluid reservoir with new brake fluid of the right type. ( DOT 3, DOT 4, Dot 5 ) Put a hose, of the right size, on the bleed screw and put the end in a jar. Pump the brake handle or pedal several times and then hold it on. Open the bleed screw, on the caliper, and fluid mixed with air will come out. Close the screw, pump it up again and repeat the process. Keep it up until you have a firm feel to the lever and no air in the brake fluid coming out. Lastly hose everything off with water to remove any trace of brake fluid.
  • Be patient, keep bleeding the system... this may take quite a while.
  • Even after lots of effort, the brakes can feel spongy. This can be from old brake lines which are expanding just a bit. The cure is new lines.

    Sep 28, 2009 | Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe Motorcycles

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