Greetings fellow SV owners. I've seen alot of debate on what oil you should use on the SV650S. I went to Walmart today to get some oil and the book specifically says SF 0r SG, although last year I used Castrol GTX 10W-40 in the bike and it ran fine.
This year I went to get more and was wondering if anyone has used it. It's API service SM, SL, SJ, SH The one that says "Unique Anti-Sludge Formula" on it. I know the manual states It can be SJ or SH if it's MA in JASO.
Any guidance would be appreciated, feel free to email me - again, I used this oil last year and the clutch didn't slip, bike ran fine. I don't race it and change the oil often.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: SV650S Alternative Engine Oil
Suzuki recommends the use of SUZUKI PERFORMANCE 4 MOTOR OIL or an oil which is rated SF or SG under the API (American Petroleum Institute) classification system. The viscosity rating should be SAE 10W-40. If an SAE 10W-40 oil is not available, select an alternative according to the information below:
-4°F - 86°F: 10W-30
-4°F - 104°F+: 10W-40, 10W-50
6°F - 104°F+: 15W-40, 15W-50
14°F - 104°F+: 20W-50
Engine life depends on oil amount and quality. Daily oil level checks and periodic changes are two of the most important maintenance itmes to be performed.
Longer, there are no "energy conserving" 10W-40 oils, so no worry about clutch slipping. All other parameters such as manufacturer, mineral or synthetic, cheap or expensive, etc. are a matter of personal preference and open for debate.
You can also use any grades recommended in your manual and/or mix them in any way you want (like half 10W-40, half 20W-50). You can even buy "motorcycle specific" motor oil if you feel like paying more for the same thing.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Oil light on means little or no pressure.
This can be because of a mechanical problem or fault/failure, or no oil, or
wrong oil, or bad sensor. I recommend you trust the sensor until it is proven
faulty. It is telling you there is a serious problem with the lubrication system
. If you ignore this problem, you will probably ruin your engine and probably
the transmission also as both share common oil.
This is a common problem with the older bikes. The reason is the position of the oil tank and the type of oil pump the engine is equipped with. With the tank being higher than the engine, oil will seep past the check ball in the oil pump and into the engine. When you fire the engine up, the oil pump cannot pump the excess oil back into the tank quickly enough and some gets blown out of the crankcase vent. If you allow the bike to sit for extended periods of time, this problem is worse. It's commonly called "oil sumping" around here. When you hear an old Shovelhead rider talking about his bike "puking", that's what he's talking about. I've seen those bikes puke nearly a quart of oil after sitting a few months. I've seen Ironhead Sportsters completely drain the oil tank into the engine. This is normal to a degree but if it gets too bad, you can "reseat" the check ball by removing the plug above the check ball on the oil pump and use a small hammer and punch to gently tap the ball into the seat in the pump. Then, remove the old ball and drop in a new one.
I've run into this problem before. Unfortunately, the owner wrecked the bike before we solved the problem. Here's what I found so confusing. If the top end is filling up with oil and not draining down the return holes in the heads and cylinders, it should drain down through the pushrod tubes. Each tappet has a drain hole in the tappet block to allow oil to drain down and not build up in the tubes. But, for some reason, it seems that the oil simply will not drain back. It acts like there is too much pressure building up in the crankcase. It wouldn't do it on short rides, just on rides of about 20 miles or more.
So, with this in mind, my next step was to pull the nosecone and check the breather gear. As you know, the Evolution engines have plastic breather gears in them and I've seen lots of them break a tooth and quit turning. Usually, the broken tooth gets hung in the return gears of the oil pump and shears the drive key. This requires that this be fixed before the engine can be run and the pressure build up noticed. But, if the broke plastic gear tooth does not lock up the oil pump, the breather gear not turning could be the reason for the pressure buildup in the engine. Now, you cannot simply take the bolts out of the nosecone and pull it off. You must deal with the ignition system first then the cam and tappets. The book says that you must pull the pushrods out and take the pressure off the cam or you will not be able to get the nosecone back on. If the breather gear is broken, you'll have to retime the new one and the cam unless you replace it with one of the new S&S Reed Valve type breather gears that do not turn.
Now, this is just a guess on my part. Since I cannot see or touch your engine, this is the only idea that I know of provided the oil pump is pumping the oil back into the oil tank. It's your engine blowing oil out for no apparent reason. I had the problem on a '91 FXR which is not a head breather. It just leaked oil from everywhere. pushrod tubes, rocker box gaskets, base gaskets, everywhere. I'd like to know what you find.
Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
Engine Oil - 1.10 Liters (1.16 Qt) SAE 10W/50
Alternative Engine Oil for Harsh operatings conditions and increased performance is SAE 10W/60
You will find all the service information on page 71 of the owners manual:
Please advise if we can provide additional information or help.
Well, just like in a car engine, there is no way to change out all of the oil. There's going to be some pockets of oil left somewhere in the engine. I've torn down engines that haven't been run in twenty years and found pockets of oil sitting in the heads and places like that. If you've changed the oil several times, you should be good to go. Did you check the primary case oil? I've seen the gasoline get in there as well. Drain it and add a quart of oil and you'll be fine.
you have to tune your engine using the following ways. 1. tune your fuel air screw for optimal settings.(in most cases inappropriate tuning is the reason for backfires) 2. check and clean your spark plug and the wire connecting your spark plug. 3. check the voltage levels of the battery. if they are low then recharge them.