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Re: k1 fuel line
Cant remember, probly 6mm, but use spring things (goes without saying).
Make them nice and long too - as previously mentioned, if you are leaned over to the right for long enough on a low tank the lines can run dry. The left line is shorter and its usually left pot that pops, coincidence? This probly only matters on track though, where you get a long enough corner.
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fuel pressure leak possibly. grab some carb cleaner or wd40......with bike idling, spray around the intake gaskets. If the idle changes, you need to replace the intake gaskets. I wouldnt think it would happen to an '09 yet but do a pressure test on the fuel system. If not mistaken, it should be above 50psi. If low..........grab an owners manual........but first....
are you seeing any codes? engine light coming on? If you are seeing codes or an engine light, most likely sensors...i'll bet its a TPS sensor (36 bucks, do it yourself, its two screws), Do the wiggle test ( cracked wire under tank or just above fuel injectors). Are you backfiring out of the pipes or does it sound like your EFI is sucking air when you start sputtering? If it sounds like its gasping for breath.....get yer book out...........its really easy
check fuel lines externally take off console from tank open the fuel door on tank check those fuel lines inside. Mine, just last week, out of the blue started sputtering.....3 pinholes in the fuel line from internal rubbing. made me start drinking to find it FOLLOW THE BOOK. it can be intimidating at first, but if I can do it....anyone can
It is probably a 6mm screw. 4mm and 5mm and 5.5mm are also possibilities. Just go to a hardware store that has a nuts & bolts section and find the metric screws. Try the 6mm & if that is too large try the 4mm etc..
G'day. Yes your right but I recomend not fiting it.-The're a constant form of trouble. Replace it with an aftermarket in line filter-they come in clear so you can see any rubbish that may get caught in them-much more efective. You can purchace them from most good motorbike shops.Take your fuel hose with you so you can get an in-line filter with the right size spigot to suit your diameter hose.
I hope this is helpfull Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
draining the tank can be done easiny by syphoning the fuel out with a small diameter rubber tube (about 5mm internal) and the residual fuel can be drained via the tap into a can or drain it all this way if you wish, and the carbs can be drained by turning the fuel off at the tank and running the bike until it stops (this uses all the fuel up in the carbs, great for long storage) hope this helps
there should only 2 lines from the fuel tap, one for fuel, and the other for vacume, the smaller diameter hose is the vacume, and the larger hose is fuel. fuel hose will go to carby, and the vacume hose to the carby inlet manifold.
Are you sure it doesnt respond? i thought the same and even bought a new one still no change. I found out the if you empty the pump of fuel and the line leading in that you"ll hear it over the engine noise as a slight clicking noise till it gets full and quiets down. also i took on of the line off just to make sure the gas was being pumped out when it was quiet.
hi buddy then fan will kick in and the oil temp will be high due to you not riding fast enough to let air pass the radiator and oil cooler t cool the liquid but bikes are built for this budd you have nothing to worrie about
There are two lines coming out of the fuel petcock (shut-off valve). The small diameter one is a vacum line that connects to the top of the rubber intake located between the carb and the engine head. you should notice that all four intakes have a vacum port in this location and they should all be capped excet one - usually #2.
The second line of the fuel petcock is the larger diameter one, and is the fuel line. Make sure you install an in-line filter if it has been lost. The fuel line connects to the carb on a pipe that feeds all four carbs. The pipe is located on the lower portion of the carb, down by the float bowls. There will be a connection port between #2 and #3 (right in the middle of the carb assembly). It will be difficult to see when everything is assembled and even more dificult to reach.