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Re: k1 fuel line
Cant remember, probly 6mm, but use spring things (goes without saying).
Make them nice and long too - as previously mentioned, if you are leaned over to the right for long enough on a low tank the lines can run dry. The left line is shorter and its usually left pot that pops, coincidence? This probly only matters on track though, where you get a long enough corner.
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There is two or three sizes of vacuum line in common use. Some is synthetic rubber and some is neoprene and some is polyurethane.
Mostly it tends to be replaced with whatever is available and pressing fuel hose into service is not unusual, though sometimes a hose with a specially moulded end or branch is used or a double-diameter type which must be obtained as a spare part from the dealer.
Vacuum line, hose or pipe is generally unreinforced with a fairly thick wall and a common internal bore of 2.5mm, 3.0mm or 4.0mm though other sizes exist, mainly in the Imperial size range.
The bore size can be checked with a drill bit or machine screw...
There are two types of vacuum spigots the hose is fitted to. One is straight and the hose size should be selected so it stretches only between 0.25 and 0.5 mm. The other spigot has a swaged end and the hose should be chosen that closely matches the shank diameter.
If you are asking what size Allen wrench you need to loosen/tighten the handlebars, you are most likely looking at a 5mm. In rare instances, it could be a 6mm or 4mm. As a cyclist, those three sizes are good to have as they correspond to 90% of the bolts on your bicycle.
According to Randy Duncan Ebay site(Randy's Engine Repair) the fuel line is 3/32" inner diameter and 3/16" outer diameter for the non-primer bulb side of things for a McCulloch chain saw. It is a common size, apparently, but is not listed in the User manual as such.
It's not that hard. Fuel line replacement is necessary on these periodically. You have to make sure you get the proper size replacement lines. Small engine repair shops sell the 2 different size "Tygon" fuel lines your unit will need. You might as well replace the fuel filter also. Fuel line sells for about $1.00 / foot or so. The filter is inexpensive also. If you can turn the unit at an angle with the cap off or even upside down, the loose fuel filter line should fall down near the filler neck and you can grab it with long tweezers or needle nosed pliars or what have you. The fuel return line is sometimes held in place in the tank with a small nylon connector, so you will have to push it through the bottom of the tank and then fish it out after removing it from the primer bulb or the carburetor. Here is a synopsis of fuel line routing if you take on the job. The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so.
the center fitting on the fuel pump is for the evap hose. It will have a different connector than the two fuel hoses.
The fuel pressure hose is the larger diameter. The return line is the smaller diameter. If you look carefully at the two outside fittings on the fuel pump module you will notice they are two different sizes. The return line will only fit on the smaller diameter fitting.
The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two fuel lines, goes from
the carburetor to the bottom of the tank. Leave enough slack in this
line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank.
fuel line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank,
(about an inch). make sure that you get the right size fuel lines. The
plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This
keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
(HINT): When feeding the lines through the tank holes, cut the lines at an
angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them
off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.
You probably have found the solution by now I would assume... TB won't tell you this because they want you to buy their stuff..
You probably are looking at the 0.08" diameter that's just a bit smaller than the 3/32". Hope this helps....
Replaced my fuel lines on poulan 2050 today. The large diameter line is a return line from the primer to the tank. The smaller diameter line is the supply line from the tank to the carb. You need to cut this line and run a second piece of small diameter line from the card to the primer. I'm not sure if it makes a difference which of the two stems on the carb is the inlet or outlet line. I used the top stem as the inlet, and connected the bottom stem to the primer. My chainsaw started right up. So I either got lucky or maybe it doesn't matter.