It's become increasingly clear why the last person to work on this bike used gasket goo to seal the valve covers. The problem with the short stud was quickly remedied (thanks barryg) with two nuts and minimal effort. The stud came right out. I cleaned the stud and threads, applied a bit of thread-lock, and screwed it back in leaving enough to install the cover with a washer under the center nut. Life was good! After installing the tank, battery and adding gas it was time to see if my many months of amateurish mechanics would pay off. Sure enough, the bike started and I was able to take a short spin around the neighborhood. After parking the restoration project, I noticed quite a bit of oil leaking from around the valve covers (on both sides). I let everything cool off and attempted to tighten all fasteners. No significant improvement. So, do I forget about the stock gaskets and go with RTV or is there a trick to installing the valve covers that I have missed?
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Re: R65LS Restoration - Another Valve Cover Problem
The OEM gaskets have adhesive built on to them. This is always the side with printing on any BMW gasket. Clearly the head has to be clean when installing a new gasket for the adhesive to adhere.
I have a similar leak problem on one bike, and it appears the surfaces aren't smooth enough to seal with oe gaskets. My solution is aftermarket "silicone" gaskets, which do the trick, but are a bit tricky to use. No glue with these.
It appears a lot of times previous owners are taken by surprise that there are outboard studs on the valve covers and try prying the cover off after only removing the center nut. This hurts the sealing surfaces, of course.
When the bike was new, the OEM gasket was installed with the factory adhesive adhering it to the cylinder head only, and it didn't leak. Subsequent leaks were caused by incorrect procedures by various previous owners, untrained mechanics, etc.
A lot of times the threads in the cylinder head for the center stud get stripped. This occurred especially with the too-short studs, as they didn't get threaded into the head enough.
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I can only think there is a fault somewhere in the pcv system that has somehow been overlooked.
The vacuum part of the pvc system provides the motive power for the flow of clean fresh air through the crankcase and into the inlet manifold via two routes, taking with it the various crankcase emissions to be burned up during the combustion process.
At idle and low revs and other times when manifold depression is high, such as during overrun, crankcase emissions tend to be drawn through the pcv valve directly into the manifold and at other times, when engine speed and load increases the venting increasingly takes place through a second vent into the air cleaner or intake. At low speed, etc. the second vent becomes the supply of clean fresh air for the crankcase.
In the early days of the pcv system some engines had fresh air supplied via a filter fitted to the crankcase and others used a vented oil filler cap. A few engines had no air inlet at all and the manifold was simply connected directly through a length of half-inch hose to the valve cover. Those engines almost never leaked oil...
For a few years BMC used a complicated vacuum regulator valve mounted on the crankcase and again a large bore hose to the manifold.
Since those days most manufacturers have settled on one of two systems using either a pcv valve or a small air bleed into the manifold to provide the motive power for the ventilation of the crankcase. Mostly there is a flame or spark arrestor/oil mist trap in the breather that sometimes becomes blocked and causes trouble, though the trouble is usually the opposite of too much vacuum.
I suggest you go back to the drawing board and recheck everything. During a service I usually test the breather by putting the compressed air blow-gun down the dipstick tube and sealing it with a cloth. If the crankcase breather is clear and working properly no pressure will build up inside the engine.
Obviously some caution is needed to avoid blowing out seals and gaskets if the breather is found to be inadequate.
Dear Sir, Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
Kawasaki's are notorious for the waterpump seals going. There are little rubber doughnut seals (3 if i remember) that run along the impellor shaft. When these break down, you get the leak. I would be pretty certain on a bike of this age, that this is your problem. It isnt a massive job to do, but if your not technically minded it can get messy. The shaft is connected by a circlip on the opposite side to pump prop, and should, i emphisise the word SHOULD slide out, once the clip is released. But beware as ALOT of these become siezed and stuck fast, so some more dissasembly may be required. You can try taking off the cover and using a good instant gasket, providing that your running temp is fine, no water in the oil (if your lucky) but these cover seals are designed to pop if there is too much pressure behind them, hence me telling you about the impellor seals.
Yes, you need a Rocker cover (valve cover) Gasket kit. Remove the valve cover, remove all old O-rings and cover gasket, clean grooves and mating surfaces without gouging or scratching them, put the new gaskets on as per factory recommendations, tighten to the proper torque and you're done. The spark plug holes in the cover are part of the valve cover gasket kit. Any Napa, Car Quest, Pep Boys, Auto Zone will have it.
I replaced a valve cover gasket last night. The simple way of completing this taks is to un bolt the valve cover using the star tool. If I remember their is a total of ten bolts around the v-cover and in the center. Remove all bolts and clean them with carb or brake cleaner to disolve all the grease and dirt. Be careful to keep all washers that are below bolt head clean them to. You then would want to disconnect any lines or hoses connected (be mindful of where to re-connect them). Then very gently grab both sides of cover and pull toward front of engine until seal releases. Take cover out remove and replace all rubber grommets. Take a flat head screw driver and run along the seal making sure that the screw driver is under the seal run along crevice all the way around and in the center of valce cover ( where the circles are). You want the seal to be clear of all debris( and old seal). Use a clean towel to clean all areas where the seal once was with brake or carb spray. Clean the top of engine where seal rested and the circle area's make sure to use the silicone and cut the tip to desired beading ( you want the bead to be thick enough to fill the crevices where your old seal was maybe even more) After all area's have been filled wait 5 minutes for silicone to skin( a process where silicone is just begining to become tacky). Replace valve cover and make sure everything lines up install all bolts with washers into place and tighten reconnect all lines/ hoses and wait up to and hour and a half to drive. Although its safe to drive after this time it will take 24 hours to fully cure. Please forgive me for my grammer but I hope this information helps you.
Are you sure the Valve Cover and not just the Valve cover gasket??
Any ways go to Auto Zone and pick up the Valve cover gasket, RTV Silicone selant, Gasket Scraper, and a can of Brake parts cleaner spray.
Disconnect the battery cable from the negative battery terminal, Remove the items which are in your way: Pull the spark plug wires off the spark plugs and remove them from their brackets, remove the PCV hoses, and remove the throttle cable from its brackets and position it out of the way. Loosen the fasteners in this order, I believe there are 11 bolts holding the Valve cover down. Remove one bolt and count to the next 5th bolt and remove it and count to the next 5th bolt and remove it, do this till all the bolts have been removed on a circular pattern. Carefully remove the valve cover from the engine head. If your just going to replace the Valve cover gasket, Remove the gasket from the valve cover. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the valve cover and the engine head. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket, and then use the Brake parts cleaner to clean any remaining oil from the surfaces. If you bought a new Valve cover, Apply RTV silicone sealant to the gasket and engine head around the cutout areas of the valve cover. Note you still have to clean the heads on the engine. Lay the new gasket in the groove in the valve cover. Reinstall the valve cover with its new gasket on the engine head. Tighten the bolts in the same order you removed it in. Do Not Over Tighten the Bolts that hold the Valve Cover down, you'll crush the new gasket and will get an oil leak. Note: If the valve cover does not come off the engine head easily, use a block of wood and a hammer to bump it in an attempt to jar it loose. If absolutely necessary, you may slip a flexible putty knife between the head and the cover to break the seal. If you purchased a valve cover gasket kit, don't forget to replace the small rectangular gasket and the spark plug seals as well while you have the valve cover off the car. You may buy some Brake cleaner to clean off all the oil which has leaked all over the engine. DO NOT attempt to pry the cover off the head using a screwdriver or chisel. Be very careful not to introduce foreign matter into the engine. If you get anything (dirt, metal shavings, bits of old gasket) into the engine. DO NOT over-tighten the valve cover fasteners. On the engine, the fasteners need only 17 to 34 in-lbs of torque. Your A/C system has a leak in it. all system has a slow leak and common, You can get a re-charge kit at Auto Zone to save some money, but if your A/C needs charging again in 2 weeks or less then there is a larger leak due to a bad seal and is cheaper to have a A/C shop locate the leak and replace the seal that has gone bad. Good luck and hope this help. keep me posted, be glad to help.
it's verry likely your valve cover gasket is leaking. that is one of the first seals to go but it is an easy fix at least. use some gasket sealer or a neopreene gasket the corque gaskets are obsolete and they don't last very long.