Question about 1989 kawasaki ZX 10

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Carburetor fuel flow

Rebuilt carbs. Replaced all o-rings and gaskets. When testing with a fuel "iv" bottle (No gas tank), the fuel gushed through and poured out of the airbox side on all carbs. I thought that's easy, I'll replace the valve pins. Now that they are replaced, it flows even worse. I have adjusted the float height to 13mm. While testing, I have not hooked up anything to the carbs. I am running it with only the bare carbs with the vacuum ports covered, no air box. I'm at my wits end to why the fuel is flowing so freely. The bike will run, but very rich. Smoke pouring out of the exhaust. Do I need to hook up all the vacuum lines for it to stop fuel flow and run correctly? What's going on?

Thank You!

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  • johnesmith1 Nov 26, 2008

    Thank you for your input. The only thing left to do is replace the valve pin seats. I hesitate because they are about $30 each times 4, also when I blow through the fuel line and push the valve in and out, it does stop the flow. I tried adding 5mm to the float height to try and stop the flow. The valve almost does not open now and gas still flows. I'm thinking it may be a start up phenomenon. Gas is supposed to flow when it initially fills the bowl. So I'm going to leave the floats high and put it together and run the bike and see what happens. Is there a way to let you know what happens?

    Another thing I can do is test the carb on my EX500 (twin). I have a pair out of the bike on the work bench. It would be easy for me to test them to see if gas gushes out on initial bowl fill.



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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, to your queries:

  • hook up all the vacuum lines - yes or cover/plug all
  • to stop fuel flow - hooking up all the vacuum lines or covering/plugging them would be technically correct but will not stop the flooding/fuel overflow;
  • run correctly - with constant overflow/flooding, it will not run correctly.
To my knowledge, overflow could only be caused by:
  • faulty valve pins, worn out rounded pyramids, necked/indentations on the surface of the rounded pyramid, cracks (rubber type);
  • worn out inlet port;
  • dirt, sand, foreign object lodged against inlet port hole;
  • mis-adjusted floats;
Which would mean, go to do it all over again.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Nov 26, 2008

    Perhaps you can defer if not cancel the purchase of the valve pin seats. Most floats I have worked on tend to stick/lock down on an empty bowl. On the first fillup, there would be delay before they would really float up to close/push the valve pins. One trick I often use is to partially fill each bottom half of the carb (the bowl) before attaching it back to the main body. This of course would mean that the screws would have to be tightened from below. Another is to gently knock on the carb's body while first turning on the fuel ****

    Posting back here would be do, the site would notify me that you have a new comment.



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