Question about 1994 Suzuki RGV 250 R

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Clutch my clutch is a little wierd. it starts to grab way out just before it reaches the end. and i was wondering if there is any way i could change that at all

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You can adjust the play by tightening or losening the cable.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Clutch adjustment # 1 to 4 what does it do


The 1 to 4 adjustment only changes how close the lever is to the bar. It will not change the "friction point" of the clutch.
If your bike has a cable operated clutch you can adjust the cable to change this. If it is a hydraulic clutch then bleed the system. I think though it is a sign of clutch wear.
There is a little screw on the inside of the clutch lever in between the 1 to 4 dial and the bar grip. You can try to adjust that carefully. It may be difficult at first as BMW loctites the screw.

May 26, 2014 | 2002 BMW R 1200 C Classic

1 Answer

Ktm 85 egine noise,and just ad topend rebuild


Instructions
    • 1 Take the motorcycle for at least a fifteen minute test drive. Use this time to determine if the clutch needs to "grab" more or less. For example, if you pull in the clutch lever and it is difficult to shift, it grabs too much. On the other hand, if when you let the clutch lever out the motorcycle is low on power, it is not grabbing enough.
    • 2 Set the motorcycle on its kickstand or, if like some dirt bikes, it does not have one, prop it against a solid object so that it will not fall over while being worked on.
    • 3 Loosen the clutch cable if the clutch needs to "grab" more, via the clutch cable adjuster bolts near the crankcase, until there is a small amount of play in the cable. You should be able to move the clutch lever just slightly with no change in the clutch's actuation.
    • 4 Tighten the clutch cable if you need the clutch to "grab" less. Tighten the cable until there is only a small amount of play left in the cable. Pulling the lever from now on will make a much larger difference in clutch actuation.
    • 5 Tighten the clutch cable adjusters near the crank case and take the motorcycle for a test ride in an open, private area. While riding, use your left hand to adjust the barrel adjuster where the cable housing meets the clutch lever to fine tune the adjustments made previously. When you feel the clutch is set up properly, return to your work area and tighten the barrel adjuster stop so that it will not loosen as you ride.

Jan 16, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 96 shadow ace 1100- when i down shift and try to go go the bike wines out like the cluch is slipping- I let off a little and it grabs'''??? is my cluch bad --can that be ajusted


More than likely you need a new clutch cable. When you pull the lever and let it out the cable is probably binding just enough to keep the clutch from fully engaging. Thus the clutch slips till the cable fully extends, then the clutch grabs. To test this unhook both ends of the clutch cable and grab one end with your fingers. It should move freely with no resistance. If it is slow or sticky replace it. Even just a kink in the cable close to the housing or rust inside the housing will cause the clutch to not fully engage. The average Honda clutch is typically good for more than 60,000 miles under normal driving conditions. If you drive the bike hard or have been slipping the clutch for a while and notice a burnt smell in the oil, then you may need new clutch plates. Check the cable first, it is a lot easier to deal with.

May 03, 2011 | Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre Motorcycles

2 Answers

2000 yamaha yz 250 the clutch slips and then grabs and doesnt want to shift properly i took out the disks and cleaned them and put it back together its a little better but still not right what could be the...


Your CLUTCH CABLE is probably damaged and is binding for a second or two before it lets the clutch fully engage. Unhook both ends of the cable and slide the cable back and forth through the housing. If there is any drag or it binds at all replace the clutch cable. This should take care of the problem.

Jul 31, 2010 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

2 Answers

Clutch slippage


Drain fluid out of clutch cylinder. Clean out cylinder then look at bottom and you will see 2 small holes.Stick a small pin or wire into the hole that has a little check ball inside. Once you can push that ball in with the pin you will see some fluid come into the reservoir. That lets you know it was clogged. Now refill with dot 4 and bleed system. Clutch will not slip now. I just had the same problem and changed clutch spring, plates, etc and nothing worked until I did this.

May 24, 2010 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

2 Answers

Starter


The gear that the starter clutch grabs hold of has a smooth collar on the side of it that the clutch grabs a hold of. It has to be smooth (round) , not chattered , if you did not replace the gear also that is why it will not grab.

May 14, 2010 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do u adjust the clutch on my suzuki vl800 its starting to slip its a cable clutch


There should be a finger adjustment screw, where the clutch cable meets the clutch lever. turn it outwards one turn at a time ,if more than five turns or reach end of thread ,your clutch will need replacing.

Feb 14, 2010 | 2001 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

1 Answer

I have a suzuki rm 125 1994 model when i pull the clutch lever in to put it in gear the clutch doesnt work t jst crunches into gear


Adjust the clutch cable to allow about 1/4" free play at the end of the clutch handle. Don't put the bike in gear until the rpms are near idle speed. The clutch is working fine if the bike does not lurch forward when going into gear at idle speed. Dirty, gritty oil in the gearbox can make the clutch grab. Consider changing oil if grabbing is the problem. The "crunch" you hear is the slider gear engaging into the driven gear. The higher the engine speed when being put into gear the louder the crunch. The slider gear engaging "dogs" can break. Crunching into gear is hard on the gears.

Post a comment to let me know how you come out on this.

Jun 04, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 S

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 R

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