Question about 2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia

2 Answers

Clutch problem I'm having a clutch issue that I've been unable to solve. When I first fire the engine and ride away, all is well. I can rev up the engine with no hint of slippage. However, after riding for 20 minutes or so, the clutch begins to slip badly and I have to creep back home using about 1/4 throttle. I've changed the oil (10w40) and filter. I've bled the clutch but the condition continues. When I bought the bike in 92 I also bought the Suzuki Service Manual, but I can't find anything in it that'll point me in the right direction. I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea of where to look and what to look for. I've built Chevy engines for more years than I can remember (30+), but I never got into clutches/trans. I do have plenty of tools and time (since I'm retired) so I'd appreciate any help. Thanks,

Posted by on

2 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 5 Answers

You can NOT use a friction enhanced oil in these bikes, as they are wet clutches. the circle on the oil jug can not have friction reducer (or similar verbage). you may have to totally drain your bikes oil & put in 15W40 (auto oil is fine, just can NOT have friction reducer)

you may want to join (it's free) www.volusiariders.com its an internet forum for VL800 owners.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 2,336 Answers

Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole. My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe. If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion. Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

Not Accelerating beyond 40-50 kmph


NOT clutch issue - if it was the clutch the rpms would rev out but bike would go no faster.
Sounds like carburetor may be partially plugged up, main jet.
Or air filter needs replacing.

Apr 03, 2014 | 2006 Bajaj Wind 125

1 Answer

I have a 1980 Suzuki GS 1100. The starter relay clicks but thats it. It would start. I replace it with a new one and still the same thing. What could it be? Thanks


If you hear the starter relay click, but not turn over the motor that's a classic low/dead battery situation. There is only enough power left for the battery to click the starter but is not powerful enough to actually turn the engine over.

three ways you can deal with this issue.
First replace the battery.
Second give the battery a charge using either a battery charger or the more common battery trickle charger (battery tenderizer) which most motorcycle owners use to keep their bikes battery charged over long periods of non use like the winter. If you have a tenderizer just hook it up to the battery, plug it into the wall and let it trickle charge for about 12-16 hours or so and then try again.

If the starter is actually turning over but you arent gettting the engine to fire then it has to be one of the only two remaining variables that we need for combustion, spark and fuel. check you spark plugs for excessive wear, carbon buildup or damage, and then check the spacing or just replace them. if you see a spark when you fire the starter than its not a plug issue.

Finally fuel. Is there gas in the tank? can you hear the fuel pump click on once you turn the key to on? is the line creased or corroded, if you unplug the line do you see fuel being pumped in?

those are your three possibilities.

Another easy thing to try to check if it is a batteyr issue and you don't have a charger is to try push starting the bike

  1. First, make sure that your bike isn't starting just because you are out of gas. If you're out of gas, this will not work.
  2. Make sure the key is in the on position
  3. Put the bike in 2nd gear
  4. Hold the clutch in and begin pushing, preferably downhill, but it will work elsewhere as well.
  5. Once you've gathered enough momentum, apply a minimal amount of throttle (not too much or the bike will get away from you) and hop on the bike just as you release the clutch.
  6. Rev the engine a bit so your bike doesn't conk out.
  7. Ride away.

Aug 16, 2011 | Suzuki GSX 1100 E Motorcycles

1 Answer

Recently there is a lot of scratchy noise coming from an engine of my 2003 V-max when I rev it above 3000 rpm. It goes away when the clutch is pulled. Everything is functioning just fine, except that noise...


If noise goes away when clutch is pulled then it is a loose clutch basket,you need to replace clutch basket and clutch,They make complete replacment kits.Its not a big deal but I would stop riding it till you replace worn parts.Running it the way it is will result in a blown clutch and could do more damage.If you have some mechanical ability you can change this yourself.Good Luck Brian.....

May 29, 2011 | 2000 Yamaha V-Max

1 Answer

Driving down the road a open the throttle to accelerate. the engine revs up but it takes the bike a few seconds to speed up. could it be clutch fluid? clutch is brand new.


Hello
A new clucth will slip a little at first. Its recommended to try to make the clucthes slip.
i just put in a set that instructed me to make the clutches slip.
A brand new set of clutches needs to seat and it will take a few times riding it before it does.

If they continue to slips after a few rides then you should have your master cylinder bled.
If the clutches are not engaging all the way, the clucthes will slip and motor revs but bike dont move.
if the clucthes are not disengaging all the way, the clutches drag, and the bike will edge forward because the clucthes are not disengaing from the motor.

Thats a pretty simple set up, hydraulic just needs to be bled all the way in the same manner you bleed a brake caliper.
once bled there is no adjustment and the clutches should disengage and engage within the first 1/2 inch of pulling in the lever.

Hope that helps, and don't worry about your new clucthes, they will slipp a little but will go away.
i'm sure of it.
Best Regards
Big Al

May 22, 2011 | 2007 Suzuki Boulevard C50

3 Answers

CLUTCH problem


This is a problem that is very hard to solve on line... It could be human error.. But it could be because of power or carburation issues as well. Best thing I can tell you is to remove the spark plugs and tell me what color they are. Spark plugs are an excelent indicator of the true performance of the engine. Attach pictures of the porcilan and electrode area. This will help me determine if it is error or not.

Aug 29, 2009 | 2006 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

2 Answers

I have a 2000 (W reg) GPZ500S which has not run through the winter. The battery lost all of it's charge and the bike needed bump starting. On it's first ride out i noticed that the rev counter needle was...


i would get your battery tested sounds like low voltage it should test 12.7 volts if it is good. batterys usually dont survive after being dead for any lenght of time.

Apr 01, 2009 | 2000 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

1 Answer

Clutch problem


Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole. My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe. If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion. Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2001 Husqvarna TE 410 E

1 Answer

Clutch problem


Has the clutch lever been off for any reason? Here is why I ask: When I put on my V-Strom guards I made a mistake putting the clutch lever back on. There is a brass bushing in the end of the lever (like where the lead head for a cable would go). That bushing spins inside the lever. That bushing has a hole drilled into it (or hell mine did). There is a pushrod for the master cylinder. That pushrod must fit precisely into that hole. My clutch lever popped out during the install and I didn't see that it fit such precision. It went together and rode just exactly how you describe. If it's not that make sure the lever is moving smoothly and fully inside its holder for its full range of motion. Have you bled the clutch to the point that new fluid is fully in the system? If not keep on bleeding! There is another possiblity that (given the age) part of seal broke loose and is blocking the return port.

Nov 20, 2008 | 1975 kawasaki Z1B

1 Answer

Problem with throttle


Sounds a lot like clutch slippage to me. First I would check clutch oil. If it is low or worn enough to have lost its viscosity that could be the cause. Here is the backyard **** mechanic way to check clutch wear and slippage. Crude but effective. Point the bike toward a sturdy flat stationary object (a brick wall?). Roll the front wheel firmly against the wall. Make sure the bike is perfectly perpendicular to the wall, the frot wheel is aligned straight, and that the rear wheel is on a solid surface (concrete or asphalt -- not grass or dirt). Climb aboard into riding position and start the bike. In first gear clutch in, rev the bike as you would for a moderate start away from a stop (maybe 3k-4k or so) and slowly release the clutch. If the clutch is good, as the clutch starts to grab the revs will go down noticeably, and as it gets fully engaged or close to it the bike will stall. If the clutch is slipping (depending on how bad it is) the motor will continue to spin at pretty much the same speed as the clutch is engaged. This is a kind of touch-feel thing but if the clutch is bad, you should know it. Needless to say do this carefully and at your own risk, but it works a wonder if you do it right. Another way to check is to ride the bike. Get into the power range barely (above 8K) and hold it steady. Does not really matter what gear, but I suggest 2nd or 3rd. Whack the throttle. If the RPMs rise quickly (quicker than the speed) you've got clutch slippage.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 1999 Cagiva Mito 125 Evoluzione

Not finding what you are looking for?
2003 Suzuki VL 800 Volusia Logo

560 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Suzuki Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

61249 Answers

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4481 Answers

Ed Nelson
Ed Nelson

Level 2 Expert

149 Answers

Are you a Suzuki Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...