Deawoo nubiria 16 16v starts for 15 scound and stops

You don't say how many miles on the motor, if any, since rebuild... With the lack of pertinent information, I'd have to guess that Its either a bad head gasket or the rings are gone.

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1430 Ford: Electric Air Pump Secondary Lincoln: Electric Air Pump Secondary Mazda: Electric Air Pump Secondary Mercury: Electric Air Pump Secondary Toyota: Intake Constrictor CTRL Circuit Open or Short

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1420 Audi: Second Air Injection Valve Circ Electrical Malfunction BMW: Secondary Air Valve Control Circuit Electrical Buick: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Cadillac: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Chevrolet: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Chrysler: Register Resonant Charging 1 (RRC1) Dodge: Register Resonant Charging 1 (RRC1) Ford: Catalyst Temperature Sensor GMC: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Honda: Nox Adsorptive Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Catalytic converter Jeep: Register Resonant Charging 1 (RRC1) Lincoln: Catalyst Temperature Sensor Mazda: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1) Mercedes: AIR Pump Switch over Valve Mercury: Catalyst Temperature Sensor Oldsmobile: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Pontiac: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Saturn: Intake Air Low Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage Subaru: EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Circuit High Input Toyota: SCV Control Circuit Malfunction Volkswagen: Second Air Injection Valve Circ Electrical Malfunction

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1805 Ford: Four wheel drive high indicator circuit failure Lincoln: Four wheel drive high indicator circuit failure Mazda: (4WD) High Indicator Open Circuit Mercury: Four wheel drive high indicator circuit failure Toyota: SB Solenoid Circuit Malfunction

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1152 Audi: Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded BMW: Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1) Ford: Lack Of Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich Jaguar: Lack of H02S-21 switch, sensor indicates rich Land Rover: Oxygen sensor response time bank 2.Short circuit to ground Lincoln: Lack Of Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich Mazda: Lack Of Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich Mercury: Lack Of Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 Switches - Sensor Indicates Rich Subaru: Oxygen sensor range /performance problem (Low) Volkswagen: Bank1, Long Term Fuel Trim, Range 2 Leanness Lower Limit Exceeded Volvo: Oxygen Sensor Front, Bank 2

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1102 Acura: Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Lower Than Expected Comprehensive Audi: Oxygen Sensor Heating Circuit,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to B+ Chrysler: HEV Stop Request Performance Dodge: HEV Stop Request Performance Hyundai: MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input Jeep: HEV Stop Request Performance Kia: Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 Heater Circuit High Input Land Rover: Throttle to air flow plausibility not active.Last occurrence - minimum signal Mazda: Mass Air Flow Sensor In Range But Lower Than Expected Mitsubishi: Traction Control Ventilation Solenoid Circuit Porsche: Heated Oxygen Sensor 1 Ahead Of TWC Heater Short To B+ Saab: Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1, Control Module Input, Current in Pre-Heating Circuit Too High Subaru: Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction Volkswagen: Oxygen Sensor Heating Circuit,Bank1-Sensor1 Short to B+ Volvo: Power Stage Group B

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1011 Saab: Injector Cylinder 1 Shorting To Ground Toyota: OCV for VVTL Open Malfunction (Bank 1)

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1021 Honda: Valve Pause System Stuck On Comprehensive Mitsubishi: OCV OPN. Bank 1 Saab: Injector Cylinder 2 Shorting To Ground Toyota: OCV for VVTL Open Malfunction (Bank 2)

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code P1335 Audi: Engine Torque Monitoring 2 Control Limit Exceeded Buick: CKP Circuit Cadillac: CKP Circuit Chevrolet: CKP Circuit Ford: (EGR) Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance GMC: CKP Circuit Infiniti: CKP Sensor (Ref) Jaguar: CKPS Circuit Malfunction Land Rover: Exhaust gas recirculation position sensor minimum stop performance. Lexus: Igniter Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 (During Engine Running) Lincoln: (EGR) Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance Mazda: (EGR) Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance Mercedes: CKP Sensor Circuit Malfunction, Bank 2 Mercury: (EGR) Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance Oldsmobile: CKP Circuit Pontiac: CKP Circuit Saturn: CKP Circuit Toyota: No CKP Sensor Signal Engine Running Volkswagen: Engine Torque Monitoring 2 Control Limit Exceeded http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/nissan

this could be the air intake box but the description you give suggests a bit more going on , if the smoke is darkgrey to black then there is a good chance the piston rings are worn , this would account for the rattles and lack of power , do a cylinder compression check to make sure the compression is ok then check the valves and seats , if all ok i'd investigate the head gasket,but i hope it is just a blocked air intake , easy to clean remove the lid , either screws or clips , remove the filter then run engine without the filter and see if there is any improvement , keep me posted if you wish

Read the following and follow the instructions for this problem.

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

first check timing . if it:s ok then one or two intake valve is open . use injector cleaner direct remove spark plugs then crank engine for awhile , do it many time then try to start and check if still , need to open cylinder head and graind intake valve . this case some time happen when the ehaust silencer is close make sure the exhaust silencer is ok .

Does the engine immediately stall and shut off right after you start it? Can you keep the engine running by holding down the accelerator pedal a bit? This happened to my Eclipse (MY2000, 2.4L I4), and let me tell you it was an interesting experience trying to keep the engine running at a stop light (by pressing both the brake and the accelerator at the same time). The problem turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve. The valve had failed in my car, so when the car started the IAC valve failed to keep the air intake valve open, so the engine was starved of air and would stall.
The part itself is easily replaceable, it took me about 10-15 minutes after I had located where it was on the engine. The IAC valve sits directly under the throttle body air intake. You'll have to remove the accordion-like air intake hose from the throttle body and it will be right under that opening. Here's a picture I googled up:
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/2624000-2624999/2624765_9_full.jpg
In the image you can see the accordion-like air intake, however this person has a third-party air filter installed. In the image near the top you can see a red cap, right in front of that is where the air intake connects to the throttle body, and right below that connection is where the IAC is. Take the air intake hose off, unbolt the IAC, replace it, then put the air intake hose back on. I also disconnected my battery to clear the ECU so that the car computer could relearn how to idle with the replacement part (in case it became an issue).
Here's the part on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-Control-MD628318-Outlander-Eclipse/dp/B003QWJMVM
Good luck! -Ingo

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

SOUNDS LIKE A VACUM LEAK,POSSIBLY INTAKE GASKET OR VACUM HOSES,GET SOME BERKIBLE 2+2 SPRAY DOWN INTAKES WHERE MEET HEAD AROND THROTTLE BODY AND ALSO EGR VALVE TO MAKE SURE IT ISN'T PARTAILY STUCK OPEN, VACUM LINES AIR INTAKE HOSE BETWEEN THROTTLE BODY AND AIR FLOW METER,ALSO MAKE SURE ITS NOT DRY ROTTED AND SUCKING AIR,THE ENGINE IDLE SHOULD GO UP OR DOWN DEPENDING HOW BIG THE LEAK

hey
there are couple of smoke type.blue smoke is oil, black smoke is fuel, and white smoke is water, if it clears after starting and running a few minutes it's probably your valve guide seals leaking oil down on top of your pistons, causing it to smoke until burned off and foul your plugs.