Mounting 620 tires

unbolt wheel and using tire spoons or the handle of flat ware [as long as its strong enough to not bend ]place inbetween the tire bead and rim and pry up and over rim now either use another to pry again next to spoon or slide spoon under and slide around rim removing tire reach in and remove tube check inner tire for debris fix or replace tube install
How to change and fix flat bike tire Trek Bicycle How to Fix Flat Bike Tire

Have the strut mounts checked, both upper and lower mounts.

Balanced Drive Shaft ?

Rear Wheel Bearings ?

Shocks ?

Tried Tires in different locations

Rotate the tires and see if it follows. If it does then u need tires or u might have a bent rim. If it doesn't then check u joints, leaf springs, u bolts, bushings.

Hello,

Dismount back wheel, empty all air from tire, then use the disassemblers to get tire off.

Mount new tire -I will advice to use something like "Slime" to seal tire chamber...

Mount wheel again, and inflate.

You should be on track again

Good luck

PS: You could also see this: Changing a Road Bike Tire

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5K-DXt9djA

Mount them so that the label (serfas) is on the right side (gear side) of the bike. They are not specifically directional.

Directional tires will always have an arrow on the side of the tire telling you which way the tire is intended to rotate, there-by telling you which way to mount.

I change the oil & filter every 2500mi; this boils down to maybe once every 2 months or so. I've been buying K&N filters since the last 2 Ducati-brand filters I've used have either blown out or just been crap; either way they're around $10-12/ea or there are possibly cheaper alternatives, but I haven't looked. I've been using Golden Spectro full-synth 10w40 which my local shop hooks me up with for $5-7/bottle. I usually buy 3 at a pop. Adjust your numbers accordingly by mileage, brands, flavors & frequency. Tires are a trickier question. A harder compound, touring-type tire will get you more miles, possibly at the expense of grip. If you're a straight-up-and-down rider or spend a vast majority of your time on the superslab, it's probably worth your penny to aim for this type of tire. If you're a hooligan or like to try & scrub the manufacturer's name off the sidewall of the tire, these tires won't do you any good. The general concensus is: the stickier you get, expect fewer miles (but quite possibly more smiles); the harder you get, expect more miles but possibly less grip - so adjust your antics accordingly. There is also a happy medium to be had - and I'm finding this on my Pilot Powers, at the moment. Great grip, and I've been abusing them for a while now. In terms of price ... you can generally expect to pay for them in person at your local shop than if you order them online. However, when you take them to your local shop to get them mounted, expect to make up the difference or close to it. So far, it's been cheaper for me to order them online and have my shop mount them - but I also bring them the rims off the bike. If I brought them the bike and the new sneakers, there's a $10-15 surcharge for putting the bike on the rack to pull the tires off. I usually pay $20/tire for mount & balance, and I bring my old rubber back with me (or pay another $5/tire to let the shop dispose of it). Every once in a while you'll find a manufacturer doing some sort of "buy a rear, we'll send you a front" deal - both Pirelli and Avon did this last year, and I took advantage of Avon's offer & scored a new pair of meats for about $160, all told - call it $200 w/ M&B. But generally, I think you can expect to pay anywhere from $225-350 for a pair, mounted, depending what you buy & from whom. In terms of valve service, if you're at all handy, you could do it yourself. First time might be a little scary, but after you've lost your virginity it's a piece of cake. I think shop charge is like $350 for a 2v engine (your 620) valve service?, but I honestly wouldn't know. Personally, I also have a gas hog (an old Land Rover Disco I - maybe 13-15mpg), but I don't ride for that reason. The only reason I have a truck is to haul stuff around when I have to, but primarily because mrs.fasterdammit won't let me buy an enduro w/ knobbies to ride in the winter here (we get 3' of snow at a pop). So I need a cage once in while. But last year I only put 2500 miles on my truck all year. My advice is keep the bike because you enjoy it; don't rationalize it, just enjoy it. If rationalizing MPG makes you feel better, great - but only think about that when you're behind the wheel. Just think about riding while you're in the saddle.

I change the oil & filter every 2500mi; this boils down to maybe once every 2 months or so. I've been buying K&N filters since the last 2 Ducati-brand filters I've used have either blown out or just been crap; either way they're around $10-12/ea or there are possibly cheaper alternatives but I haven't looked. I've been using Golden Spectro full-synth 10w40 which my local shop hooks me up with for $5-7/bottle. I usually buy 3 at a pop. Adjust your numbers accordingly by mileage brands flavors & frequency. Tires are a trickier question. A harder compound, touring-type tire will get you more miles, possibly at the expense of grip. If you're a straight-up-and-down rider or spend a vast majority of your time on the superslab, it's probably worth your penny to aim for this type of tire. If you're a hooligan or like to try & scrub the manufacturer's name off the sidewall of the tire, these tires won't do you any good. The general concensus is: the stickier you get, expect fewer miles (but quite possibly more smiles); the harder you get, expect more miles but possibly less grip - so adjust your antics accordingly. There is also a happy medium to be had - and I'm finding this on my Pilot Powers, at the moment. Great grip, and I've been abusing them for a while now. In terms of price ... you can generally expect to pay for them in person at your local shop than if you order them online. However, when you take them to your local shop to get them mounted, expect to make up the difference or close to it. So far, it's been cheaper for me to order them online and have my shop mount them - but I also bring them the rims off the bike. If I brought them the bike and the new sneakers, there's a $10-15 surcharge for putting the bike on the rack to pull the tires off. I usually pay $20/tire for mount & balance, and I bring my old rubber back with me (or pay another $5/tire to let the shop dispose of it). Every once in a while you'll find a manufacturer doing some sort of buy a rear, we'll send you a front deal - both Pirelli and Avon did this last year, and I took advantage of Avon's offer & scored a new pair of meats for about $160, all told - call it $200 w/ M&B. But generally, I think you can expect to pay anywhere from $225-350 for a pair, mounted, depending what you buy & from whom. In terms of valve service, if you're at all handy, you could do it yourself. First time might be a little scary, but after you've lost your virginity it's a piece of cake. I think shop charge is like $350 for a 2v engine (your 620) valve service?, but I honestly wouldn't know. Personally, I also have a gas hog (an old Land Rover Disco I - maybe 13-15mpg), but I don't ride for that reason. The only reason I have a truck is to haul stuff around when I have to, but primarily because mrs.fasterdammit won't let me buy an enduro w/ knobbies to ride in the winter here (we get 3' of snow at a pop). So I need a cage once in while. But last year I only put 2500 miles on my truck all year. My advice is keep the bike because you enjoy it; don't rationalize it, just enjoy it. If rationalizing MPG makes you feel better, great - but only think about that when you're behind the wheel. Just think about riding while you're in the saddle,,,

I change the oil & filter every 2500mi; this boils down to maybe once every 2 months or so. I've been buying K&N filters since the last 2 Ducati-brand filters I've used have either blown out or just been crap; either way they're around $10-12/ea or there are possibly cheaper alternatives but I haven't looked. I've been using Golden Spectro full-synth 10w40 which my local shop hooks me up with for $5-7/bottle. I usually buy 3 at a pop. Adjust your numbers accordingly by mileage brands flavors & frequency. Tires are a trickier question. A harder compound, touring-type tire will get you more miles, possibly at the expense of grip. If you're a straight-up-and-down rider or spend a vast majority of your time on the superslab, it's probably worth your penny to aim for this type of tire. If you're a hooligan or like to try & scrub the manufacturer's name off the sidewall of the tire, these tires won't do you any good. The general concensus is: the stickier you get, expect fewer miles (but quite possibly more smiles); the harder you get, expect more miles but possibly less grip - so adjust your antics accordingly. There is also a happy medium to be had - and I'm finding this on my Pilot Powers, at the moment. Great grip, and I've been abusing them for a while now. In terms of price ... you can generally expect to pay for them in person at your local shop than if you order them online. However, when you take them to your local shop to get them mounted, expect to make up the difference or close to it. So far, it's been cheaper for me to order them online and have my shop mount them - but I also bring them the rims off the bike. If I brought them the bike and the new sneakers, there's a $10-15 surcharge for putting the bike on the rack to pull the tires off. I usually pay $20/tire for mount & balance, and I bring my old rubber back with me (or pay another $5/tire to let the shop dispose of it). Every once in a while you'll find a manufacturer doing some sort of buy a rear, we'll send you a front deal - both Pirelli and Avon did this last year, and I took advantage of Avon's offer & scored a new pair of meats for about $160, all told - call it $200 w/ M&B. But generally, I think you can expect to pay anywhere from $225-350 for a pair, mounted, depending what you buy & from whom. In terms of valve service, if you're at all handy, you could do it yourself. First time might be a little scary, but after you've lost your virginity it's a piece of cake. I think shop charge is like $350 for a 2v engine (your 620) valve service?, but I honestly wouldn't know. Personally, I also have a gas hog (an old Land Rover Disco I - maybe 13-15mpg), but I don't ride for that reason. The only reason I have a truck is to haul stuff around when I have to, but primarily because mrs.fasterdammit won't let me buy an enduro w/ knobbies to ride in the winter here (we get 3' of snow at a pop). So I need a cage once in while. But last year I only put 2500 miles on my truck all year. My advice is keep the bike because you enjoy it; don't rationalize it, just enjoy it. If rationalizing MPG makes you feel better, great - but only think about that when you're behind the wheel. Just think about riding while you're in the saddle,,,