I have 06 Mercedes c 230 sport compressor, it has idling problem, check engine light:(code says P171 System to Lean Bank 1) ,when the gauge goes lower than ONLY 1000 R PM's, it makes sound in Compressor charger (like loose something inside ) , I put new 02 sensors, cam shaft seals, new oil changed, new air filter, any ideas what may be a problem? Some vacuum lines? Who had exac the same problem?? Thanks a lot ! Paul
SOURCE: cam shaft sensor
It should be at the rear of the head at the end of the camshaft. some are located at the front of the head. Either one, there is a 2 prong plug that goes to it.
SOURCE: CHECK ENGINE CODE P2187 SAYS
i had the same code, p2187. check to the left of the throttle body(side facing the front of the veh.
there are 2 vaccum hoses going into the intake. the larger one on top has a spring clip holding it and if you look under that you'll see a smaller one with a check valve. mine was disconnected. plugs in under the larger one.
SOURCE: Check engine light and air conditioning
I Think I Can,
You Might Be Blending Hot Air With A/C Cold Air And Being 100Deg Outside, Your Getting
Really Warm/Hot Air Inside,
Your System Is Charged w/Freon, The A/C Compressor Is On/Engaged,
There Are 2-Aluminum Tubes Comming From The Compressor, [In & Out Pressure]
1 Tube Will Goto The Front Condensor, Infront Of The Raidator,
The OTHER Tube Comming Out Of The Condensor Will Goto A Dryer,
[Aluminum Looking Cylinder] Bigger Aluminum Tube[s]
The DRYER Will Then Feed Freon To Your Evap-Coil Inside Your Car [Cool-Air],
OK, The Dryer Tube's, 1 Of Them Should Be Cool/Cold, Locate That Tube, A Thermometer
wrapped w/Alum-Foil Around This Tube,
A/C ON, [A/C Compressor Engaged]
If You See The Temp Is Around 50-55 Degree's Or Lower, You Have Cold Air,
If Not, Above That, Low Freon, Or A restriction In The System. [Comes Later]
You Have Cold Air, You Have Warm/Hot Air Inside Car/Vents?
You Are Blending Hot Air w/Cold A/C Air, Problem Is With Heater-A/C Blend Box
Under Dash. There Are 2 Seperate Coils Under The Dash,
1 For Winter/Heat, Other [Evaporator Coil] For A/C, There Is a Diverter/Flapper door
That, For A/C, Closes Off The Heater Coil, Or It Should, To Prevent Engine Hot Water/Heat
From Blending w/ Cold A/C Air.
Most Are Controlled By A Diaphram, Vaccum Controlled From The Heater-A/C Controller
On The Dash.
If You Can Select From Defrost Vent To Dash and Floor Vents, Most Likely you Have
a Bad Diaphram That Controls The Heat-A/C Flapper Valve.
Most Time's You Can Open/Remove The Glove Box And See It,
A Temp Fix, For Cold Air, Would Be Remove The Vaccum Line From That Diaphram,
And Plug It, Pull The Metal Rod Back On The Diaphram with a Needle Nose Pliers,
If you Get Cold Air, Take a Ty-Wrap, Around The Shaft, Secure It, To Keep The
Vent In The Cold Air Position.
Then You Will Have To Get A New Diaphram Installed, Most Time's, Can Be Done
Through The Glove Box Opening.
Now About The Restriction In A System,
You Will Need A Set Of A/C Gauges, Car-Off, A/C Off, Connect Gauges.
IMPORTANT: The Gauges Before Connecting Should Show Pressure In Them [Freon]
Either The Gauges Have Freon In Them Or They Are In A Vaccum.
Otherwise They Have Air In Them, Air w/Freon=BAD Things.
OK, Gauges Show Pressure, Gauges Not Connected To Anything,
Open Up Both Knob's, Blue [Low-Side], Red [High-Side]
Gauges Needles will Move/Equal Out pressure,
BOTH Gauges Should Read Same Pressure, If Not, Quick Fix, Remove Gauge Glass
Covers, Need Little Screwdriver, If Gauges Off By ie: 4 psig,
Adjsut Low-Side [Blue] By 2psig and other, by 2psig, [Split The Difference]
So Now Both Gauges Read IDENTICAL Pressure.
Close Both Valves, Blue & Red
Connect Gauges To Car, Car=Off, A-C=Off
You Will See Pressure On Both Gauges,
Low Side Shuld Be Around 75-95psig, Depending on Outside Temp, If Around 60 or less
need freon.
OK, BOTH Gauges Should Show SAME Pressure reading,
If There Is MORE Than a 4psig Difference Between Them,
There Is A restriction In The System,
a Plugged "Orfice Tube" [Filter] Part Cost $3.00, Servicing The Filter, Alot More.
Restriction Causing Might Be , Moisture/Air in System [Improper Vaccum On System During Last Repairs], Compressor Breaking Down [Metal, Black Goo Bul-up]
Hope You Get Some Cold Air Soon.
SOURCE: Check engine light is on
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty
or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" Air filters may cause the
MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with
some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to
protect the circuitry There could be a vacuum leak downstream
of the MAF sensor In the vast majority of cases, simply
cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's
location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with
electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage
the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses,
replace if necessary Check for a dirty fuel filter and
proper fuel pressure
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