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Re: stuck in gear, shift level stuck down
It happened twice to me so far (700 miles and 2700 miles). You can absolutely use roadside assistance. I did last time. I had the dealer come 2 hours away to get it. I **** to Ducati NA first. It cost over $1k to fix the first time because they said that there was some damage from the spring. I don't know what the bill came to the second time. You definately should notify ducati NA ( I assume that you are in the USA?) to notify them of the problem and your dissapointment to be sure that they oversee the repair and expedite parts and service at your dealer.
From what I gathered, the shifter lever is over extending on downshifts. The mechanism needs adjustment (the stops as it was explained to me) so it doesn't continue to brake the return spring. The service manager at my dealer explained that Ducati has a new method of repairing the problem that is supposed to prohibit it from happening again. They are not too quick to call it a technical service bulletin (TSB), but that is what it looks like to me.
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sounds like the clutch is toast though it could be other things assuming its not just stuck ie does the clutch lever return after you press it, if so you could try draining the oil out and pass it through a sieve, if there are bits of friction plate in it then the clutch has definatley disintegrated, if the lever stays in then the push rod may be damaged/stuck or the worm drive may be stuck. does the bike go into gear without pressing the clutch lever or stalling?, if the clutch was slipping prior to it stopping then this is likely a knackered clutch, it could also be the wrong oil in the gearbox or perhaps no oil in the gearbox, does the bike go into gear? does it go through all 6 gears and into neutral? more info is needed and even then without looking its hard to say but my guess would be the clutch is fried
the clutch adjustment could cause this issue , to adjust unscrew the clutch cable lock nut at the lever and screw the inner nut out then try gear change , do not for get to retighten the lock nut , it's just like a bycyle brake adjustment
Get after the guy who ran the light and have him/her pay for either the clutch handle mechanism jammed, or worse shift lever jammed in and pooched the transmission. Either way you\'re looking at some work. Follow your clutch cable back to where it moves the lever going into the trans and be sure it\'s actually disengaging the clutch, be sure the shift lever isn\'t bent and binding on the frame or elsewhere. Bets of luck to you, I pray you\'re not as banged up as your ride.
If the other driver was texting or goofing off on their cell phone, sue their pants off.
The gears on a motorcycle run in this order: first, neutral,
second, third, fourth and fifth. When you are moving, shifting up from
first gear will skip over neutral and shift you right into second gear.
The only time that shifting up from first will get you into neutral is
when you are not moving.
Pull in the clutch lever and tap the gear lever down until
it stops. This will signify first gear. Pressing the gear lever down
will shift you down one step and pressing it up will shift up one step.
Tap the gear lever up one click while still holding in the clutch. This will put the bike into neutral.
Start the bike. The bike needs to be in neutral to start.
Hold in the clutch lever and tap the shifting lever down to shift to first gear.
Release the clutch slowly and give it just enough gas to get moving.
Listen to the motor to know when you need to shift. If the
engine is making a low grumbling noise, then it will need to be shifted
down. If it is making a high squealing noise, then it needs to be
hi, if when you start your bike you press the gear lever down to go to 1st from neutral and then pull it back up to go to 2nd,3rd,4th and 5th then the only way to get back into first gear is to press the gear lever down 4 times to get it back into 1st gear their is no quicker way to do this you have to work your way back down the gears.
if your coming to a stop quick then just pull the clutch in and keep pushing the lever down until it dont push down any further it will only go down 1 gear at a time so you will need to push it down 4 times but you dont need to count you can just keep pressing it down the gears until it dont go down any more then you know this is first, you need to keep the clutch in when doing this.
how ever if your slowing down is more gradual then what you can do is go from 5th down to 4th then let engine slow the bike down then when the revs drop down change down to 3rd and so on until you get ot 1st gear.
if your coming to a stop quick say at lights or junction then if the bike is in 5th gear then you can change down the gears once the bike has stopped just hold the clutch in when you stop and keep tapping the gear lever down until you feel that its not going down any more gears this way you know its in 1st without having to cound down the gears, their id no quicker way of going down the gears to get to 1st.
i hope i have read your question right and gave you the answer you was looking for if i got the question wrong then please explain then i can assist you further ok
The clutch lever should have some tension, so could be a problem with the hydraulic actuator stuck, or a failure of the clutch. try bleeding the clutch, or pull the clutch cover off and see if the pressure plate moves
If it will go into gear with the engine not running and won't go into gear with the engine running, you still have air in your clutch line. I suggest starting @ the clutch master cylinder and bleed the MC by cracking the banjo bolt loose @ the MC. Crank it loose no more than 1/4 turn after you pumped the lever a few times. After the lever hits the grip, tighten it back up and do it again Keep doing that till no air exits the system. Work your way down to the slave cylinder, bleeding the line at each junction you come to. If you still don't have good lever, the slave could be assembled incorrectly or the MC is not up to par anymore. If you have rubber lines on your hydraulic clutch, you can test the air in the lines theory by wrapping a rag several times around the line then pinch it off with a pair of needle nose pliers. Do this close to the master cylinder. If the lever gets hard instantly, you have just confirmed you have air in your lines. You can do the same test each staep of the way down to the slave cylinder. If you cross a point where all of a sudden you loose good lever, that is where the air in the system is. If you bleed all the way down through the slave cylinder and still don't get air, you could have an assembly issue. The other possibility is the clutch plates are stuck together. If the bike has been sitting for awhile, that is a high probability. To fix that, start the bike and ride it around in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Keep revving the throttle as you ride the bike slowly in a safe area away from cars, people and other MC. That may take awhile to do, the oil may have to come up to temp, so it could take up to 30 minutes.
Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.