Question about 1991 kawasaki KR-1S

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Cylinder head skim

Hi folks, head was warped. My machinist has skim the head around 0,5mm. After this there was no edge round the combustion chamber an the squish was to less (~0,6mm). i am told him that the squish band must recessed into the head by 0.4mm and angled at 15 degrees. I thought a squish clearance around 1mm is safe. today he has finished the work. ok at home i measure the diameter from the combustion chamber (edge to edge). The diameter is exactly 56mm. Shocked the piston has 55,6mm. my old destroyed head has an combustion camber diameter from ~57,5mm !! ok my questions. why is the diameter from the standard head combustion chamber much bigger then the cylinder bore diameter? can i use the head with 56mm? the head skim was 0,5mm. to much compression now? ok i know... many questions and perhaps some stupid questions. I have a new crank, new coated cylinders and new pistons. i have no interest to destroy the engine with a bad cylinder head.... Pray thanks

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From my understanding, the combustion area of the head should have a diameter that is the same as the cylinder i.e. 56mm. If you took 0.5mm from a standard head, your squish would PROBABLY be Ok, however, you need to measure this. Its quite easy, poke a piece of solder wire in to the cylinder via the spark plug hole and trap it between the piston and the head by gently turning the engine over with the kickstarter by hand. Remove the squashed solder wire and measure with a set of vernier calipers. 0.8mm is about right and as Elf said, anything below this is getting a bit close. Do this for the front, back and left and right of each cylinder. Reducing the squish only has only a moderate effect on the compression ratio and does not require higher octane fule. I did this for mine and it was fine - so you 'should' be Ok.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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How to tell if your head is warped

To PROPERLY remove the head from the engine it is recommended that the reverse pattern used for head assembly (bolt tightening & torquing) be used.

With a machinists rule (perfect straight edge) visually check length-wise, across and diagonally across the clean surfaces that there is no concave or convex surfaces which are intended to fully mate with the block.

Minor variances can be removed by having the head PROFESSIONALLY resurfaced.

Dec 20, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I'm looking to purchase a used car. I've been doing online research and saw this webpage . They talk about exhaust color and smells. Is it true that you could tell a lot about...

Yes this is correct, you can get important information from the colour of smoke from the exhaust:

Blue/Gray Smoke: Blue/gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:
Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shuts down.
Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.
Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of a rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:
Fuel Injectors: A leaking or dripping fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.
White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.

Jan 17, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

White smoke comes from tailpies while excelling traffic light.

Is it a lot of white smoke? White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.

Although for some cars white smoke is normal, as long as it is not super excessive.

Oct 17, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is affected when a car has overheated, I changed the gasket and skimmed the cylinder head

There are several items that are affected during overheating. If the engine has been running for a period then the pistons loose metal to the cylinder walls and cause a knock or rattle when started and run. Next the rings loose tension and will not work as designed. Excessive blow by --low compression and they may be broken. Rust scale that is around the cooling jackets comes loose and deposits in the cores of the radiator causing blockage and further over heating. Cracks can be found in the combustion chambers . The valve seat inserts in the head can be cracked or become loose. The head studs loose the tensile strength and stretch an should be replaced . If the engine has simply boiled and the engine was shut down immediately then the gasket and head shave should suffice but most engines run for some time without water before the driver smells or notices the overheat condition.

Sep 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Pajero DI-D dakkar with problem rough run, white smoke at low rpm and low engine temperature

White smoke indicates usually a bad head gasket or worse a cracked head. The gasket is allowing water from the radiator to seep into a combustion chamber and be turned into steam as it exits the exhaust. Check your radiator levels to see if they are dropping and check oil to see if there is a milky substance. If you recently overheated your vehicle, you most likely damaged the head gasket and it will need to be replaced as soon as possible. If this is the problem, the head should be checked for warping by a machinist and re-shaved if it has warped.
Do a compression check to locate the cylinders taking in water.
White exhaust=water in combustion chamber
Blueish exhaust=oil burning
Black exhaust=rich fuel mixture

Aug 27, 2013 | Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks

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I have a 2000 KIA Sportgage SUV. and the fluid come out as fast as I can put it it the rear freeze plug.

you already got warped cylinder head,compression from combustion chambers already have paths tru your water jacket and that's the cause water goes out just as you pour in.. need for cylinder head resurfacing or replace new head assembly..

Sep 17, 2012 | 1996 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Expansion bottle filling with oil

Water ways and oil ways are never in contact with each other in normal circumstances. The usual reason for your problem is that the cylinder head gasket has failed allowing a gap in the gasket to allow water and oil to come into contact with each other. I imagine there is a high probability that there is also water in the oil (Take the oil filler cap off, you will probably find white/grey emulsified oil in the top of the cap).

Sorry to say this is pretty bad news, you probably find that the vehicle is losing power too, as one or more of the cylinders will be compromised (Symptom: Engine "Missing" misfiring on one or more cylinders). Other classic signs are excessive white smoke from the exhaust as a consequence of water and or oil getting into the combustion chambers.

This will almost certainly be the case, requiring the cylinder head to be removed and the gasket replaced. It's likely that this is the result of an overheat of the engine at some stage. If you have an aluminium head, there is also a high probablinty that the head may have warped and it may need skimming before it is re-fitted

Jul 25, 2011 | Chrysler Town & Country Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The car overheated and has,nt started since

You may have blown the head gasket. An 'OVERheat condition' can cause the engine head to 'warp' and burn the gasket causing combustion chamber leakage between two or more cylinders (lost compression). In order for the engine to 'RUN', it must be able to 'COMPRESS' the air-fuel mixture to get ignition/combustion to produce the power stroke.

A compression test and/or a 'leak-down' test would reveal this (if in fact this has occurred). If it hasn't, something else is causing the 'NO START' condition.

Mar 23, 2011 | 2000 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

Keeps overheating after i have already changed water pump, thermostat, an having radiator flush an new heater lines

Make sure the radiator fan cycles when vehicle reaches about 220 degrees, if not replace the electric radiator fan and relay. The fan relay sits below the passenger headlamp. If that is working correctly you may have a cracked or warped cylinder head. Most shops can do a chemical test to the coolant system to check for combustion chamber gasses from cracked heads, the only drawback is that this test only tests for combustion gasses and doesnt usually show when the head has cracks between coolant passages

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3 Answers

Hello, I have a 2001 ford mustang gt. At times when I first start it up some white smoke is coming out of both exhaust pipes. I took it to my mechanic and he said it it probably oil getting in the...

white smoke is coolant leaking into the combustion chamber

blue-ish smoke is oil in the combustion chamber

black smoke is excessive fuel (running rich)

If it is white smoke, pull the oil dipstick and check to make sure your not getting coolant in your oil.
If thats okay check the compression on each cylinder to make sure your head gasket isn't leaking.

if your car is burning oil, you may need to replace your PCV valve(about $5).
As far as oil additives, try RESTORE

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