Got a new 2007 Night Train and it works fine BUT
it has rpm like a japs.
Is there a way to adjust the idle to really low ?
I know that the high Idle is a sort of adjustment
to create more power to the battery.
but hey, I'm standing still as little as possible so
the battery will be charge anyway.
Or changing to a carb, would that work ?
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Re: High Idle on a 2007 Night train
The engine needs 950-1050 rpm's to properly charge the battery and supply enough oil pressure. Lowering it can effect both and is not advisable to do. There;s a small window to play with but it is better left at factory specs.
As far as FI injection to carb, it can be done but at a cost and the same applies to idle speed there, just a bit more of a window because of no fuel pump drawing from the system.
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Turn both low and high adjustment screws carefully clockwise all the way in - do not overtighten.. Then back out each two full turns. Set the idle speed control for highest setting. Prime and start and let it run and warm up for about 15 seconds - then lower the rpms a tad and then adjust the low end screw for highest rpm. Then reset the idle to lower reasonable level. You may have to go back and forth with those two adjustments till it runs fine at low idle speed..
Then accelerate to highest speed and set the high adjustment for highest rpm. Then go from idle to high speed. If not smooth a small adjustment on the high speed screw is in order. Keep doing that until you get a nice smooth transition form low speed to high speed.
I will try to explain new electronic injection. There is an adjustment but you have another problem if the idle speed is too high.
When the RPM goes higher, it means you have an air leak, intake runner problem or higher fuel pressure than the stock setting. Or ISC (idle speed control solenoid) Think of it like opening the throttle slightly and letting more air into the motor or gas into the engine.
You can use a pump spray bottle of water with the engine running and mist the seams and vacuum lines and switches. A change in RPM indicates a leak.
Intake runner. These are like shutters inside the intake manifold. Modern intakes can have 2 levels of airflow separated by the intake runners. Sticking runners can let more air into the engine at the wrong time and affect idle.
ISC solenoid Is a valve that regulates airflow for the idle. Soot can cause it to stick in the wrong position. Removing and cleaning the port with WD40 can help.
High fuel pressure. If the fuel regulator sends more gas to the engine, the RPM will increase.
There is a set screw at the base of the airhorn to stop the throttle cable. It is called a throttle stop. There is a hex hole for an allen wrench and it has been coated with threadlock in some instances. Really it is not meant to be turned once the factory sets it. But you can do it. If anything fixes the defects I mentioned, the idle may be too low. I do not have the Specs or know if you have any optional engine. Generally the engines idle between 525-and 600 rpm.
Hi Redmiston64, on the right hand side of the carburator there is an idle adjusting screw with a spring behind it, turn screw clockwise to increase idle counter clockwise to decrease idle. There is also an air/fuel mixture screw inside a carb body lug that may or may not be plugged with an aluminum cap that's about 3/16" thick. This cap can be drilled out to acess the air/fuel mixture screw. Turning screw clockwise will lean out mixture and lower idle, turning screw counter clockwise will richen mixture and raise idle. You need to balance the two adjusting screws to obtain an idle of 950-1000 RPM then back out air/fuel mixture screw 1/4 turn, snap throttle to confirm responce, you may continue to back out air/fuel mixture screw untill desired throttle responce is achieved, if you see black smoke coming out of exhaust you have gone to far and need to turn screw back in 1/8 turn at a time. Good luck.
Most bikes are in the 1000rpm range unles they are 2 stroke (some small Aprillas etc.), dont always go by the tacho meter, you can usually hear if the bike is idling too high or too low and idle adjustment is usually fairly easy once you find the adjuster screw.
Regarding the adjustment procedure you generally start your low and high mixture screws at one turn from seat, or slowly turn them in all the way until they bottom out and then back them out one full turn. You will adjust the high speed mixture screw at full throttle and get the median point between too rich (loads up) and too lean (dies out). You will want to do the same thing with the idle mixture screw, just adjust at idle rpm. You will also adjust the low idle mixture screw to give you a smooth transition from idle to throttle up. Once this is obtained, you adjust the third or idle speed screw low enough so the chain does not turn at idle rpm but high enough so the saw doesn't cut off. Hope this gets you going.
find the Idle air control valve on the side of the intake and then take off and clean or replace you could try taking a small ball peen hammer and tapping it lightly while it is idling let will genarly free them up