I recently bought a bike for dirt cheap i thought ($1500), bike looked in good shape and rides great; but recently i noticed two things and I think it might be the same problem.
1st - When the bike is in neutral, and the clutch is released i can somewhat hear (faint) and feel (faint) a grinding noise (similar to when a car is out of coolant and the fan is trying to run); but when I run the bike it all goes away, or if im in first gear with the clutch pressed and stationary, no noise is heard and nothing is felt.
2nd, the other day I was riding with a bunch of guys who know bikes, and somebody riding abreast to me said they might''ve heard a wheezing noise usually heard when I take off (maybe first gear or neutral)
Question being, transmissions or gears (chain set) if needed, is it SUPER expensive or cheap enough to keep the bike around?? I''m not totally mechanically challenged, I know my way around cars and don''t initially see motorcycles being that different. Any suggestions to what I can do to pinpoint the problem so I can fix it??
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Re: CBF grinding sound
Dude its the clutch plates honda double rr are really really bad about this my r1 dose it chamge all fibers and plates and add one extra fiber to very bottom this will pull most of this out if u want it all out do all the above and replace basket oil and cable check forks for warpage
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Re: CBF grinding sound
I got an cbr 600rr and somtimes when u press the clutch in it makes a little clicking kinda noise..its just a noisey down side to honda bikes i guess..or it could be somthing to do with ur clutch cable or somthing..im not to for sure tho
and that weezing/rasping sound..i am currently havin the same problem.im not sure if were havin the same issue but when i start off and ride around 0-5000rpms it makes a rasping noise..and iw as told this is the chain tensionor and that they are generally bad on honda bikes...i was told go with a manual one..not sure if these are theproblems ur having but sounds somewhat close..hope this helps
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I have an 05 with the same problem. Sounds like your STVA went out. Do you still have your butterflies wired open? I know how to repair the stva fixed mine, and saved hundreds....if your still on this post email me so we can get our bikes fixed. also check your kick stand sensor! This can malfunction and cause same stalling problems.
That is a good find!-- I always favor the Schwinn line-- My Dad used to sell them in Warsaw, New York years ago! You ask good questions-- and maybe I can give you some thoughts-- Likely you will need new tires and tubes all the way around-- You local hardware (maybe even Wallmart?) - or for sure your local bike shop will have them-- Be sure to take the exact size numbers with you-- for there are MANY SIZES in tires these days!
Now-- What are you planning on doing with the bicycles? The old Schwinn's were Strong, Sturdy AND HEAVY (by today's standards..) (I used to Pedal papers for years with my Schwinn Corvette!!) Most bicycle riding enthusiasts these days want lighter bikes-- and thinner tires!-- Great for the long run-- Are you going to use the Bikes yourself, or were you thinking of selling them? -- They probably mean more to you (and are probably worth more to you-- if they were old Family Heirlooms' )
Cheapie FS bikes are ****.ola. Heavy as hell, which means everytime you take a hit with it, the weight of the bike beats itself up. The cheapie bike is cheap because they are built with cheap parts that are weak and that look shiny; this sucks in the uneducated buyer who wants a 'mountain bike'. This kind of buyer thinks 'mountain' means 'beat the hell out of it' and ride with no technique and it will never break.
A decent FS bike starts at around $1500. For that money your get decent shocks, but not the top end stuff. You'll also get less quality in the wheels and other parts to keep the bike at the 1500 mark.
For the same 1500, you can get a real nice hardtail. You do not have any of the maintenance of a rear suspension, nor the weight. You'll get a nice set of wheels and a real decent crankset and nicer fork. I also prefer hardtails over FS where I live (MN). If I was a downhill freak living in the mountains , then I'd start looking at a FS bike.
Since this bike has been in storage for eight years my feeling is that things might still be a bit stiff and gummed up.The best thing to do I think would be to take it out and ride it and get all the parts freed up and moving again.Do an oil change after a couple of thousand kms and see if it makes any difference.I can't see a bike with that kind of low riding time having any great problems BUT keep an ear on things. Good luck and good riding.
Sounds like the starter pawl has failed, a tab may have broken from return spring plate, it is a simple job for a home mechanic with a workshop manual, and won't cost too much from a qualified mechanic. However, it is a good idea to search on the net the appropriate models specifications so you have an understanding and are not taken for a ride, literally. Enter your bikes model and year into search, many diagrams and specifications are available to download across the spectrum.
The site below provides exploded views of all the parts on your bike, just scroll down to your model and click on it, then select any section (listed) for your bike. Cheers.
(great old bike Kevin) Sounds like selector forks, cams and/or grooves on selector barrel are at wear limits. Drain gearbox oil over magnet and check for metal splinters. Metal silt is common but shiny shards (very small) or foil like pieces indicate excessive wear. These old girls will still keep turning but will jam eventually. I suggest you pull selector mechanism down and either shim behind the cam plate spring or get replacement selector barrel. In the mean time thoroughly flush and give her some good quality gear oil of the lighter viscosity. Drive and driven shaft end bearings are often at fault on long haul m'bikes also. Replacement is inevitable.