Question about 2008 Ducati Monster S4Rs Testastretta

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Lube clutch throwout bearing

I am about to put in a new clutch throwout bearing, do I need to lube it before pressing onto the pressure plate

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You can grease the push rod ends if you're intent on greasing up something.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Clutch won't disengage.


Hi, Jeffrey may be faulty throwout bearing/mechanism for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8526
Clutch will not disengage
MANUAL CLUTCHES
Clutch won fully disengage after change Ducati ms The Ultimate Ducati Forum

Apr 28, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

HOW DO I CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND PLATES 2008 FLHTCU?


Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.


FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.


After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

I have 1989....1340evo the clutch pressure plate has A B C on it. Which letter do I use. All letters bolt up the same...


The part you are talking about is not the pressure plate. The part you are looking is a black nylon plate with ten holes in it with three pair of them marked with either "A", "B", or "C". If you look real close you'll see that they are different depths for each set of holes. This part is called a RammJet Retainer. It's what holds the outer clutch drum onto the inner hub and the bearings. It is an aftermarket part designed to smooth the operation of the clutch. You clutch is the older Shovelhead design. Later, Harley went to the newer design. To choose which set of holes to use, first look and choose the deepest set fo holes and install it with the snap rings. You use a dial indicator to measure the endplay (in and out play) of the outer clutch drum. You want to set the endplay to between 0.010" and 0.030". By choosing the shallower holes, it positions the nylon plate closer to the edge of the outer clutch drum thereby limiting the in and out play. When you put it on, you will use either all "A" holes, all "B" holes, or all "C" holes.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 04, 2011 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLSTFI Fat Boy

1 Answer

Dead clutch lever


http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-yzf-r6mmc-2000_model10891/partslist/

The clutch cable actuates an axle with a gear at the other end. This gear bears against step gears on the thrust rod, which pushes against clutch. Make sure there is a circlip at BOTH ends of this axle. When replacing cover, ensure axle is returned fully with handlever out, and spring is in place on actuating fulcrum of the axle. Thrust rod must bear against roller bearing of the clutch pressure plate. Make sure step gears engage at first tooth when operating handlever. The above link provides an exploded view of the entire bike in appropriate sections as an aid.
Cheers.

May 04, 2010 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

2 Answers

Why does my aprilia rs 125 clutch pressure plate keep breaking?


if your not tensioning them properly and evenly they will do that

have you also replaced the springs?

you really need the manual to do this if you are not familliar with the procedure.

Nov 13, 2009 | 1999 Aprilia RS 125 Extrema

1 Answer

Thought i burnt the clutch out on my wr,at a recent t and t,the bike wouldnt move when in gear with the lever released,so i replaced the clutch plates and oil,i can start the bike ,put in gear,when i let...


Please pardon my response if it is too simple, but did you correctly align the pressure plate (Center part that tops the clutch plates and has springs bolted through it.) with the inner clutch basket (the part inside the clutch basket that the pressure plates spline onto)? If this is not aligned, the pressure plate will not fully engage the clutch plates. Both parts usually have an indicator mark that shows proper alignment.

Nov 09, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha WR 450 F

2 Answers

2007 yz450f has a low rumble when clutch is out all the way


The bearing for the clutch outer drum may be worn. The adjustment on the handlebars is to set lever free play(about 1/2 inch) before the cable becomes tight and operates the clutch release inside. Make sure the outer drum cover is tight--check with the clutch lever to make sure the plate releases the disks and plates.

Oct 28, 2009 | 2004 Yamaha YZ 450 F

1 Answer

Im installing a new clutch paw an im not sure witch way the curve of the fingers should go


I am going to assume that you're talking about the "finger" on a four speed transmission. It's difficult to explain how it's supposed to look. So, I'm going to tell you how it works. When you pull the clutch lever in, the cable pulls the clutch release arm towards the front of the bike. The "finger" straddles the throwout bearing with very tip end of the clutch release rod extending between the two "fingers" of the "finger" itself. The tip of the clutch release rod goes in the slot between the fingers. This pushed the rod towards the other side of the bike and pushes the pressure plate to the release the tension on the clutch pack.

Hold the end cover of the transmission up like you're going to put it on the transmission. The clutch release arm should point towards the center of the bike. The "fingers should point to the rear of the bike with the flat side towards the center of the bike.

Does this make sense? If not, write me directly at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Oct 24, 2009 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 S

1 Answer

Clutch Problems


slave cylinder and line were replaced at a local dealership. Last year prior to the repair the clutch wouldn't disengage once the clutch had warmed up. It was working fine after the repair. Now along with the new problems there is a whining sound at every speed that I travel at. The sound had never been there before. During operation after the bike is moving the bike operates normally no slipping in the clutch no hesitation, operates as normal just doesn't sound normal. I'm thinking about replacing the clutch pack, basket, throwout bearing, and pressure plate bolts, but will all that really solve the problem. Especially since I don't really know whats going on. Sorry for the wordiness but any help would be appreciated,I had a similar symptom after installing a new Barnett clutch pack. The clutch worked fine when fully engaged, finding neutral was fine, etc. However, everynow and then, when taking off from a stop in first, the engagement point would change from the middle of the lever range to the end of the lever range. The first time it happened it caught me out and I almost fell over while trying to take off from an uphill stop and turn. Anyway, I took the clutch pack out, cleaned the friction plates with contact cleaner, cleaned the drive plates with a Scotchbrite pad, and put it back together. The problem has not reoccurred since.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2001 Ducati 996 R

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