Time for the 12k.
My questions are:
Should I pick up the full opener/closer shim kit from Desmo in prep, or open her up and do some measuring first, then try my luck at the dealer?
Closer shim measuring tool a necessity, or calipers good enough?
Can't really think of any others.
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Re: Valve Adjustment 999
It sure is nice to have a selection of shims at the ready when your doing the clearances. Sometimes you think you have it but on a re-measure its not right so you have to do a change of shim. At least you can put used shims back in a "bank" for some future purpose.
Closer shim tool is a must, EMS has them. Ducatimike from EMS also has the complete shim kits.
Access to the Testastretta is so much easier than the Desmoquattro. You will appreciate that.
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If you don't know how to open a lock cylinder in your hand, you probably should take it to a professional locksmith. They don't charge much to rekey a lock that you bring into the shop, and they can usually do it in under ten minutes. Twelve minutes if you don't bring a key that can open it.
That said, you can open it by shimming with a key blank and a shim, bumping with a bump key, removing the slide or top of the cylinder, picking with a pick, pick gun, or electric pick, key picking it, using tryout keys, rapping it open with a hammer handle, or simply wiggling every old key you can find in it until it either turns or you run out of old keys.
Well, the shim adjustment must be done, the question is are you too late? I presume that you are talking about valve shims, which is how the valves are adjusted. Valves work their way into the head, over time, and this closes the clearance, when you hold the valve slightly open, the valve and seat get damaged.This is the time to fix the low compression cylinder, as it will only deteriorate more from this point. Likely a valve issue...And it appears that is what your mechanic is indication. NO MORE adjustment means that the valve has worked its way into the head too far. Valve job time. Sorry.
Yes, you have 4 valves per side, 2 are intake, 2 exhaust. On the intake, the opener is .002-.007, and the closer .006-.010 , The exhaust, opener is, .002-.009 and the closer is ,.004- .008. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you need to do your math and get the right shims, Ducati will sell you the shims you need, but there are other people out there making them. When measuring the clearance, you need to turn the engine over by hand, pull the plugs, pull the cover off the left side to get to the crank bolt, get a friend to crank the engine over while you runs shims in and out of the rockers, keep notes on your measurements.
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Engine-Mechanical1.html is a link to the proceedure. I think I still have the service manual myself somewhere that shows how its done.
you have to scroll down a bit to find the valve adjustment info. I read thru it and it seems pretty acurate. I had the 1990 model B230FT engine in my first volvo. I hated giving that car to my mother in law. The guy who wrote the article is correct about the frequency of adjustment. I had 200K miles on mine and it still needed no valve adjustment and didnt burn oil. I loved maintaining that car... it was so easy to get to everything. I know that in the past you could get a shim kit from the dealer and when you bring it back you would only be charged for the shims you used.
good luck. hope this helps.
Valves are actuated only recently at Moto Guzzi by an overhead camshaft. Shim under bucket design precludes consumer adjustment due to shim kits price/availability. But it can be done! Not sure what the interval is, usually needs it between 12k miles, and 20k miles. If you hear noticeable tapping that doesn't quiet after warmup, it is time to check clearances. Good Luck, and nice bike, by the way. TT