Question about 1974 kawasaki Z1A

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Multimeter i get confused about how to properly use a multimeter. can someone describe in baby talk how, i could test: 1. solenoid 2. coils

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Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Tem my briggs portable generator has no spark it appears ignition coil has failed. Items checked. disconnected kill wire to coil, disconnected oil sensor wire no spark this will be the 2nd coil


Test the coil electrically
A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower

Oct 26, 2016 | Briggs Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

YZF R1 YAMAHA WON'T HOLD CHARGE


Hi Anonymous perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your multimeter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe multimeter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up the multimeter to the battery set it to DC volts and start the engine if multimeter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With the multimeter set to the ohms scale, with one lead grounded, touch an alternator pin ohmmeter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the multimeter set on AC volts scale, both leads touching alternator pins multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
bike wont hold charge killed new battery Yamaha R1 Forum YZF R1 Forums
Battery won stay charged on R1
http://www.journey.cz/moto/navody/Yamaha%20YZF-R1%2002%20Service%20Manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/Attachment.html?attachmentId=739673

May 09, 2014 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a kenmore gas dryer is it good if on # 1 coil on #1and 2 i get1328 ohms 1and3 i get 528 on #2 coil i get 1220 ohms


On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

My gas dryer ignitor heats up and then I hear a


I would suspect faulty gas valve coils or a faulty high limit thermostat, based on what you have described. First, the high limit thermostat is a round, black device mounted on a metal plate and is usually attached to the internal ductwork with two screws. It can be tested for continuity using a multimeter. It should have no continuity. If it has continuity, it is stuck and faulty. The black electrical coils are right above the gas valves and when these solenoids are energized, they open the gas valves and allow the burner to light. If one is faulty, the valves don't open and the burner can't light. If the ignitor is operating properly, they would be the likely fault. Due to the difficulty in testing these solenoids, it is recommended that if they are suspected of being the fault, that both (all) of them be replaced at the same time. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Aug 07, 2009 | Dryers

3 Answers

Multimeter


Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2005 Honda Cb 400 Super Four

1 Answer

Multimeter


Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Nov 20, 2008 | 1990 kawasaki KR-1R

1 Answer

Multimeter


Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2006 Suzuki SV 1000 S

1 Answer

Multimeter


Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Nov 20, 2008 | 1998 Suzuki RG 150 Gamma II

1 Answer

Multimeter


Pick up a shop manual. It will tell you how and what to check for coils. I don't know the specs off hand for your coils (they are generally in ohms which measure resistance) or which wire to connect to the multimeter where. You need a shop manual to test coils to get the specs on how many ohms there should be. Make sure the battery is 100% charged and read the manual for your multimeter. You can pop the fuse if you use it wrong and or damage the meter. To test a solinoid you'll need a helper or you can do it yourself but it helps to have someone push the start button for you while you watch the meter. Put the multimeter in DC volts (I believe there is postition of 20v and under but dont use millivolts, I dont have mine handy to look at and my memory sucks anymore). Have the helper push the start button and put the + lead on one terminal (the one coming from the battery) and the - on the other (the heavy one leading to the starter) it should show a voltage (around 12 or more with a fully charged battery)when the button is pushed with the key on. To see if you are getting power tot he solenoid unhook the wire coming from the start button (again this is where a shop manual helps but it's usually a real thin wire) place the + lead on the wire and the - lead on a ground ( engine, frame, - battery term). have a helper push the start button with the key on. If you have voltage to that wire thats close to battery voltage then you are getting power to the solenoid most likely. You can also test that way with a test light. I know I'm forgetting stuff but you get the idea. Oh yeah, check all your fuses first to make sure none of them are blown.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2000 Husqvarna TE 410 E

1 Answer

Gas Dryer not heating


You will have to replace "BOTH" of those gas solinoids. First, be absolutely sure that you "TURN OFF THE GAS". Then be sure the unit is unplugged. Remove the phillips head screws, remove the small metal top bracket, and slide the coil up and off. Then replace the coil, rehook your wire, and replace the metal holder. Upon testing, be sure to turn your gas back on. The first time it may act like it wont start, but let it cycle through a couple times to remove air. Good Luck And Be Safe. Jim

Sep 07, 2007 | Kenmore 72062 Gas Dryer

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