How to bleed the brakes after replacing the front caliper

Try bleeding some brake fluid on that side. You may have a blockage. Also check if the rotor is in good condition, it may be warped. Good luck!

If you have tried EVERYTHING, then you should have found the solution by now!.....Just messin' with ya :)

On a more serious note: What you need to do is a RADICAL brake bleeding procedure. You have air trapped in your brake system - most likely in the anti-lock hydraulic control unit if your vehicle is equipped with one.
Here's what to do: Take the top off of your brake master cylinder and make sure is is full to the top with brake fluid. Then go to the RIGHT FRONT wheel and open the bleeder screw on the caliper. Slowly pump the brake about ten times WITHOUT closing the bleeder screw. I know, this goes against the general instructions for brake bleeding which tells you to push the pedal down then open the bleeder screw and hold the pedal to the floor until the bleeder is closed - you will just have to trust me on this one...

Anyway, once the pedal has been pumped about ten times, check the right brake caliper and see if there is a steady flow of fluid running from the bleeder. If not, pump it a few more times. If there IS a steady flow running out, close the bleeder, top off the fluid level in the master cylinder and move to the other side and repeat the process. Once you have the brakes bleeding on their own really good (gravity bleeding - steady flow) THEN close the bleeder screws and give the bleeders a round or two by the conventional method (have a helper to push down and hold the brake pedal while you open, then close the bleeder).

If the pedal is still feeling a little spongy, you may have to also bleed the rear brakes in the same manner, starting with the RIGHT REAR. (Always start with the brake that is the farthest from the master cylinder.)

This should take care of the problem. Let me know if you need further assistance.

First bench bleed the master cylinder. Or if its still on the car do this, have some one pump the pedal hold and open one line,do this three times, move to the next line pump three time hold and open the line. Hows the pedal. getting firmer no go ahead bleed as usual. let me know we can fix this together

Hello Vicno.

Bleeding brakes is easiest done with a helper to push the brake pedal.

If the master cylinder was empty, top it up. Have the helper push gently down the pedal while you crack the line fitting on the master cylinder enough that it allows air to come out. Generally it is a 1/2 to a 3/4 turn off the seat. Close the fitting when the pedal is down and then release the pedal. Continue this until no air is evident. Then do the other line fitting on the master. This operation will get the air out of the master and is easier than pushing air all the way through the system.

Make sure you keep the fluid topped up! If it goes dry you will need to start over.
And use approved brake fluid only! Anything else will ruin the complete system.

Next proceed to bleed the remainder of the system as described below.

If the master cylinder maintained fluid then you will need to go to the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders or calipers. Front brakes will have calipers, rear could be wheel cylinders or calipers, depending on how it was equipped.
Each one will have a screw with a hole in the center. this is the bleed screw. They are usually close to where the main line is attached.

Start at the right rear bleed screw and bleed the same as the master-------crack....push...close...release. Then go to left front bleeder and do the same. Then to left rear, right front.

Have the helper push the pedal hard after you are done bleeding to verify the fittings that were loosened do not leak.

If you would like further advise on this subject, please ask me here in a comment.
Thank you for using FixYa.
KL

Any time the internal pressurizable portion of the brake system is breached, i.e. bad seals, broken lines, replacing ABS or master cylindar or blown out cylindars at the wheel you must bleed all the air out of the system. A proper bleed requires 2 people. one person operates the bleed screws while the other holds the pedal down. The screw operator is in charge they tell the pedal operator when to push. the pedal must not be released until the bleed screw is closed again or it will **** air back into the line.

to bleed the system you top it off with fluid then
Open a single bleed screw. tell the person to press the pedal and hold it. the bleed screw will sputter with air and fluid forced out. close the screw and then tell the person in the vehicle to release the pedal. repeat this as many times as necessary to get a steady stream of fluid with no air out. close the screw and that line is done move to the next. The bleed screws are located in slightly different spots on different cars but they should all be somewhere near the caliper or cylinder on the back side of each wheel. Obviously you can trace the brake lines to them.

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.

1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Normal bleeding procedures should work. there is nothing special about the Bosch twin calipers on the front of the Pacifica.

If you have a friend try the following.

1. with engine running have your friend pump the brakes several times and then push down on the brake pedal with about 20 lbs and hold it down. Now open the bleeder screw on one of the front calipers.
2 The pedal should drop and your friend needs to keep pushing on it and do not let up.
3. Now close the bleeder screw/
4. now have your fiend take his/her foot off the brake pedal.
5. wait 15-30 seconds and repeat. Do the same thing for the other side.
6. Check the fluid level in the resevoir every couple of strokes to keep it at least 2/3 full.
that should do.it.
Be sure to open the bleeder screw at least a full turn because you want a lot of flow rate.

good luck

There is no need to bleed the system unless you opened the lines or the reservoir ran dry. The pedal should stiffen up once the pads have reseated. If you do have to bleed, leave the top on or you will spill fluid. To bleed, have one person pump up the pedal and hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed. Do this repeatedly until no air bubbles come out. Am I making sense?

Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

All you can do is try some wd40 on it and try to work it free, if it won't go, then a new caliper is needed. To bleed the brakes, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, get someone to sit in the car, then when you open the nipple (just crack it), get the person to push the brake pedal down and hold it down. Then close the nipple and release the pedal, repeat this process on both calipers until the pedal becomes right. Becareful when the pedal is pressed that you don't get covered in brake fluid, try and catch it in a container as it is lethal stuff.