Question about 2008 Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide

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Cuting vibration I have a shovel that I want to rebuild from the ground up....I want some real world advice from shovelhead riders This is not my first bike....Been around bikes my whole life....I am also a mechanic so working on them is not problem The bike runs and rides.....But I want to clean it up and change a few things It started life out as a 79 Lowrider I am not sure if the internials are stock or aftermarket performance parts Engine is .030 over that has had the top end rebuilt about 10 years ago....Miles are unkown so I will be doing a complete engine and drive line rebuild My riding style is back roads from small town too small town with some HWY riding.....I usually run the posted speed limits 25-75 mph Here are the questions that I have I want to change the front end on it....Want to put a narrow glide on it......Will EVO front ends bolt up without any problems....I like the looks of the 39mm tubes compaired to the 35mm tubes I want to cut down on the vibrations at speeds above 55mph....Tires are balanced....Whats the best sprocket combo I know the engine & clutch shell are stock from the factory but not sure on the count.....Transmission sprocket is 24 and the rear sprocket is 47.....Bike will run like a raped ape in all gears I am not into racing so being last off the line is not an issue with me.....Just want to be able to cruise down the HWY at 75 mph without having parts fall off or my nuts going numb Will converting this over to rear belt drive help cut down on the vibration or will it just be a waste of money If anyone else knows of any tricks of the trade to help reduce the vibrations....Let me know because I am always open to advice

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Two other things that havent been mentioned are if you are still running a primary chain step up the compensator sprocket to a 24 this will bring the final rpms down.Or you can go to a primary belt set up.( I am going to this on my 72 FLH)

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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I can give you a couple of hints on the vibration thing that few folks think about. First, since you are doing a complete rebuild, spend some time on the cylinder heads. A major cause of that nasty buzz is unequal compression between cylinders. An inconsistant valve job, heads that have been milled or weak valve springs can contribute to this.
Another thing is the clutch. In '79 the dry clutch was still in use, but sometimes on the highway you might have a slight slippage that you cannot detect by listening to the engine. When you tear it down, look at the friction plates for greasy or shiny areas. This clutch is very tough and worth keeping, so sandblast the plates unless they are ruined, make sure the friction face of the pressure plate is flat and replace the ten springs. I qualify as a shovel man because I own a '71 super glide that I bought 35 years ago.

Posted on Dec 25, 2008

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Hi, I ride a 1984 shovelhead flh. My riding style seems to be like yours. A couple of things that I did on my bike to help with vibration were to install the polyurethane riser busings and use some cushioned grips. These solid mount shovels will have some vibes. If your engine is well balanced and you use loctite on your fasteners it should help cut down on the vibes. Also make sure that your steering head bearings and swingarm bearings are good because they can have an adverse affect on handling. I know that others who are more knowledgeable will also make some great suggestions. I have been hanging around and looking at these posts for a while and just decided to join. Also i think that if you stay with the rear chain setup you will have more and less expensive final gear ratio options to play with. My bike runs the 32 tooth front pulley and a 70 tooth rear belt setup and could use a little taller top end at 75 but it works for me with little vibration. Reducing the rpm's at higher speeds will certainly make your ride more comfortable.Good luck on your project.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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