Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FXD - FXDI Dyna Super Glide

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Engine sprocket My engine sprocket keeps coming loose and falling off in the primary. What is the best way to keep this from happening? I have a 80 FLH with a straight (no compensator) splined 24 tooth sprocket. My service manual only seems to list torque for a setup with a compensator. What should I torque it as a straight sprocket? Should there be a washer, or anything? Does loctite do the trick (high temp, or red)?

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Red or blue we have used both we tighten with 1/2 in air impact gun then twist safety wire around remaining threads of motor sprocket. Next time you have to take off that sprocket nut off you will have to heat it up

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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1 Answer

How do you change a 2002 Harley Road King stator?


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary and remove the outer primay cover. Take the engine sprocket nut off, take the clutch adjuster out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the mainshaft nut. This nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster. Take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary chain off all together. Then, pull the rotor off the engine sprocket. It can be difficult to get off due to the strong magnets in it. Once off, there are four small bolts holding the stator on and two small screws holding the plug into the case. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. Torque the small Torx bolts that hold the stator on to 40 inch pounds. The engine sprocket nut torques to 150-165 foot pounds with one line of Loctite 271 heavy hold thread locker in it. The LEFT HANDED threaded mainshaft nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds with a single line of Loctite in it. You'll need a primary locking bar to keep the engine from turning while applying torque to the engine sprocket nut and the mainshaft nut.

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How to install stator


To install a stator on your Softail, you'll have to remove the outer primary, the engine drive sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly. Then, you can get to the four screws that holds the stator. The job is not that difficult if you've got a few tools and a bit of mechanical skills. The engine sprocket is quite tight and you'll probably need an air wrench or a "locking bar" to keep the engine from turning while you torque the engine nut holding the sprocket. The engine sprocket torques to 150-165 foot pounds and the clutch nut torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Some click type torque wrenches will not work in the left handed direction. The clutch nut is behind the adjuster plate in the center of the clutch assembly. Just take the snap ring out and you'll see it.

I use two 5/16" bolts about three inches long to remove the magnetic rotor. Stick the bolts just slightly in the two holes and squeeze them together so that they bind. Then pull the rotor off. Take the four torqs, out of the stator and the two screws out of the plastic plug retainer. Work the plug out of the case and lift the stator off the sprocket shaft. Install the new stator by coating the new plug with black RTV. Put the stator over the sprocket shaft and then work the plug into the hole in the engine case. Put the stator in place and put the NEW bolts that came with it in place and start them. Put the plastic plug retainer in and then torque the stator bolts to 40 inch pounds.

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I'm going to assume that you are talking about how to remove the engine sprocket from the sprocket shaft in the primary cover.

First, disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Look underneath the primary and loosen the locknut for the primary chain adjuster and loosen the primary chain by turning the screw outwards a few turns.

Then take the derby cover off the primary and remove the spring and locknut for the clutch adjustment. Remove the screws from around the primary and break it loose from the engine. Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise while removing the primary cover. Lay the primary cover aside.

Now, there is a plate in the center of the clutch assembly held in with a circlip. Remove the circlip. Now you'll need either an air wrench or a locking bar to lock the primary to prevent it from turning so you can get the clutch hub nut and the engine sprocket nut off. The engine nut has right hand threads and comes off normally. The clutch hub nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS and you must turn it in reverse. Once you get the two nuts off, you can usually grab the engine sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift those two units and the chain off at once. Sometimes you may need a puller to get the engine sprocket off but usually it just comes right off.

Installation is the reverse with the engine nut being torques to 150 foot pounds and the clutch hub nut torqued to 60 foot pounds left handed.

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1 Answer

How do i remove clutch main shaft nut 1984 fxrt


The nut has left-handed threads. It should be torqued to about 80 foot pounds max. I usually use an air wrench but you may need a "primary locking bar" to wedge between the two primary sprockets to keep things from turning on you.

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1 Answer

How does the primary drive come off a harley 1450B twin cam engine


You'll have to take the left floorboard off then just take the bolts out of the outer primary cover. It'll come right off.

Now, if you haven't already done so, disconnect the battery, You do want to keep all your fingers. The compensator sprocket at the front of the engine comes off by taking the nut off. It's very tight, 150-165 foot pounds. To get the clutch off, in the middle of the clutch assembly there is a plate with a screw and nut in it and it's held in by a snap ring. Take this plate out. There is a nut behind the plate, Remove it. It has 60-80 foot pounds of torque and has "LEFTHANDED THREADS". Take the nut off the primary chain adjuster and lift the whole mess right out.

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Jul 26, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

1 Answer

On the left hand side of my bike behind the covers of i think gear box starting to make a nasty noiseits a year 2000 night train model


Well, you didn't tell me under what circumstances it makes the noise so I'm going to assume it makes the noise constantly or pretty near so.

There are several things that can cause this. The primary chain needing adjusting is the most common. If it gets too loose, it will run the inside of the case at the top front. To check the tension, remove the oval inspection cover. The top run of the chain should have 5/8" to 7/8" up and down play in the middle of the run. To adjust, loosen the nut on the shoe and move it up or down.

Also the sprocket shaft nut that holds the compensator sprocket on could have come loose. This nut requires quite a lot of torque and if someone has worked on it and didn't get it tight enough, I've seen them come loose and the nut rubs on the inside of the outer cover. Drain the oil in the primay and pull the outer cover off. If the nut is loose, remove it and put two lines of Loctite #271 (red) in the nut and retighten the nut to 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You must have a way to lock the primary up and keep the engine from turning to get this much torque on the nut. We use what is known as a locking bar that fits in the sprocket teeth of both the compensator sprocket and the clutch hub.

The other thing is not enough oil in the primay. It should have between 36-42 ounces of oil in the primary.

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1 Answer

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Have you checked the front final drive chain sprocket. These sprockets are quite often neglected since they are so difficult to get to. You must pull the inner prirmary to get to it. The old four speed transmission is a tough ****** and I don't recall ever seeing one fail unless it was run with no oil. Check your final drive chain. Shine a flashlight behind the inner primary and check the teeth on front sprocket.

Jul 05, 2010 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

1982 harley sportster xlh . died comming down a hill . lost compression . no spark but have electric. pistons not moving. will not push start. help trying to find a manual to see engine break down and...


Sounds like you have lost something in your primary. If you lost say the primary chain, the starter wouldn't work nor could you push start the bike. In other words, you cannot get the engine to turn over. I'd pull the primary cover off and have a look in there. Those bikes were notorious for the engine sprocket nut coming loose.

Drain the oil out of the primay by removing the drain plug underneath the primary. While you're under the primary, loosen the lock nut on the primary chain adjuster and back the adjuster out a bit. Now, remove the large round clutch adjuster access plug and remove the small spring and locknut. Remove all the bolts around the primary cover. As you remove the outer primary cover, you'll have to turn the clutch adjuster screw inwards until the cover comes free. Now the cover should be off.

If you have something wrong in the primary, it should be obvious. The chain will be loose because you have backed off on the adjuster to get the outer primary off. Look for a loose engine sprocket or something wrong with the clutch assembly. If you need anymore help, come back here to repost or contact me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

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1 Answer

Have noise in front of primary only with passenger on bike in second gear knocking clattering sound from


Sound like a loose Compensator nut.

The compensator nut is the part (the nut) that attaches the front sprocket to the motor crank.

When a cylinder of a v-twin fires there is a very strong power pulse. To keep from shaking the bike and rider apart these pulses have to be "smoothed" out. Harley does this by NOT solidly attaching the front sprocket to the engine - they use a "compensating sprocket".

A crank shaft extension, double sprocket, sliding cam, and a stiff spring together form a "compensating sprocket". When a cylinder fires, the power stroke is smoothed out by the action of the compensator cam and springs.

The compensator nut is what holds the compensating sprocket assembly on the crank.

There are a LOT of forces acting on this nut and sometimes the nut loosens up. A loose compensator nut results in a compensating sprocket that can move laterally on the crank. A loose compensator nut therefore is one potential source of engine vibration.

Harley-Davidson issued service bulletin a while back that changed the procedure for tightening the compensator nut, after a spate of bikes had problems with this nut working loose.

Check with your local Dealer to get the correct torque spec and procedure for your year bike.

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