Question about 1987 Honda GL 1200 Aspencade Gold Wing

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Clutch Hey guys, I replaced my clutch cable...Its adjusted out nearly all the way, and its hard as hell to pull in, and it still wont freewheel, is my clutch close enough to gone then?

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Did you lube your clutch actuator. Don't know if actuator is going to be the name used in "the book" but this is the part that the clutch cable hooks to at the engine. Normally clean it and lube it with a little grease and that'll free up a clutch nicely

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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15 Answers

On my 1987 honda shadow 1100 clutch handle comes almost all the way out before catching can i adjust it or do i need to replace clutch disc or any thing else

while engine is not running follow the clutch cable back to its point of origin & look for any other clutch adjustments besides the the one at the clutch handle if all clutch cable adjustments are backed off & clutch is still slipping its time for a new clutch assy buy a clymers repair manual,

Oct 10, 2014 | 1987 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

Humming noise coming from transmission when its in neutral. push the clutch in and it stops. suppose to be a new clutch also it runs great but if you lift the rear end off the ground the wheels will s

the clutch is dragging.
adjust the clutch cable, better is to replace it these cars
the cable goes bad inside (fray) and causes it to be the clutch from hell, get a new cable, or go nuts, saw 3 guys replace a clutch when its only the silly cable. bad. it must be set with free play.
the whole deal is here.

Apr 06, 2014 | 1994 Geo Tracker

1 Answer

Clutch snapped

adjust cable at both ends

Feb 28, 2014 | 2007 BMW F 800 ST

1 Answer

Ktm 85 egine noise,and just ad topend rebuild

    • 1 Take the motorcycle for at least a fifteen minute test drive. Use this time to determine if the clutch needs to "grab" more or less. For example, if you pull in the clutch lever and it is difficult to shift, it grabs too much. On the other hand, if when you let the clutch lever out the motorcycle is low on power, it is not grabbing enough.
    • 2 Set the motorcycle on its kickstand or, if like some dirt bikes, it does not have one, prop it against a solid object so that it will not fall over while being worked on.
    • 3 Loosen the clutch cable if the clutch needs to "grab" more, via the clutch cable adjuster bolts near the crankcase, until there is a small amount of play in the cable. You should be able to move the clutch lever just slightly with no change in the clutch's actuation.
    • 4 Tighten the clutch cable if you need the clutch to "grab" less. Tighten the cable until there is only a small amount of play left in the cable. Pulling the lever from now on will make a much larger difference in clutch actuation.
    • 5 Tighten the clutch cable adjusters near the crank case and take the motorcycle for a test ride in an open, private area. While riding, use your left hand to adjust the barrel adjuster where the cable housing meets the clutch lever to fine tune the adjustments made previously. When you feel the clutch is set up properly, return to your work area and tighten the barrel adjuster stop so that it will not loosen as you ride.

Jan 16, 2013 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Nutural is very hard to find on my harley 1999 flhtcui

The guy talking about the kind of oil to put in your Harley is brain dead. Dont listen to him an ruin your bike. Best thing to do is call a Harley dealership an talk to them about the kind of oil to use. Im not going to give you my two cents worth but dont ruin your Harley listing to that dummy he knos nothing. Never put car oil in a HARLEY

Aug 27, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hey guys i have a fzr 250 its a 3ln year 1994 i

If your clutch is automatic, then you need to ajust the freeplay.
On your clutch cover you have the small bolt with a screwdriver head, and a locknut.
You loosen the locknut, and then turn the adjuster bolt with a screwdriver clockwise until you feel it stop, now back it of 1/8th of a turn(counterclockwise).
While holding that adjuster bolt in position, tighten the locknut and your freeplay is adjusted.
You should notice a nice smooth shift while riding.

If your clutch is manual, then adjust your clutch cable length at the handlebar.
If the hand lever feels tight after you adjust the cable, thats because you have new clutches & springs. New ones are stiff at first.

If your clutch adjustment is fine from the start, then you have transmission problems and that would have to be inspected to be able to correctly diagnois which part is bad.

It could be just a broke shift arm.

Dec 07, 2010 | Yamaha FZR 250 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do I adjust the clutch? The bike stalls out when I put it gear.

You can try adjusting the clutch cable.
There is a lock ring where the cable meets the clutch handle.
Loosen lock ring then turn the knurled knob in or out depending on your "taste". Typically the shop guys make this adjustment far too tight with little to no play at the top first pull of the handle. Adjust to your comfort zone but try to leave at least a 1/4 inch play when you first pull the clutch handle. You can actually feel the clutch disengage as you pull the handle. Too much and the symptoms you describe appear to the problem now. If the clutch is gone it will need to be replaced and no amount of cable adjustment will help.
Good luck!

Oct 24, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic

1 Answer

The clutch pulls in real hard, i have lubricated the cable and thik the clutch may need to be adjusted and im not sure how to adjust it.

Clutch pull effort is usually alleviated by lubricating the entire cable, adjusting the clutch won't make make the clutch handle any easier to pull, usually. Adjusting the clutch is a semi-delicate procedure that I can not cover in this venue.

Jun 09, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra...

1 Answer

Clutch wont dis engage cant find nuetra;

You either need to adjust your clutch, you have too much oil in your primary, or your throwout bearing has failed.

To adjust the clutch, follow the clutch cable until you find the rubber bellows near the down tubes of the frame. Slide the bellow up or down to gain access to the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the adjuster inwards making the cable as short as possible.

Now, remove the derby cover on the outer primary cover. In the center of the clutch assembly you'll see an adjuster screw and locknut. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster clockwise until you feel a resistance. You don't want to force the adjuster screw as you'll start to release the clutch, go in just until you feel resistance. You may wish to do this several times until you get the feel for it. Once you feel the resistance, back out 1/2 to 1 full turn and lock the locknut. Reinstall the derby cover.

Now, go back to the cable adjuster and adjust the adjuster outward, making the cable longer, until you get about an 1/8" freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the locknut and reposition the bellows. This should allow your clutch to release.

If you have too much oil in your primary, it will cause your clutch to drag and make it impossible to find neutral with the engine running. The oil level should be no higher than the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike standing straight up.

If you're experiencing difficulty shifting through the rest of the gears, You may have lost a throw out bearing. To replace the throwout bearing, you'll have to pull the chrome clutch release cover off the right side of the transmission.

Good Luck

May 26, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra...

2 Answers

Yamaha motorcycle stiff clutch

Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm. Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn.

Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with "special" additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.

A “very helpful” rating on this answer? Thanks!


Jul 01, 2009 | Yamaha DT 125 RE Motorcycles

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