Changing the kick start shaft, for a 1982 honda XL500.
Hi, just wondering how i split the motor of my XL500, i have it off the bike, with the clutch removed and both side coverings removed. where do i go from here?? i did buy a manual, just awaiting delivery. (but i'm too keen to get it done!)
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The engine oil tank is on the bottom of the transmission. On one corner of the transmission there is a large 2" diameter cap with knurling on the edges. Pull this out and you'll see the oil dipstick. Check the oil with the bike on the side stand. Lower mark is FULL COLD, upper mark is FULL HOT. do not overfill. Capacity with filter change 3 quarts.
The transmission oil is separate from the engine oil. On the right side of the bike just behind the exhaust system is the chrome clutch release mechanism. It has a plug in it that takes a 7/16" Allen or Hex key wrench to remove it. With the bike standing straight up, the oil level should be between the two marks on the dipstick. Capacity 20-24 ounces
The primary also has oil in it. With the bike standing straight up, remove the round "derby" cover. Inside is the clutch assembly. You'll see a bright ring around the clutch assembly with the dark clutch spring inside. Fill the oil just until it touches the lowest point of the dark clutch spring. Do not overfill. Capacity, 36-42 ounces.
Is your clutch slipping?? Is there an oil leak between the engine/trans?
Replacing the clutch on a R1200GS is a bit involved unless you are very mechanically skilled. You basically split the bike in half to remove the transmission and gain access to the clutch. You need a means of supporting the front half of the bike under the engine while you remove the back half of the bike. Disconnect electrical harness from the rear, disconnect brake lines to the rear of the bike. remove throttle bodies etc. takes 2-3 hours for a skilled mechanic to get the clutch out, then 4-6 hours to put all back together again CORRECTLY!
If the clutch is NOT slipping, I would suggest removal of the starter motor on the lower LHS of the engine/ trans. and measurement of the clutch disc before you start the work of disassembly
To check the engine oil, the oil cap in on the right hand side of the bike, near the top front of the transmission. It's a knurled cap about an inch and a half in diameter. Pull it up and it'll have a long plastic dipstick on it. The stick is marked. The upper mark should be labeled "FULL HOT" with the lower mark being labeled 'FULL COLD". Check this oil level with the bike on the side stand.
The transmission dipstick is on the right side of the bike in the clutch release cover of the transmission. Follow the clutch cable back to find the chromed cover. It usually takes a 3/8" hex key or Allen wrench to remove. It too has two marks on it. Check this fluid with the bike standing straight up.
To check the primary, you must remvove the derby cover. The oil level should be no higher than the lower part of the clutch spring. You should be able to see the oil in the primary.
As for the value of the bike, it's worth whatever you're willing to pay for it. But, to get a better idea, call either your local Harley dealer or a bank that finances motorcycles and ask for the "Average Retail Value" of the bike. Also for the "Loan Value" of the bike. The "Loan Value" is how much the bank will finance on the bike. Don't pay over the ARV and try to get it for as close to the LV as possible unless the bike is exceptional in some way.
The primary on all late model bikes (1985 and later) are known as "wet primaries" because they have their own lube in them. The newer bikes like yours came with H-D's Syn3 20W50 oil in the primary.
To change the oil, stand the bike up as straight as safely possible. Remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly. Notice the outer clutch drum is made of aluminum. Inside that is a black disc. This is the clutch diaphragm spring.
To drain the primary, remove the drain plug at the rear of the primary on the bottom. Replace the drain plug and refill the primary with oil until it's just to the bottom of this diaphragm spring. Usually 38-44 ounces. Do not overfill as too much oil will make your clutch drag.
i have change mine with open motor while reparing my transmission and i`m not sure that`s a good idea to change it in place, but if it`s work you will save time. I took about 8 hours to close transmission and motor and take it back in place.
I don't know that adjusting the clutch is going to solve your problem, but the adjustment is found on the lever on the handlebars. There is a thumb screw that the cable sits in. If you ask me, it sounds like you either fried the clutch plates to the point that they just don't grab anymore, or something broke internally and has either disconnected the drivetrain path inside the motor or jammed the clutch so that it stays disengaged all the time. Did you try shifting into all the gears? If you can shift into another gear and it moves, you like had a tranny gear blow apart. Another possiblity is the shifting mechanism itself. Do you really know for sure that the tranny is actually shifting into a gear? You could start by removing the clutch cover on the right side of the motor, which is seperate from the right side motor cover. This will give you easy access to the clutch to check your plate wear/breakage. If the bike is tipped on the left side, you won't even have to drain the tranny oil. Don't forget to turn your gas off before performing that step.
Its worth openning again the side cover and re-inspect that nut, not bad too if you can remove the clutch basket taking care of the plates as how they are fitted so that you don't get confused on assembling.
Check for the wear on the basket where the clutch plates go in and are thn driven especially those notches, check too the gear that mashes with the clutch system for any wear and not bad to check the springs too in the clutch basket.
and yesterday was the first time i ever went on a bike. After a couple of hours of riding it around my neighborhood my clutch cable snapped. Im guessing the cable itself is not very expensive but i was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on how to replace it. ALso i can't figure out how to take off the seat. haha thanksSugestion 1: Get a service manual and owners manual, they would answer your questions.
Now, to get the seat off, check in the trunk. The little door on the rear of the bike, I believer the xjs have wingnuts in there that hold the seat down.
In terms of the clutch cable, you may need to remove the clutch lever to get the cable off that side, on the other side you probably need to remove the clutch cover on the engine (near where the chain goes into the engine) and remove the cable from there.,,,