Question about 2005 Ducati Monster S4R

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S4R ECU/PCIII/Open Air Box Question

I have a question about changing the air box on my S4R. I hear that going with an open air box will require extreme ECU/ PC changes and could be costly. Any suggestions? Thanks

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I have the same mods. on my ST4s and went with the DP ecu , basically if you open up the airbox you should match the fueling (DP ecu or PC111) to get it to work well. Is it worth the effort? Yes, the mid range fills in and there is a horsepower increase on top. I noticed in situations where I required a downshift or two I now no longer do (degreeing my cams gave a simular result). Thats my 2 cents.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Hi everybody. I have a Ducati s4r 996 i have exhaust system open airbox with k&n filter and some tweaking on the Co trim, the bike runs a little bit rich but this is just until the power commander to...


No, not the spark plugs. Likely a limp mode from the bikes ECU. Your air box and filter modes may cause a lean fuel condition, not rich. Wait till you get and install your Power Commander. The ECU should reset when you disconnect the battery for the PC install. Make sure you get the right map for your PC.

Oct 28, 2013 | Motorcycles

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Hi, I have a 2007/8 Yamaha R1...............I changed the ECU unit and the clock is showing a code 22 error.................please assist me ASAP.....................!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dave cell no: ...


Fault code No. 22 Symptom Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected.


Diagnostic code No. 05 Air temperature sensor
Orde
r
Item/components and probable
cause Check or maintenance job
Reinstatement
method
1 Connections
? Air temperature sensor coupler
? Main wire harness ECU coupler
? Check the coupler for any pins
that may have pulled out.
? Check the locking condition of
the coupler.
? If there is a malfunction, repair it
and connect the coupler
securely.
Reinstated
automatically if
a normal signal
is received.
2 Open or short circuit in wire harness. ? Repair or replace if there is an
open or short circuit.
? Between air temperature sensor
coupler and ECU coupler.
(Brown/White?Brown/White)
(Black/Blue?Black/Blue)
3 Defective air temperature sensor. ? Execute the diagnostic mode.
(Code No.05)
? Replace if defective.


thx to Mr Ravine.

Feb 12, 2011 | Yamaha YZF-R1 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Frequent stalling if not let warm up for exception long time. It may stall when initially taking off, or after riding for few minutes when slowing down or stopping. When engine stalls, the clock always...


That is possible but most likely there is a sensor not connected and the ECU thinks the engine is hot making the mixture very lean and cutting the engine when it cools down slightly.
Why didn't the Victory dealer put it on his ECU checker and engine diagnostics programme?

Jan 04, 2011 | 2003 Victory V 92 C

1 Answer

I have a 07 yamaha r1 and im getting 2 codes 22 and 60 and im not getting a throtle response what can it be?


Fault code No. 22 Symptom >> Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected.
Item/components and probable cause
1 Connections Air temperature sensor coupler Main wire harness ECU coupler Check the coupler for any pins that may have pulled out. Check the locking condition of the coupler. If there is a malfunction, repair it and connect the coupler securely. 2 Open or short circuit in wire harness. Repair or replace if there is an open or short circuit. Between air temperature sensor coupler and ECU coupler.(Brown/White)(Black/Blue) 3 Defective air temperature sensor. > Replace if defective.
Code 22 > Reinstated automatically if a normal signal is received.


Fault code No.: 60 Symptom: Throttle servo motor: open or short circuit detected. Defective throttle servo motor. Malfunction in ECU (servo motor driving system). Probable cause of malfunction: •Open or short circuit in wire harness. •Defective throttle servo motor (potentiometer circuit). •Stuck throttle servo motor (mechanism). •Stuck throttle servo motor (motor). •Malfunction in ECU. Diagnostic code No.: 01 FIRST thing to do is CHECK the ETV Fuse - 7.5A I think - This might NOT be in the main fuse box.
Hope this helps

Jul 13, 2010 | 2007 Yamaha YZF-R1

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I have mucuni flat top sliders smooth bore they rattle when idling is that normal


If you can hear your Mikuni carbs "rattling" evidently you have changed the air box on your bike. The stock air box does two things, filter the air going into your engine and quieten intake noise. If you've changed or modified your air box in order to get better performance, you'll have to learn to live with more intake noise. The "rattle" you hear is really not a rattle. It is the "intake pulse" of each piston sucking air into the cylinder. Even at idle speeds, it does this so fast at to make it sound like a rattle. At higher speeds, it's so fast that you can't hear it most of the time. If the bike is idling at 1000 RPM, envision the piston moving up and down in the cylinder 1000 times a minute or 16 times a second. Every other time is an intake stroke, 8 times a second.

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Yamaha raptor 660 bogs out at high rpms while in gear?


As long as you haven't CHANGED any components like the exhaust or air filter (which typically require rejetting), you may want to try and clean and re-oil your air filter and air box. A clogged or dirty air filter will change your fuel/air mixture, expecially in the top end when the carb venturi is completely opened and needing to draw in the most air possible. hope this helps.

Sep 12, 2009 | 2001 Yamaha XTZ 660

1 Answer

2006 yamaha straoliner, engine code 37 comes up


Displayed Fault Codes For The ‘Liners
  • 12 - Crankshaft Position Sensor <<Dead Engine>>
  • 13 - Cyl #1 Intake Air Pressure sensor (open or shorted)
  • 14 - Cyl #1 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (hose system) - Clogged or detached
  • 15 - Throttle Position Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 17 - EXUP Servo Motor Ckt. (open or shorted)
  • 18 - EXUP Motor Locked Up – Frozen
  • 19 - Blue/Black ECU wire broken or disconnected <<Dead Engine>>
  • 22 - Air Temp Sensor (in headlight) (open or shorted)
  • 24 - O2 Sensor – No Normal Signal Received
  • 25 - Cyl #2 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 26 - Cyl #2 Intake Air Pressure Sensor (hose system) - Clogged or detached
  • 28 - Engine Temp. Sensor (open or shorted)
  • 30 - Lean Angle Sensor Latched Up (Bike Laid Down) <<Dead Engine>>
  • 33 - Cyl #1 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 34 - Cyl #2 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 35 - Cyl #1 L. or R. Faulty Ignition coil << May Run >>
  • 36 - Cyl #2 L. or R. Faulty Ignition Coil << May Run >>
  • 37 - ESC Valve Stuck Open (Engine Speed Control / High Idle Speed)
  • 41 - Lean Angle Sensor (open or shorted) <<Dead Engine>>
  • 42 - Speed Sensor – No Normal Signals Received OR Neutral Switch (open or shorted)
  • 43 - Fuel System Voltage (ECU Unable to Monitor Batt. Voltage)
  • 44 - Error In Writing Amount Of CO Adjustment To EEPROM
  • 46 - Voltage To F.I. System Not Normal
  • 50 - ECU Internal Failure – Memory Check <<Dead Engine>>
  • 70 - Engine Idling Stop – After 20 Minutes Of Idling

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1 Answer

Power comand


from the DP kits and open airbox mods and what not I think the best place to start from would be a PCIII. Now there aren't too many dynos in Ireland and even fewer skilled operators so I'd probably be relying on the expertise of the wider community. As mentioned I have a 2002 ST4s that has Remus aluminium cans that are stamped not for road use. The previous owner has told me that a Ducati shop set the bike up for these cans. If anyone has something similar and a PCIII with a suitable map, I'd love to hear from you. I was going to go to Ferraci to get the PCIII as they might have a suitable map they could preload too. The onloy problem is import duty, which is a pain. It runs at about 20%. So, any wisdom, anecdotes, or just wild encouragement people might want to share, go right ahead.,I am running a PC3 with Open Airbox , K&N Filter , Sil Cans and Iridium plugs and I am having to run with a map supplied by another owner with a similar set-up however it does have some peculiar and inconsistent fueling issues which I need to overcome with a proper dyno-run. (E.G. Higher Fuel Co-sump at 80 mph than 100 mph) I would recommend that you investigate the nearest PC3 Dyno technician (I appreciate this may not be convenient , Its the same here in the NE of Scotland) and have it mapped correctly which it really should have anyway even if it came with a map from Ferracci as each engine is different in its requirements. This is something I will be having done this winter as I would not want to run long-term without knowing the fueling was correct for many reasons apart from fuel co-sump. When I get the work done I will post the results but it wont be for a few months yet. From a different angle , have you already changed your sprocket set-up ? Quickest to try is a 14 T Engine Sprocket which doesn't require a longeer chain , a better arrangement is to keep the OEM 15T and increase the rear from its OEM 38 to at least 41 (I have 43T but find it a little to short geared so will try the 41 next time out). This tends to address the lumpy low speed riding for most people.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2004 Ducati ST4S

1 Answer

Power comand


from the DP kits and open airbox mods and what not I think the best place to start from would be a PCIII. Now there aren't too many dynos in Ireland and even fewer skilled operators so I'd probably be relying on the expertise of the wider community. As mentioned I have a 2002 ST4s that has Remus aluminium cans that are stamped not for road use. The previous owner has told me that a Ducati shop set the bike up for these cans. If anyone has something similar and a PCIII with a suitable map, I'd love to hear from you. I was going to go to Ferraci to get the PCIII as they might have a suitable map they could preload too. The onloy problem is import duty, which is a pain. It runs at about 20%. So, any wisdom, anecdotes, or just wild encouragement people might want to share, go right ahead.,I am running a PC3 with Open Airbox , K&N Filter , Sil Cans and Iridium plugs and I am having to run with a map supplied by another owner with a similar set-up however it does have some peculiar and inconsistent fueling issues which I need to overcome with a proper dyno-run. (E.G. Higher Fuel Co-sump at 80 mph than 100 mph) I would recommend that you investigate the nearest PC3 Dyno technician (I appreciate this may not be convenient , Its the same here in the NE of Scotland) and have it mapped correctly which it really should have anyway even if it came with a map from Ferracci as each engine is different in its requirements. This is something I will be having done this winter as I would not want to run long-term without knowing the fueling was correct for many reasons apart from fuel co-sump. When I get the work done I will post the results but it wont be for a few months yet. From a different angle , have you already changed your sprocket set-up ? Quickest to try is a 14 T Engine Sprocket which doesn't require a longeer chain , a better arrangement is to keep the OEM 15T and increase the rear from its OEM 38 to at least 41 (I have 43T but find it a little to short geared so will try the 41 next time out). This tends to address the lumpy low speed riding for most people.,,,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2000 Ducati ST4

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