My KR1S seems to blow a bit of water out of the radiator into the header as it should when the engine heats up but never seems to draw it back in when it cools down. I've checked the rad cap and it's fine and the bike dosen't overheat from too much loss so is this normal for these bikes as my brothers KR1 does the same thing?
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Re: kr water loss
My old KR1-S used to do this, the rad cap etc was fine etc and the head gasket was new,
to avoid the problem id find a level in the coolant system that it stopped spitting the water out and kept it at that.
i did 10k miles like this so i dont think its a big problem.
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G'day. I guess your wondering what is going on- no loss of coolant but it's moving from the radiator to the catch tank.You put it back in the radiator & back it goes to the catch tank again- seems like somthings wrong but the answer is simple really. As your bike warms up,the cooant in the radiator expands with the heat & moves excess to the catch tank. Then the water contracts when the bike cools down & some of the coolant is now in the catch tank & the radiator a bit low. So what to do. Run it & this time don't put the excess back in the radiator. Set the catch tank to max & then just moniter whats going on from there. It's normal for the radiator to be down just that bit when cold to allow for the water expansion when it gets hot. If the radiator gets too low ,coolant will be drawn out of the catch tank to fill it up. This is called a coolant recovery system & is commonly fitted to liquid cooled bikes. The part to check is the radiator cap. You will see two rubber parts on the under side of the cap. One black rubber on a spring & the other seal just under the lip of the cap.Check that these are not damaged. If either is split replace the radiator cap. I hope this has been of some help. Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
Sportsbike engines do run a bit hot at times, depending on how you use them. What exactly are you talking about when you say "a lot of heat off the engine" are you talking about feeling it on your legs when you are riding the bike? Is this a new problem for the bike or has it always been like that?
If the engine really IS hotter than the gauge is showing then there might possibly be a problem with the temperature sensor. Usually this will be screwed into the radiator somewhere with a single wire connected to the plug. If the threads of this plug are dirty or corroded it might give a false reading as the plug needs a good earth for the signal to be correct. Also, if the engine has been run on water only rather than coolant the actual sensor that sits inside the radiator in contact with the water may have some corrosion on it and require cleaning.
Another possibility is that the thermostat is not working and blocking the flow of water/coolant in the system. This might cause hot water to become trapped in the engine and the cool water in the radiator is not able to circulate into the engine.
Finally, one other thing that is a common cause of bike engines running hot is a lean condition where they are not getting enough fuel for the air being taken into the engine. This is a very common thing to happen when the exhaust is replaced with a much more open pipe without doing any rejetting. However in a normal situation you would expect to see the temp gauge running slightly higher if this was the problem.
If it's any comfort I've seen stunt guys try and blow up a ZX9 deliberately and they couldn't do it. Jammed the throttle full open for about 15 minutes, smashed the radiator and let all the water out, then finally kicked it over and smashed the engine cases and half the oil ran out. Still wouldn't stop running. They made those things pretty tough.
antifreeze/water do not use 100% water, because water has a low boiling point, try and use 80ant/20water, antifreeze has a bit higher boiling point than water so wont get hot too quick. Fluid should not be blowing out any caps, unless when replacing new head gasket and it not seated properly as pressure also leaking out between the engine head through the coolant section and build lots of pressure blowing off the caps. make sure the fan also working properly. recheck your head gasket and its seated and torque the bolts to proper tightness, too tight it will crush the head gasket and too lose will also leaks as both it will cause the gasket not to seat properly. make sure you torque it to the specification, reason is allowing the everything to shrink when its cool and expand when it heat up. Bike motors get heat up very quickly due to its revolutions motor turning and lack of constant airflow and small radiator.
Air leak causing a lean fuel/air mixture, bad radiator cap killing pressure in the cooling system, low water in the radiator, plugged radiator, broken water pump, not using premium gas and a spark plug with the wrong heat range.
Please rate this solution. Thanks rodsixfifty! < cool name
kr1s gear box is a quick change cassette with three seletor forks. stuck in gear could be a bent fork or a snaped selector spring, remove 3 bolts on front sprocket cover , then remove 4 bolts to change cover, check for damage to levers and that both springs are connected, if no damage ,undo and reome bolts hold gearbox cassette and withdraw the complete unit check forks, fork rollers and the drum for cracks or missing guides.manual can be found at
ok why are you using water should be using coolant there is allways coolant in the block radiator and header tank the pump circulates the coolant around the block and back into the radiator to be cooled if the radiator is still leaking you shoul repair with rad weld dont leave it keep the haeder tank topped up check radiator and hader tank regularly
valve camshaft bearing...a head gasket will blow without any oil loss--sounds more like exhaust leak.you can take a propane torch and hold it close to the header pipe and rev the engine up and let off the throttle.if it is leaking it will pull the flame to the header.,,