After adding some dot 4. shell brake fluid into the clutch reservoir, I pumped the clutch lever a few times, wiped the spurt out of my eye, replaced the rubber filler and lid of reservoir and found that I had zero tension in my clutch. None. Nada. Where did I go wrong? And more to the point, what happenned!
Some how, you must have gotten air into the system. My guess is that when you pulled the lever which shot oil in your eye, the wave in the fluid must have allowed an air bubble into the inlet of the master cylinder right about the time you were releasing the lever. Air compresses, but liquid doesnt, so now when you pull the lever, you are just compressing the air bubble.
The good news is that to fix the problem, you should only have to bleed the system.
Since the air bubble is likely at the top of the line where it meets the master cylinder, I have a tip that may or may not save you some time from the usual bleeding method.
First cover any painted surfaces of the bike with some towels or something because dot 4 will eat paint.
Next, loosen the hydrolic fitting where it meets the master cylinder, then snug it just slightly (your just trying to make it so you can loosen and tighten it repeatedly with ease)
Now, slowly (so it doesnt shoot fluid everywhere, pull the leaver all the way to the handle bar and hold it there.
Next loosen the fitting just enough to let the fluid run out.
Now snug the fitting back up, then release the leaver.
You may have to repeat this severla times, and if that hasnt taken care of the problem, then you will have to go about the usual bleeding procedure which you can find in your service manual.
Dont forget to keep an eye on the fluid level while you do this, and fill it as needed. If you run it out of fluid then you will allow even more air into the system.
Also, clean any dot 4 off of anything it comes in contact with on the bike as soon as possible. If allowed to sit on a painted surface for a long time, it will ruin the paint.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes, only easier. Take the lid of the clutch master cylinder, on the clutch side. If it's leaking, check for cracks. Also check the rubber seal inside the lid to make sure it is sealing all around the reservoir. With the lid off, pour some DOT 4 fluid into the reservoir, and slowly squeeze the clutch to get some air out of the clutch. When you see only fluid moving back and forth, release the clutch, fill the reservoir to the upper line or a little below the top. Have a rag handy to wipe any overflow, as dot 4 removes paint. Tighten up top of master cylinder, and work clutch until you can feel the back pressure.
Had this problem about a month ago when I replaced my clutch and brake pipes.
Ensure bike is in upright position and not on side stand. Cover your grips and tank due to fluid spillage.
Use slow motions and pump 10 times depressing the clutch and releasing it fully, before opening nipple. Use only dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. Try by first opening the bleeding nipple, depress clutch, close nipple, release clutch. Do this several times prior to standard bleeding procedure. In my case and I don't know if this was random, but the clutch master's seals collapsed when I removed the pressure in the pipe whilst replacing the clutch and brake pipes. Factory specs say you should replace the brake and clutch pipes every 2 years, so I used braided hoses, they last almost a lifetime in my opinion. It still stays a tedious job bleeding the clutch, so pack a can of patience. In my case I eventually got it right in a unconventional manner. I filled a bleeding bottle(small plastic coke bottle would work fine)with new fluid. I then opened the bleeding nipple (reservoir should be empty when doing this) and gently squeezed fluid through the nipple until it reached the reservoir. This is NOT a recommended procedure as you may damage your master's seal, but I was desperate. After reservoir is full, bleed clutch using standard operating procedure and with a bit of luck you will be having clutch. Hope this helps!
STRIP THE COVER OFF THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE AND SEE IF THE INTERNAL PISTON OPERATES WHEN YOU PRESS THE LEVER AND RETURNS WHEN YOU LET IT GO IF ITS OK STRIP THE CLUTCH AND CHECK ALL THE PLATES THEY MIGHT BE STUCK TOGETHER CAUSING THE PROBLEM.
You probably need to bleed the sytem. Might as well start with fresh fluid.
Get a syringe without the needle, draw the old fluid from reservoir.....then refill with new fluid from a new container (brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air). Sit the diaphram back on the reservoir so that as you pump lever...fluid doesn't squirt over the side...brake fluid will destroy paint and fairing plastic if not cleaned immediately with warm sudsy water...always have a pail handy when handling brake fluid.
Find the bleeder bolt on your clutch slave.....on Yamaha its under a rubber flap on left side...Suzuki might be different). Attach a hose to bleeder and route to a waste container.Pump the lever a few times and while holding lever partially in...crack bleeder and squeeze lever to force the old fluid out....close bleeder, release lever....repeat the bleeding until new clear bubble free fluid is exiting. Monitor the reservoir level as you push out the old fluid and replenish as needed...if you run it empty...you will be fighting to rid the air out for some time.
You want the reservoir level to be about 60% full so it can expand with engine heat, before reinstalling the lid when done.
your clutch will not engage when the piston is pushed in fully, you
probably have air in the slave, the line , or the master cylinder. Place a
piece of plastic and an old towel over the bike to catch any drips.
Remove the top master cylinder cover and take an old, clean, lint free, cotton sock and gently soak up all the old brake fluid in the master reservoir. Place the sock into a used zip lock bag and discard. DO NOT touch the clutch/brake lever or you will draw air onto the system. Now fill the reservoir with DOT 3/4
brake fluid and bleed the slave cylinder. Warning: be careful not to
spill DOT Brake fluid on your paint or plastic.
Place a tube on the bleeder screw (slave cylinder) and loosen the
bleeder screw. now pump the lever to push the air out of the system.
Hint: if you do not have pressure in the master, loosen the brake hose
banjo bolt enough to burp the air out of the master(2 or 3 pumps of the lever). Retighten the banjo
bolt and bleed the rest of the system. Bleeding the system
should restore clutch performance. If you notice fluid leaking from the
master or slave cylinder , replace the o-rings in the slave cylinder
piston and rebuild the master cylinder. A master cylinder kit and slave
cylinder o-rings are available at your local Honda dealer.
Keep the bike upright and place the handlebars straight. Check the clutch fluid level in the reservoir. If it's below the lower mark, take the cap off and fill it to the upper level. Use D.O.T. 3 or 4 brake fluid. If this doesn't solve the problem you may have air bubbles in the line or dirty fluid. If so, make sure the reservoir is at the top level and replace the cap and tighten it back up. Remove the secondary gear cover.(just ahead of the driveshaft) Attach a pipe or hose to the bleeder valve and run the other end into a pan or something similiar so you don't get fluid everywhere.Squeeze and release the clutch lever several times in rapid succession, and squeeze the lever fully without releasing it.Loosen the bleeder valve by turninmg it a quarter of a turn so that the fluid runs into the resepticle; this will remove the tension of the clutch lever causing it to touch the handlebar grip. Then,close the valve,pump and squeeze the lever, and open the valve again. Do this as many times as needed to get the air out of the system and nothing but clear brake fluid running through the line You may have to add fluid to the reservoir during this process. When the air bubbles are gone and the fluid is running clear, top off the reservoir to the upper level. Also, you may know that brake fluid will peel the paint off of your paint job so be careful not to get any on the painted surfaces. If all of this fails, then you probably need new clutches but most likely not. I have an '86 model (same bike) and it still has the original clutches. Hope this helps; John
Dot 3/4 brake fluid is added to the clutch master cylinder on the left handle bar. The left (clutch) handle bar lever is attached to the clutch master cylinder. To add fluid you will have to remove the phillips screws (4 x 12 oval screws) holding the cover on. Be sure to lay plastic over the motorcycle (with a towel or rags over that) to protect the bikes plastic and paint from any DOT 3/4 fluid you may spill during the filling or bleeding process. Caution: brake fluid will brittle and crack expensive Honda plastic.
Just remove the lever, gently pull rubber boot out of the body, take a snap ring pliers,and remove the circlip, and pull the piston out of the body. Use the piston as a reference to install the seals correctly on the new piston. Be sure to take out the screw in the reservoir, remove the reservoir, and clean the fluid return pin hole ( Must Be Clear) , next to the large fluid feeder hole. Also using a dowel covered with a lint free cloth gently wipe out the piston sleeve being careful not to scratch the walls ( Do Not Hone The Master Cylinder or it will be ruined). Coat parts with brake fluid before reassembly in reverse order. Cover bike with plastic and put some old rags under master cylinder. Before tightening brake hose bolt, fill the master cylinder with dot 3/4 brake fluid and pump the lever until the master cylinder is pushing fluid out the end where bolt and hose are loosely connected, now tighten bolt holding the brake line on. This will aid greatly in bleeding the system.
been a couple of years, maybe, and the fluid in the eye of the
clutch-side reservoir looks more like mocha java than peachy
chardonnay. Time for a flush-and-bleed job on the old hydraulic-clutch
system? Relax. It's a closed hydraulic
system, just like the front and rear brakes. But why is the fluid brown
(1)? The petroleum-based goo labeled DOT 3 or DOT 4 is hygroscopic,
which means it absorbs water. That water eventually turns the fluid
brown in a sort of plain-to-see maintenance check. Flat beer means
replace the keg. Same deal here. There are
other reasons to give a hydraulic clutch some attention. Is the level
in the reservoir going down quickly? Check the seal around the
actuator. This guy lives in a tough environment--with the rubber O-ring
that seals the slave cylinder contending with engine heat, road grime,
excess chain lube and myriad other evils. Maybe the engagement point of
the clutch moves erratically, or according to changes in the weather.
Before you buy new clutch plates, check the actuating system. Let's
get on with it, then. You don't want more crummy DOT 3 or DOT 4 running
through the system, so carefully evacuate the reservoir (2). We use
those cheap nasal aspirators--parents know to look for these between
the tippy cups and the Bag Balm--to **** out the goop. Then refill the
reservoir with fresh fluid (3). Check the condition of the brake fluid
you're using, too. Fluid left sitting in a previously opened container
can be as contaminated as what you're trying to replace. So splurge:
buy a new bottle. Shift your attention to
the slave cylinder. Sling your box-end wrench over the bleeder nipple
and attach a length of clear plastic hose (4). Drop the free end of the
hose in a suitable container (5). Reach up
and pump the clutch lever two or three times and then hold it to the
bar (6). Crack the fitting (7); open it just enough to allow the fluid
to move into the hose. It may take some time to know when to close the
bleeder screw again. Unlike a brake system, there'll be no feedback at
the lever to let you know when line pressure drops. Watch the hose
carefully and close the bleeder an instant before you think the fluid
will stop moving. If you don't, air bubbles and assorted grunge can be
dragged back into the system through the bleeder. Continue
watching the hose until you see a change in the color of the fluid (8).
Sometimes it's subtle--at least it will be if you haven't let this job
go for too long. Keep bleeding the system in steps. Grip the clutch
lever and pump two or three times, crack the bleeder screw, watch the
line for bubbles, then close. Rinse and repeat for a healthy, shiny
coat. Track fluid level in the reservoir
throughout the procedure. **** air into the system now and you've got
to start all over again. Once all the old fluid and air bubbles are
gone, fill the reservoir according to the markings (9). Because it's
possible for the clutch lever to feel firm with air in the system,
which will not allow the clutch to fully disengage, test your work by
putting the bike in gear with the engine off. See if the clutch
disengages enough to let the bike roll slightly. Wet clutches are
grippy until the engine is running, but you should still be able to
feel the difference. Finally, make double-sure the bleeder fitting is
tight and you've cleaned up any spilled fluid because DOT 3 and DOT 4
You can also attach a plastic tube to the bleed line and fill a cup/glass/Jar with the Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid. This way you can pump the clutch slowly to rid the system of air bubbles. Make sure the reservoir does not **** air! As stated above or you will have to start the process over.
Keep filling the master cylinder fluid reservoir with new brake fluid of the right type. ( DOT 3, DOT 4, Dot 5 ) Put a hose, of the right size, on the bleed screw and put the end in a jar. Pump the brake handle or pedal several times and then hold it on. Open the bleed screw, on the caliper, and fluid mixed with air will come out. Close the screw, pump it up again and repeat the process. Keep it up until you have a firm feel to the lever and no air in the brake fluid coming out. Lastly hose everything off with water to remove any trace of brake fluid.
Be patient, keep bleeding the system... this may take quite a while.
Even after lots of effort, the brakes can feel spongy. This can be from old brake lines which are expanding just a bit.The cure is new lines.