Question about 1994 Suzuki RGV 250 R

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Clutch my clutch is a little wierd. it starts to grab way out just before it reaches the end. and i was wondering if there is any way i could change that at all

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You can adjust the play by tightening or losening the cable.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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I put a new clutch in a 1993 mustang gt and when i mash the clutch pedal the clutch dosent disingage what would cause that.


your clutch fork either is'nt on the throwout bearing properly or on the pivot ball stud. odds are its off the pivot ball stud or you may have missed putting it back in, (it happens) do you have little to no firmness when you push the clutch in? and alot of play when you grab ahold of the fork by hand?

Aug 27, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 96 shadow ace 1100- when i down shift and try to go go the bike wines out like the cluch is slipping- I let off a little and it grabs'''??? is my cluch bad --can that be ajusted


More than likely you need a new clutch cable. When you pull the lever and let it out the cable is probably binding just enough to keep the clutch from fully engaging. Thus the clutch slips till the cable fully extends, then the clutch grabs. To test this unhook both ends of the clutch cable and grab one end with your fingers. It should move freely with no resistance. If it is slow or sticky replace it. Even just a kink in the cable close to the housing or rust inside the housing will cause the clutch to not fully engage. The average Honda clutch is typically good for more than 60,000 miles under normal driving conditions. If you drive the bike hard or have been slipping the clutch for a while and notice a burnt smell in the oil, then you may need new clutch plates. Check the cable first, it is a lot easier to deal with.

May 03, 2011 | Honda VT 1100 C2 Shadow Sabre Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hi I have a car like this and I was wondering why does my clutch don't grab and when I let go the clutch the car don't but when I keep pushing gas paddle then car moves little bit


You need to remove the transmission and perform a flywheel and clutch repair. The clutch has worn out, past it's service life.

Oct 02, 2010 | 1990 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

Clutch slippage


Drain fluid out of clutch cylinder. Clean out cylinder then look at bottom and you will see 2 small holes.Stick a small pin or wire into the hole that has a little check ball inside. Once you can push that ball in with the pin you will see some fluid come into the reservoir. That lets you know it was clogged. Now refill with dot 4 and bleed system. Clutch will not slip now. I just had the same problem and changed clutch spring, plates, etc and nothing worked until I did this.

May 24, 2010 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

2 Answers

'94 VW Jetta III - clutch ''slipping''


I would have the clutch adjusted

Aug 01, 2009 | 1994 Volkswagen Jetta

2 Answers

New clutch cable made gear change much worse.


Hi,

Had a recent similar problem. Fortunately, my replacement cable is adjustable. As the new cable stretched, I had to take a crowbar to the the throwout lever next to the battery and lever it back while pulling off the cable (towards the battery). I then lifted the fuse box (look out for the 10mm plastic nut that holds it in on the side by the driver's side fender) on the drivers side right in front of the windshield to reach down and pull the cable up enough to reach the adjustor. When it is high enough, release the locknut and turn the adjusting nut upwards about 4 turns (both nuts on my cable were 17mm and a "stubby" is handy but not necessary. Grab the end by the battery and, making sure it is seated on the groove on the transmission, pry the lever again with the crowbar and reseat tg
he cable end in the lever. I have had to readjust the cable twice more before it settled in a comfortableplace, but once you get the hang of it, it only takes about 10 minutes.

Hope this is helpful.

May 20, 2009 | 1997 Saab 900

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 S

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 R

4 Answers

Poulan Pro Clutch Removal


If you mean the teeth on the chain, then you would not need to remove the clutch to change it.
Presumably you mean the drive sprocket is worn.
To do this, you need to stop the engine from turning over while you undo the nut.
You should have got a piston stop with the saw. Funny little flat plastic thing with round ends. You probably wondered what on earth it was for (I did). If you've not got it, you can improvise.
You remove the spark plug & insert one end of the tool, basically, this puts a lump of hard plastic on top of the piston so it cannot reach the top of its stroke.
This means you can undo the nut holding the clutch & sprocket to the crankshaft.
It will be left hand thread (I'm fairly sure).
Should be easy from there, but come back if you're still stuck.

Oct 06, 2008 | Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"

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