Hi, I just bought a '03 Tuono and the battery was dead so I decide to replace it with a new Yuasa YTX12BS, the bike runs very well for 1 week and then...dead again. I have a battery charger in the office and after a slow charge cycle the bike was on the streets again but now, after 4 days again...dead...what do you recommend me, do I need to replace any other part?, or maybe maintenance?, the bike was garged for a while before I purchase it...thanks for all!.
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Re: battery is not getting charge from the bike
A most likely possibility is the voltage regulator. In some instances, it could just be corroded terminals/connectors. Likewise please check the wires coming from the alternator/stator that goes to the voltage regulator.
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A battery is made up of 6 separate cells 2 volts per hole. Check the water level is at the line with a flashlight held against the opposite side your looking at. Use a specific gravity tester for motorcycles to check for a cell that has gone dead. 5-10 bucks. Remove the ground wire first. Remove the battery and place on a level bench.. Charger must be for motorcycle not car. A new battery must be fully charged the first time or it will never charge fully, amp wise. Just take it to a bike shop and ask them to charge it over night for you. Otherwise buy a solid state bike battery charger from a catalog or shop. Remove all caps including the over flow one on new battery's and attach the long tube with the slits that come with a new battery. If it's empty and comes with a plastic bag of Electralite ( sulfuric acid 50% as all of it is,) use reasonable caution and eye protection. Keep it off clothing. Allow it to settle for an hour after filling. Then recheck the fluid level because the plates will absorb some. They will also release hydrogen gas so do not spark the leads together, it will explode acid and lead at you. Even a dead battery will show 12 volts. Just no amps. The battery should be fitted so no way that the terminals will contact the frame or metal.The terminals that the wires attach to must be original types like the manufacturers. Nothing else is safe. It must also have the proper amp hour rating as you will find on the original serial numbers on the side. Measure the height, width, and front to back across the top as these are what they must be on the replacement as well. Yuasa Batterys are best and most diverse in sizes. Kelly Calk Certified Mechanic
If you got five years out of your battery, you did well with it. The average battery life of a sealed lead acid battery is only two years. They are less expensive than the AGM battery but the AGM is a very good battery. Since you don't have a shelter to keep your bike out of the cold, it would be to your best interest to purchase either a Battery Tender or a Yuasa Smart charger. It will come with a "pig tail" that you connect permanently to your new battery. When you finish your ride, connect the battery charger to your battery. It will maintain your battery at it's optimal charge without "cooking" the battery. It will also extend the life of your battery and your bike will always have a hot ready to go battery in it.
Charge and load test the battery. If the battery sat dead for as little as two weeks , it could be sulfated and no good. If it is a Yuasa battery it only has a 6 month warranty , grab your receipt and race back to the dealer. They will charge and load test it three times . If it does not pass the load test you will get a new battery if it is still under warranty. Grab your voltmeter and unplug the plug with three yellow wires that is coming out of your stator. The three yellow wires coming from the stator should have continuity with each other and no continuity between any of the yellow wires and ground. That is the test for the stator. If the stator is good , the battery is good , then you probably have a bad regulator/rectifier. I suspect you just have a bad battery.
If it died while riding and would not start even with a boost chances are the charging system is not working or the battery is not accepting the charge.
Make sure battery is full of water(distilled and at the upper line in each cell)and charge the battery. Start the bike and use a multi meter and ckeck the voltage at the batery terminalls(red+) (black -) and if the charging system is working you should have between 12.5 and 15 volts. If it is at 12volts or under than you need to look at your charging system. If te system chack out ok @12-15 volts than I would invest in a new battery. I recomend a yuasa battery.
I own the same bike as you and never had an issue with the yuasa ( i won't run anything else)
Sounds very much like the battery will not take a full charge and will need to be replaced. Check the voltage after charging and then again after use. A bike shop should be able to test it for you if you have not got access to a volt meter.
These bikes are notorious for doing this. You must have a good battery to start these engines. I had a '94 VT1100 Shadow and it did the same thing. I bought a new battery and that solved the problem. Take you battery out and take it to an automotive parts house. They'll usually test the battery for you free of charge. Back when I had my Shadow, the only people that made the battery was Yuasa and it was that Yumacron battery. Expensive but it made the bike start well. Good Luck!
Sounds like you need to check your charging system.Battery when engine running alittle over idle should charge at 14.5 volts. If it does not check the output of your stator by testing lead at the regulator rectifier... It may be you have a bad regulator rectifier...
Yuasa batteries are expensive but with good reason. They are extremely high quality and follow the old adage 'you get what you pay for'.
Cheap batteries appear initial good 'value' but the extra investment will pay dividends long-term, if properly maintained, your Yuasa will last many years.
If you suspect the liquid is acid, neutralize it with some baking soda just to be sure. You don't want that dripping onto anything metal or pain, causing damage.
Once you have it neutralized, wash it out with water.
It sounds like you ride infrequently and bike may have periods of serveral weeks on occasion without being ridden.
My recommendation would be to install a quality replacement (like the OEM Yuasa) then purchase a battery maintainer that you can plug in while bike is not being used. Good maintainers are Optimate and Battery Tender. (I have both myself - I really like the Optimate 4.) Both of these come with a waterproof 'pigtail' harness that you can permanently connect to the battery - then when you put the bike away, you can simply connect up to it without having to remove anything.
nada. No gauges no lights absolutely nothing.
All that happens is when I turn the ignition switch off the tach bounces backward quickly about 6 or 8 times.
I put the bike on the battery tender and within 20 minutes it was showing in good shape. Still nothing.
Checked battery leads. No problem.
I checked all the fuses around the battery and up next to the dash.
I R & R'd all of the relays next to the dash and the 3 behind the tool kit with the same relays off of my Mille.
I changed the odd relay next to the battery that says UP on it. Don't know what it is but it rattles. Maybe a tip over sensor?
I tried jumping the bike off with a portable jump start battery.
I switched the battery out.
I pulled the front fairing and checked all connections. Found everything to be just fine.
Put a battery charger on the fully charged battery and suddenly got ignition lights and headlights.
Turned the key back off and once again nothing.
A few more times it would come back and show lights and gauges but when I went to start everything went dead again.
I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch?
It doesn't seem worn out at all. I jiggled the key didn't seem to make a difference. The bike only has about 10k miles on it.
,Some 'friend'... did this ever happen to him?
Good diag work so far, and I don't have anything specific to look at.
Hopefully one of the sm-m-m-marter members can assist.