Question about 2006 Harley Davidson FXDBI Street Bob

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Oil seal I didn't take note of what direction this seal pointed on dissassembly. Does the 'flat' side sit towards the back of the bike and the 'open' channel side towards the engine case?? We are talkin' about part# 26227-58.

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Im looking at it in my mind, i think you got it right, if you dont get a "sure" answer, search for member name Springer. he is like God of Shovels! and is always happy to help, shoot him a PM.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Im rebuilding the water pump on my 98 marauder and i got the bearings out i noticed the balls on the first bearing were facing out but the inner bearing came out and i didnt see the way the balls were


if the bearing is open on both sides it shouldn,t matter which way it goes in , if its sealed on one side and open on the other , put open side towards inside of engine . for the oil seal question , look at seal it should have a spring around lip on center lip of seal , put it towards inside of engine , if it don,t have a spring and seal is open on one side and closed on other side , put open towadrs inside of engine

Apr 11, 2013 | 1998 Suzuki VZ 800 Marauder

1 Answer

What direction do i turn the mower over to change the blade. without getting oil in the carb.


hi there

brotherwolf

just tip the mower back so that it sits on the rear flap / exit opening ( with catcher off of course )
basically this means the spark plug will be pointing straight up towards the sky .

breathers are on the l/h side on these mowers ( only way to get oil in carb is to tip them either on their r/h or l/h side or to overfill them )

cheers pauly46

hope it helps

dont forget the thumbs rating

Jun 12, 2011 | Poulan Pro 22inch 625 Series Briggs ...

1 Answer

I need to tighten the chian on my schwinn airdyne.


Two places to tighten the chain and it requires you to loosen the nuts on BOTH sides of the bike, almost at the same time. Start at the fan wheel (top) of the bike. First thing you need to do is to loosen the little nut at the hub of the fan wheel on both sides. Unscrew it almost to the point of taking it off, but leave it screwed on the end of the bolt so it will stay on the bike. Then use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut a bit on one side and then do the same on the other side OR use both hands and loosen both at the same time by unscrewing with adjustable wrench in opposite directions on both sides. Once the wheel is loose, you want to sit in front of the bike and pull both of the large nuts at the same time toward you and the chain will tighten. The goal is to have the fan wheel centered and for you to be able to see about 1/4" inch of clear gap behind the nut on both sides. Then use your fingers to tighten the nuts to the frame just enough until you can use the adjustable wrench again. I have sometimes used a flat head screwdriver to insert into the gaps to prevent the chain from loosening up. The tighten the nut on both sides of the bike. Be sure you tighten the little nuts as well (they are called chain tensioners). That SHOULD do the trick. However, if your bike chain is still too loose, you need to do the same for the chain at the pedal area, That requires the same thing all over again, but in most cases, the chain loosens at the top part of the bike (fan wheel place). However, if you do work on the pedal area, you want the chain to be pushed toward the fan and not toward the **** side of the bike. It may sound crazy but that's the only way to tighten the chain. give me a thumbs up with my solution.

Feb 18, 2011 | Schwinn Original Airdyne

1 Answer

HI, JUST REPLACED BIG END BEARING. NOW HAVE A OIL LEAK WHICH IS COMING FROM HIGH UP, COULD EVEN BE COMING FROM AIR FILTER BOX. WAHT COULD THGIS BE, SUSPECT OIL SEAL DAMAGED AND GETTING BACK PRESSURE????


Do you know exactly where the oil is coming from? Remember the bike has an oil cooler at the front, could you have disturbed a connection and its running down the pipe?
The GS1150 is a real pain to get the precise oil level, and you may have just over filled it. As you are sitting on the bike, on the right hand side below the airbox (near the rear shouck adjuster), is a little plug. Just twist it to undo it and see if any oil comes out here.
My method to check the oil level on flat ground: After a run park the bike on its side stand for 10 mins. Place on the centre stand, wait anoth 5-10 mins, then check the oil level in the sight glass.

Feb 12, 2011 | 2003 BMW R 1150 GS Adventure

1 Answer

Have a1975 175 enduro, acts like needs timeing, can't figure out how to check or adjust. Got any help?


Before I explain the timing, I want you to check the crankshaft bearing on the left side, (shifter side), of the bike. Just remove the left side case cover and then hold the magneto firmly in your hand and then lift up and down then left and right. If the magneto is not rock solid you will need to install new crank bearings and seals. Any movement in the magneto means the timing will be jumping around.

Now, the timing. This bike is timed at 1.8mm BTC. Race timing is 2.0mm BTC.. You need a dial guage and an olmmeter to set it properly. Remove the spark plug then screw the dial gage mount into the spark plug hole. GENTLY run the piston towards TDC. At tdc setthe guage to zero then back the piston down, still on the compression stroke. Attach the olmmeter to the points and to ground. Run the pisten back towards TDC and set the points such that they open at the 1.8 or 2.0mm advance point. Setting the points is simply a matter of rotating the points base plate left or right as needed to achive opening at the proper piston position, 1.8 or 2.0..

There is a notch in the base plate which you can use to set the points. You can make the adjustment by loosning the base plate and useing a flat screwdriver to move the base plate. It has been 30 years since I worked on a 175 Yamaha. I dont recall if the magneto has a timing mark on it or not. I think it does. If so, the first of two marks is the timing mark. The second mark is TDC. You can start the bike then use a timing light to check the timing. Stop the engine, make an adjustment, start again and check with the timing light, etc., etc., until is is set where it should be. There will be a mark on the center case that the magneto marks will line up with if there are indeed marks on the magneto. It would probably be advisable to file the points as they may well be pitted from usage. Please rate my answer.

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Sep 16, 2010 | 1974 Yamaha DT 360

1 Answer

Gear oil is leaking from the seal in rear drive behind the wheel is this difficult to repar


While it is not difficult to replace the seal, this usually indicates that the main bearing in the final drive has failed and pushed out/damaged the seal causing the leak.

Put bike on center stand and hold rear wheel with both hands and 12 and 6 O'clock positions. Try to move wheel by pushing towards the side of the bike in each direction. If wheel moves more than 1-2mm then you need to have final drive repaired. You can also remove drain plug at the bottom of the final drive and see if any metal particles drain out with the oil. Use a small drain pan to catch the oil.

Sorry, but likely not an easy seal replacement to fix this problem.

Sep 11, 2010 | 2002 BMW R 1150 RT (ABS)

1 Answer

Oil leak from motor. possibly coming from side case. I'm thinking countershaft seal ?? Any ideas. I bought the bike today at an auction. I think it has been sitting for a while. It has 83500km. As I rode...


depends on what side its coming from if its the left then i would check the output shaft seal out and while near there check the gear selector shaft seal both are cheap and easy to replace and just check the other casings to see if the gaskets have started to deteriate causing a leak hope this helps

Dec 19, 2009 | 1993 kawasaki ZZR 600

1 Answer

Im installing a new clutch paw an im not sure witch way the curve of the fingers should go


I am going to assume that you're talking about the "finger" on a four speed transmission. It's difficult to explain how it's supposed to look. So, I'm going to tell you how it works. When you pull the clutch lever in, the cable pulls the clutch release arm towards the front of the bike. The "finger" straddles the throwout bearing with very tip end of the clutch release rod extending between the two "fingers" of the "finger" itself. The tip of the clutch release rod goes in the slot between the fingers. This pushed the rod towards the other side of the bike and pushes the pressure plate to the release the tension on the clutch pack.

Hold the end cover of the transmission up like you're going to put it on the transmission. The clutch release arm should point towards the center of the bike. The "fingers should point to the rear of the bike with the flat side towards the center of the bike.

Does this make sense? If not, write me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Oct 24, 2009 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

2 Answers

Oil change directions, 2003 Road King


The drain plug is on the left side of the oil reservoir pointing towards the front of the bike. The motor should be warm when you dump the oil and the o-ring should be replaced as an extra precaution (don't want to waste that new oil if you have a drip). When replacing the oil filter use a piece of tin foil to divert the oil to your waste pan.

Jul 22, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

2 Answers

Yamaha sr125 oil leek


if bike sits on side stand all fluids will drip off the left side check the front sprocket shaft seal that might be the culprit

Jan 02, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha SR 125

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