Mobil 1 M1-102 Oil Filter for '04 Softail Standard
Does anyone use (and recommend) this oil filter? Better yet, does it fit properly? According to the oil filter cross reference charts I've seen, the answer is yes. But charts and experiences aren't the same.
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I use nothing but OEM oil filters and I've installed a K&N cleanable air filter in all of my personal bikes and many of my customer's bikes over the years. You can't go wrong that way.
You Softail should hold three quarts of 20W50 synthetic oil in the oil tank. The transmission hold 20-24 ounces of the same oil and the primary holds 38-42 ounces of the same oil. Harley's oil is the Syn3 oil that it sells. You can use speciality oil in your bike as well. Some of the more popular brands are Amsoil, Royal Purple, RevTech, Mobil, Redline, and Golden Spectro. They are pricey and you need to go the company's website and check for the proper recommendations of their oil.
On the primary, I always stand the bike up and pour the oil in through the derby cover. If you look at the clutch assembly, you'll see that the outer hub is made of shiny aluminum. Just inside this there is a dark colored flat looking metal piece that is actually the clutch spring. Fill the oil no higher than the lowest point on this spring. If you fill it further, the clutch will drag.
As for the engine and the transmission, they each have a dipstick. The sticks have two marks on them. The top mark is "FULL HOT", and the lower mark is 'FULL COLD", Keep the oil level between these two marks. Never overfill.
#1 Heat up engine to make oil flow better
#2 Put car up on jack stand or ramps
#3 Place pan under engine and remove filter being careful not to burn yourself
#4 Remove oil plug from bottom of oil pan carefuly because oil is hot.
#5 Oil rubber gasket on filter and install filter and oil plug
#6 fill with recommended type and amount of oil
The Royal Star crankcase lubricates engine, transmission and wet clutch at the same time, that's why frequent oil and filter changes are recommended. Use a high-quality multi-grade oil, 10W-30 in cold weather and 20W-40 in hot weather is recommended by the manufacturer. AVOID ANY OIL THAT SAYS ENERGY-CONSERVING (you'll see a seal on the bottle), that type of oil has a tendency to make the clutch slip. Personally, I recommend a multi-grade synthetic - I use Shell Rotella-T (T6) synthetic 5W-40 year-round, 111,000 miles since I changed from Mobil-1 0W-40 (9,000 on the Mobil-1) ; the engine's still tight, and the transmission and clutch are quiet.
Your mechanic is spot on. The A4's are notorious for turbo overheating and failure. The oil burn is coming in the TURBO itself and then being distributed to 2.3.4 as a side effect. Your not noticing blue smoke because your catalytic converter is doing its job and the minor smoke being generated is being taken care of in the CAT. If you continue to drive as is you will run a certain risk of catalytic converter damage, cylinder damage from fouling (cylinder wash) build up, sludge, etc. If your mechanic has the knowledge on this specifc model there is a way to test the turbo output and turbo heat generation to absolutely confirm. One last thing. in ANY turbo car its imperative to run QUALITY oils not your local wal-mart brand or no name. Many people are not familiar with the demands on a TURBO engine and oil change facilities pull standard oil from 55 gallon drums via a pump.. so you arent feeding your car properly. The AVG (Audi/Volkswagen) company recommends FULL SYNTHETIC and either Castrol or Mobil 1. I have a Turbo Diesel and use Mobil1 as my choice. The recommended oil for your car via their web page is
4cyl. 1.8Liter Turbocharged Mobil 1 0W-40 A fully synthetic motor oil, Mobil 1 0W-40 with SuperSyn Technology exceeds industry standards and the major leading builder requirements, enabling the product to keep performing well after conventional oils cannot. Mobil 1 is recommended by leading car manufacturers as initial fill
Since you are going to check the one way valve and cleaning the filter too, I would recommend to check the intake air filter and clean it throughly. After that use carb cleaner to free up the nozzles of the injector valve . If the engine sound better after using carb cleaner, add some into the fuel from the fuel filter or pump, whichever one has easy access, and gun your engine in short bursts, after which it should run better.........sodeep