Glass shower leaking into wall, can't figure out how.
I have a framed glass shower, the type with a metal channel along the bottom that has weep holes for water that falls down the glass to escape back into the shower floor. Both sides of the glass have a channel along the metal frame, that has been covered with a rubber strip that has become brittle and needs replacing. Just outside the shower, mold has formed on the wall, in a patch about 4 inches round, and growing slowly.
I have also noticed that on the outside if the metal frame, water has begun collecting, I assume the seal between the inside and outside has broken - I don't think the outside of the channel should be wet. Even though water should not be getting through I still can't quite connect this with the mold. I realize water is getting though into the walls but I just can't figure out exactly how.
I am tempted to run a bead of silicone caulk down in the inside of the channel, but not at all comfortable that's either wise or sufficient to fix the problem.
Questions:
1) Is the metal frame just resting on the tile or is it screwed in ? If so, then could water be getting through the screw holes ? I so, what the heck would I do about that ?
2) Do I run the danger of clogging the weep holes if I caulk inside the channel ?
Re: Glass shower leaking into wall, can't figure out...
Hi dont know about shower,but think it would not hurt to take one screw out at a time and and squeeze a little water proof silicone in the screw holes then put the screws back in,and putting the silicone down the joint proberly would work but you would need to use a good anty mould silicone sealent(but if possible would be better to take the joint apart and seal it if posible,hope this was some help.
hiit sounds as though the diverter valve is sticking in the mid position although you have turned it to the floor spout as you call it!!
Also it sounds as though the seals are possibly leaking causing the plasterboard (drywall) to get we, or possibly a joint may be leaking. Advice access the pip-work valve etc run shower & check with torch (flashlight) to see where its coming from?
Rectification work replace seals/repair leak...replace diverter valve assembly.
you can fix this problem by loostening the clamp screw and putting locktite sealer(you can purchase locktite from hd or lowes locktite is not the only product you can call a glass supplier and as for recommendation) Be sure to read the directions on the tube I use it to seal joints on refrigeration threaded parts. Make sure it will adhere to glass and metal also review the clean up solvent when you do this place a wood wedge at the bottom of the glass dooor and the threashold to support he weight until the sealer driese
Steps
1 Place wood wedge/block under door where non hinged side meets wall
2 losten top hinge(inspect bottom hinge to make sure it is snug and the glass dor is all the way into the hinge
3 You may have to remove the top hinge completely to get enough of the locktite on the metal and glass place the locktite on the hinge flat plate and the glass
4 recheck gap where door meets wall( I sometimes use paint stirs(wood) as shims to keep space between door and wall consistent
5 tighten top inge screws( you can put locktite on the screw threas also
6 Clean excess locktite and wait suggested time by instructions on tube
I would unscrew shower head pipe and either pipe dope it or tefilon the threads and then reinstall it. I would also take the handle(s) rosettes off and look for a leak from there with a flashlight, while shower is on. I believe the most comon leak for walk in showers are the door seals. Are you sure it is not coming out from under the door? Another test that yuo may want to preform is to Stopper the drain, fill the shower pan with water and watch for bubbles, or look for leaks from below.
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It's usually because the metal frame at the bottom of the glass has become corroded over the years and allows the glass to move as it moves up or down. The same is true of the window guides/seals.
You should remove the door panel and check things. If the glass is loose in the bottom retainer consider securing it with a 2 part epoxy glue.
If the rubber guides on the windows are worn try lubricating them with a few drops of light oil - or replace them.
The wall was not perfectly plumb before the fixed glass was attached. The top needs to be shimmed out 3/16 and resealed against the wall. On the other hand 3/16 is not much of an error. Maybe no one else will notice it.
The inner door glass is held on by two clips at the bottom (hinge side) and two slides near the handle side. Remove the door from the oven and lie it the worktop flat with the hinges uppermost. Near the hinges you will see the glass is angles leaving a triangle of metal frame either side near the hinges.Rest the outside of your hand on the metal for purchase and then pull on the glass along the bottom edge (reasonable tug required) this will disengage the bottom clips and then slide the glass down about an inch to remove completely.
Take the glass its stuck to into the bathroom next time you bath or just leave it in there and turn your shower or bath on full hot get the room really steamy and set it as close as possible to the source of steam. Leave it in for a while it will loosen up.I've done this 4X.
You mean clear plastic dry wall? or how about a window? How about removing the wall and putting in glass panel? Glass block? Anything can be done, depends on your imagination. An exterior wall can be totally removed with a lintel replaced in the top, and interior wall can be totally removed with no lintel, depending on trusses, or rafter placement.If you want to leave the studs exposed in the wall, I would clean them up a bit. The problem with that is you can't clean it and the panels are subject to fogging up inside, condensation will get in there, an exterior wall is a bad idea, no insulation. Hope this helps.
if the glass actually contacts the tile you can go to the homedepot or similar place and buy some glass silicone sealer and just run a nice bead of caulk along the line, make sure you get clear silicone and let it thooroughly dry before you get it wet
curved cut glass will not always be the exact dimensions though they may look identical there should be several set screws on both the door glass frame and the shower glass frame that can be loosened and reset to make the door fit and close and open more properly without seeing the showwer itself i can not tell you exactly where they are but they should be either visible or behind a facade piece of metal frame
I scoured the internet trying to find how to clean inside the glass of my Electolux Icon double wall ovens. Short of "The Big Q-tip" method (which only made a smeared mess) I didn't find anything. So I went ahead and started taking the doors apart. I'm happy to report I just finished with fantastic results. So I'm going to do a step by step, I know I would have appreciated reading instructions for it. It's very easy but time consuming. You'll need a large work area because there are actually 4 sheets of glass, a Philips screwdriver, and a straight razor with handle.
Refer to your manual on how to take the doors off - but it's very easy. Simply open the door, flip the locks toward you and pull up and out at the same time. Be careful...the door is very heavy.
Lay door on blanket or towel, especially if it's stainless steel. There are 4 screws along each side of the door. The 2 screws that hold the hinge at the bottom are smaller than the 2 closer to the top.
On the very bottom there are two more screws to hold the bottom outer frame. Under that piece are 2 more screws that hold the inner bottom frame. That's it. Slide out the hinges and you're ready to go.
Remove those 2 frame pieces and keep in mind how they fit back together. Remove the top piece of glass and put on another towel. Now I'm not sure if it matters but I was mindful of the side of each piece of glass as I remove and cleaned them to make sure they went back exactly as they came out.
The first piece is going to be the most time consuming to clean. One took me over an hour. The grease is hard to get off because it just spreads around. I found a straight razor really sped this along, just make sure you always use the razor on wet glass or you'll scratch the glass. It's fiddly...just keep at it. I also used mineral spirits to help degrease. When done I laid this on the dining table.
The next 2 pieces of glass are in a frame that comes out together. The frame is only on the sides so be careful it doesn't come apart on you when carrying it. Inside the frame piece is a rubber gasket to separate the 2 pieces of glass. Watch how the frame comes off, there is a wide and a narrow side. It's easier to take off the frame piece and simply lift of the first piece of glass. The bottom piece of glass sits in a channel of the rubber gasket.
Pretty simple. Lots of elbow grease if you cook a lot. Reverse the order to reassemble. One thing to note - on the door sides near the top, you'll see a silver metal piece inside the black frame. Make sure the screw holes are visible thru the black frame. I have very small fingers so it was easy to do it with my fingers but I would imagine someone with large hands will have some difficulty. Also, when screwing the hinge in place I had to twist the hinge so the screw hold was up against the black frame. The screws are so short that they'll just spin without catching if you don't.
you can fix this problem by loostening the clamp screw and putting locktite sealer(you can purchase locktite from hd or lowes locktite is not the only product you can call a glass supplier and as for recommendation) Be sure to read the directions on the tube I use it to seal joints on refrigeration threaded parts. Make sure it will adhere to glass and metal also review the clean up solvent when you do this place a wood wedge at the bottom of the glass dooor and the threashold to support he weight until the sealer driese
Steps
1 Place wood wedge/block under door where non hinged side meets wall
2 losten top hinge(inspect bottom hinge to make sure it is snug and the glass dor is all the way into the hinge
3 You may have to remove the top hinge completely to get enough of the locktite on the metal and glass place the locktite on the hinge flat plate and the glass
4 recheck gap where door meets wall( I sometimes use paint stirs(wood) as shims to keep space between door and wall consistent
5 tighten top inge screws( you can put locktite on the screw threas also
6 Clean excess locktite and wait suggested time by instructions on tube
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