Question about 1991 BMW R 100 RS

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Oil issue Usually my bike requires 3300ml for an oil change and around 3800ml when I do a filter and oil change. Since switching to this synthetic oil I have so far placed 5L of oil in and I keep getting an check oil light. I originally only put in the 3300ml and the level at first looked fine but after a 5 minute ride it was becoming slugish so I checked the level and added some oil. It was fine for 10 miles but then again was running low. I let it sit overnight to make sure the oil was cold and the level reading would be right. Once again it was low so I added more oil until it was just above the low marking, at this point it was up to 4600ml. This afternoon it did the same thing and showed low on oil. I finished off last of the 5th quart and now the level looks in the middle but it still is giving me a check oil light after about 3 minutes of riding. Another interesting thing I noticed is that the synthetic oil seems to be making a gel coating, white colored. I am starting to get really frustrated and cannot decide how to proceed. Please any advice would be very much appreciated.

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It really sounds like you have water in the oil or some other contaminant (bike wasn't run on Castor oil?) You probably want to drain oil into a clean container and flush system before you do serious damage. Bike is geting hot enough to boil off water?

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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How often should oil be changed ?


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Since the actual mileage you can go between oil changes is very dependent of the type of driving you do, the brand of oil you use, and the condition of your engine; there really is no hard and fast rule. That's why commercial vehicle fleets regularly take samples of their oil, and send it to laboratories for analysis to determine whether it needs changing. Sometimes it is necessary to change oil more often than expected; other times you can go longer between changes. My experience has been that, when oil is nearing the mileage where it needs changing; the rate of consumption will significantly increase. So when my car needs a quart added, it usually means it ought to be changed.

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I would also add that it is much safer to stay with only one brand and type of oil for the life of your vehicle; this is true for both conventional and synthetic oils. I have seen too many engines ruined by switching to a different brand or type of oil. Mobil 1 is chemically different from all the other synthetic oils, and is closer to petroleum oil in its characteristics. I prefer it for that reason. They also make a european formula 0W-40 full synthetic, which is available in the U.S, and is my preferred viscosity for all around use. It is not one of their extended service oils; but the protection is far superior to other oil grades. Not all stores carry it; but it can often be ordered from stores which carry other Mobil 1 products; and can always be bought from the local Mobil oil distributor.

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First, check and , if needed, change the spark plug(s), and oil. Always use the stock spark plug for your particular bike. Use 10w40 motor oil in the gear box. Don't use any synthetic oils, oil marked "EC", or oil with "special" additives. Change the oil filter if your bike has one. Changing the oil acts as the "filter" in bikes that don’t have an actual filter. Lubricate the chain. Lubricate the control cables with liquid graphite, ( Lock Eze ). Make sure the tires have adequate pressure. Check the spokes and snug up any that are lose. Aim the headlight and check all functions of the bike, kill switches, brakes, etc.

How about a top rating on this solution? Thanks!

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1 Answer

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