Last owner say possibly the cassect is stuck inside the top will not open when we press the button.need to find how direction to get the radio out.possible fax something from book.my new haynes book do not have how to remove he radio.just bought the bike
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1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
What do the codes mean?
DTC FAULT CONDITION MODULE
"BUS Er" (TSM/HFSM) Serial Data Open/High
B0563 Battery Voltage High (TSM/TSSM)
B1004 Fuel Level Sending Unit Low (Instruments)
B1005 Fuel Level Sending Unit High/Open (Instruments)
B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage (Instruments)
B1007 Ignition Line Overvoltage (Instruments)
B1008 Reset Switch Closed (Instruments)
B1121 Turn Signal Will Not Flash (HFSM)
B1122 Right Turn Signal Open (TSM)
B1123 Left Turn Signal Short-to-Ground (HFSM)
B1124 Right Turn Signal Short-to-Ground (HFSM)
B1125 Left Turn Signal Short-to-Voltage (HFSM)
B1126 Right Turn Signal Short-to-Voltage (HFSM)
B1134 Starter Output High ((TSM/TSSM)
B1135 Accelerometer Fault ((TSM/TSSM)
B1136 Accelerometer Tip-Over Self Test (HFSM)
B1141 Ignition Switch Open/Low (HFSM) ONLY
B1141 Turn signals Will Not Flash (TSM) ONLY
B1142 Internal Fault (HFSM)
B1143 Security Antenna Short-to-Ground (HFSM)
B1144 Security Antenna Short-to-Battery (HFSM)
B1145 Security Antenna Open (HFSM)
B1151 Sidecar BAS Low ((TSM/TSSM)
B1152 Sidecar BAS High ((TSM/TSSM)
B1153 Sidecar BAS Out of Range ((TSM/TSSM)
B1154 Clutch Switch Short-to-Ground (TSM/HFSM)
B1155 Neutral Switch Short-to-Ground (TSMHFSM)
B2006 Radio Switches Shorted/Stuck (Audio)
B2007 Handlebar (Audio) Switch Shorted High(Audio)
Handlebar Mode Switch Shorted High(Audio)
Handlebar PTT/Squelch Switch Shorted High(Audio)
B2008 Handlebar (Audio) Switch Shorted Low(Audio)
Handlebar Mode Switch Shorted Low(Audio)
Handlebar PTT/Squelch Switch Shorted Low(Audio)
B2009 Handlebar (Audio) Switch Stuck or Open(Audio)
Handlebar Mode Switch Stuck or Open(Audio)
Handlebar PTT/Squelch Switch Stuck or Open(Audio)
B2010 Passenger (Audio)/PTT Switch Shorted High(Audio)
Passenger Mode Switch Shorted High(Audio)
B2011 Passenger (Audio)/PTT Switch Shorted Low(Audio)
Passenger Mode Switch Shorted Low(Audio)
B2012 Passenger (Audio)/PTT Switch Shorted Stuck or Open(Audio)
Passenger Mode Switch Shorted Stuck or Open(Audio)
B2013 Sidecar Switches Shorted High(Audio)
B2014 Sidecar Switches Shorted Low(Audio)
B2015 Sidecar Switches Shorted Stuck or Open(Audio)
B2016 Front Speakers Shorted(Audio)
B2017 Front Speakers Open(Audio)
B2018 Front Speakers Shorted to Ground(Audio)
B2019 Front Speakers Shorted to Battery(Audio)
B2020 Rear Speakers Shorted(Audio)
B2021 Rear Speakers Open(Audio)
B2022 Rear Speakers Shorted to Ground(Audio)
B2023 Rear Speakers Shorted to Battery(Audio)
B2024 Sidecar Speakers Shorted(Audio)
B2025 Sidecar Speakers Open(Audio)
B2026 Sidecar Speakers Shorted to Ground(Audio)
B2027 Sidecar Speakers Shorted to Battery(Audio)
P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low (EFI)
P0108 Map Sensor High (EFI)
P0112 IAT Sensor Voltage Low (EFI)
P0113 IAT Sensor Voltage Open/High (EFI)
P0117 ET Sensor Voltage Low (EFI)
P0118 ET Sensor Voltage Open/High (EFI)
P0122 TP Sensor Open/Low (EFI)
P0123 TP Sensor High (EFI)
P0131 Front O2 Sensor Low (EFI)
P0132 Front O2 Sensor High (EFI)
P0134 Front O2 Sensor Open/Not Responding (EFI)
P0151 Rear O2 Sensor Low (EFI)
P0152 Rear O2 Sensor High (EFI)
P0154 Rear O2 Sensor Open/Not Responding (EFI)
P0261 Front Injector Open/Low (EFI)
P0262 Front Injector High (EFI)
P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low (EFI)
P0264 Rear Injector High (EFI)
P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent (EFI)
P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error (EFI)
P0501 VSS Low (EFI)
P0502 VSS High/Open (EFI)
P0505 Loss of Idle Sped Control (EFI)
P0562 Battery Voltage Low (EFI)
P0563 Battery Voltage High (EFI)
P0603 ECM EEPROM Error (EFI)
P0605 ECM Flash Error (EFI)
P0661 Active Intake Solenoid Open (EFI)
P0662 Active Intake High/Shorted (EFI)
P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low (EFI)
P1002 System relay Coil High/Shorted (EFI)
P1003 System relay Contacts Open (EFI)
P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed (EFI)
P1009 Incorrect Password (EFI)
P1010 Missing Password (EFI)
P1351 Front Ignition Open/Low (EFI)
P1352 Front Ignition Coil High/Shorted (EFI)
P1353 Front Cylinder No Combustion (EFI)
P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Open/Low (EFI)
P1355 Rear Ignition Coil High/Shorted (EFI)
P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion (EFI)
P1357 Intermittent Secondary Front (EFI)
P1358 Intermittent Secondary Rear (EFI)
P1475 Exhaust Actuator Position Error (EFI)
P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low (EFI)
P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted (EFI)
U1016 Loss of ICM/ECM Serial Data (Instruments)
U1016 Loss of Serial Data(Audio)
U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data (TSM/HFSM))
U1064 Loss of (TSM/TSSM) Serial Data (EFI)
U1064 Loss of (TSM/TSSM/HFSM) Serial Data (Instruments)
U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial data (EFI)
U1255 Missing Message at Speedometer (EFI)
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message (EFI)
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message (Instruments)
U1255 Serial Data Error/Missing Message (TSM/TSSM/HSFM)
U1300 Serial Data Low (EFI)
U1300 Serial Data Low (Instruments)
U1300, U1301 Stalls, then Starts(Audio)
U1300 Serial Data Low (TSM/HFSM)
U1301 Serial Data Open/High (EFI)
U1301 Serial Data Open/High (Instruments)
U1301 Serial Data Open/High (TSM/TSSM)
U1302 Infotainment BUS Shorted Low/High(Audio)
U1306 Infotainment BUS Lost Communications with Hands free Phone Module(Audio)
U1307 Infotainment BUS Lost Communications with CB Module(Audio)
U1313 Infotainment BUS Lost Communications with XM Module(Audio)
U1314 Infotainment BUS Lost Communications with Navigation Module(Audio)
U1317 Infotainment BUS Lost Communications with High Output Amplifier(Audio)
There is a known fault with these radio's, one othe buttons is faulty and stuck on all th etime rendering the unit stuck on the last radio station or on the tapedeck. You can replace the buttons yourself or send the unit away to have it done. Parts are available from http://secure.billydump.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=12 and instructions for replacing them are on a link on the same page. Have you joined the worldwide Yahoo email group with over 1400 members via www.suzukicavalcade.com
The carb is flooding because of a stuck needle valve in the float chamber. When the bike is running at higher revs, it is probably drawing enough fuel into the engine to run OK, but at low revs, the overflowing petrol will be getting into the engine in far too higher volume and flooding the cylinder, drowning the spark plug.
You will need to remove the float chamber from the carb, take out the pivot pin that the float hinges on in order to release the needle valve and clean it out. 99% of the time simply dropping the needle valve out, giving it a wipe with a lint free cloth and flushing a little clean petol through the inlet pipe to dislodge any obstruction will fix the problem. While the float chamber is off, check that there is no dirt in the bottom and that the entire chamber is clean and free of any muck.
There will probably be a drain valve on the side of the carb (Usually a brass screw set into the base of the carb float chamber at a slight angle). Before you go to the trouble of removing the carb from the bike, try this:
Turn off the fuel supply. Put a cup under the carb to catch fuel. Remove the drain plug and allow the fuel in the float chamber to run out. Now the float is sitting at its lowest possible position inside the float chamber, turn the fuel supply back on and as petrol runs out of the drain hole, tap the carb sharply and repeadedly with the end of a screwdriver as you let about a pint of petrol flush through. Turn off the fuel supply and replace the drain plug.
The flushing and tapping MAY dislodge the obstruction that is holding the needle valve open and fix the problem without having to remove the carb
There is a voltage for sure generated by the mute switch or the controller to cut off amplification in the audio amplifier. Since you have noticed the mute on the display, This must be disabled to get the volume back. so the circuit must be traced to confirm on the MUTE output and the voltage cut off to remove off the semiconductor switch.
take off the front headlamp, unplug head lamp, remove windshield, remove screws along outer edges of inner fairing, there are 2 screws at the bottom inside the triple tree. This should remove it for you, i have done it several times adding speakers, garage opener, replacing bulbs, etc.
Are you putting on a chrome button or just reinstalling the original? Either way, I seem to remember that it is just pressed on, no special tool or method. If you want, you could always open the housing and see if you can hold the inside piece with needle-nose to keep from damaging anything.
Sometimes ,if a bike has been store up over winter ,,the carbs can get or become very sticky ,this is generally cause by damp or the fuel gets sediment forming in the jets .if your bike is getting stuck on the throttle .,the best thing to do is to strip down and check that the carbs linking arm is not stiff or rusty ,and while you are doing this remove the throttle cables and give then a good soaking in W/D 40 or equivelent and re oil the inner cables ,Cables can be olied using a baloon filled with thin oil and attached to one end using sticky tape and hung up and allow the oil to soak through the inner cable .You can also give the inner cable a push & pull movement to help the oil get right through the cable ,till it comes out the other end .