Question about Ducati 996 Motorcycles

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Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?

I have heard that there is a long clutch pull with the 696, as in the clutch does not engage untill the lever is almost out.

Can this be fixed with an adjustable lever like a pizzo or other? what levers would you suggest? any other things to help this?

Another unrelated question, who has exhusts out for the bike now? any in the works?

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I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox.
Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride.
I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator.
Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound.
One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?

I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.

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Clutch plates may be worn. You would have to pull the side cover to inspect them. Honda clutch's always rattle at an idle when in neutral. If you just pull in the clutch lever the rattle will go away. Let the lever out and it will rattle again. As for the slippage, if your clutch cable is binding at all it will keep the clutch from fully engaging when you release the handle. This will cause the clutch to slip for a second or two until the cable fully releases from the bind. Any resistance in the cable and you should replace it.

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go to this http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rt1-19701971_model8356/partslist/A-09.html and then click on "view big image", this will give you a diagram of the clutch etc,, the adjustment (No. 26) may need looking at, or (No.11,12,) have broken.Basically you turn 26 in (clockwise) untill you feel light resistance then back off 1/2 turn (been years since i worked on one of these!) this should give you freeplay, have you just got the bike?, and do you think it has been stripped lately(ie the clutch). PS I am not affiliated with the web site i offered above, just a handy reference for you maybe? cheers

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The clutch lever does not release freely when clutch is ready to engage i have to push the lever out with my fingers


Hi and welcome to FixYa,

For some reason, I could not view your responses in the Chat window.  Still, to your concern, a couple of initial chechs:
  • remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap and determine the fluid level;
  • refill if necessary;
  • when checking fluid l;evel and refilling, ensure that the clutch fluid resevoir is parallel to the ground, i.e. turn the handlebars slightly to the right to level;
  • in some instances it may be necessary to bleed the system.

A thing  to note is that the '08 696 to my understanding uses an APTC 'slipper' clutch hence it would feel really very very light on the clutch lever.

If the refilling, bleeding is not corrective and you feel that th clutch is not engaging, then it may be necessary to add or reduce the shims.

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

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Pulling the lever releases the clutch. Disengageing it so you don't go. Ok, in order to engage the clutch fully, you release the lever and you must have at leas 1/4 inch free play.
If it is not going in gear easily, you probably have too much free play and you are not fully disengageing.. There is the possibility of an internal adjust ment Try the above and let me know how or if that works. Clutch lever pulled by closing your fist releases the clutch for shifting.

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1 Answer

Long clutch pull/engagment on 696?


I recently installed CRG levers on our 696. No boot to fiddle with on this model. You can see the Allen key on the back of the lever perch from the outside or bar end. Simply adjust the Allen screw in/out with an Allen socket and ratchet to a range of positions then check clutch engagement and drag via a few test starts. Too far one direction and the clutch hangs up while too far the other way can give you an off/off switch lacking in full engagement that is hard on the gearbox. Conservatively set after 15 minutes of adjusting and testing resulted in an incredible reduction in the distance that my wife had to reach her tiny hands. She was extremely pleased as this completely addressed her only real complaint and made it much easier to ride. I did take the more expensive route with the Termi cans, getting a bit of a break from my local dealer at about $1250. The upside I found was that there really is no need for the dealer to install the cans because re-mapping wasn't necessary as it was with my 1098. If you are capable of unbolting your gas tank (a gazillion Allen screws on the tank covers and three bolts on the tank) and have a spare set of hands available to hold it so you don't have to undo fuel lines it is fairly simple. It's a good idea to take the tank covers off so you can see where everything is hiding. While you are under there with the battery disconnected I recommend installing a battery charger pigtail so you can easily plug in a trickle charger for the off-season. I spent maybe two hours - less time than on the fender eliminator. Again as I found putting Termi cans on my1098 the 696 loses the irritating leanness, starts much easier (fast idle no longer necessary) and runs much cooler. Plus it's all covered under warranty. With the removable sound deadener inserts you have a much nicer sound in your choice of "mellow" and "heavy metal". In my mind it now sounds like a Duc is supposed to sound. One trick on the install: the new CPU caused my dash to switch to EU (km instead of miles). There is an excellent detailed thread on this site that shows how to change back to US settings. Takes about two minutes.

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dunno if that's backwards. Anyway: adjusted to just minimum sane play it barely engages with the lever fully in. If I would have to adjust the lever to any shorter position (for smaller hands) it would probably not engage fully. I understand there is an adjustment at the clutch arm down behind the gearbox. If I adjust there what will happen? I'm guessing I can wind that one in a bit then loosen the wire a bit. Will this solve the problem or will I be back at where I am now?,The arm only has limited travel, and there is a screw adjustment between the arm and the end of the clutch push-rod. Not sure what it is on the 1100s; it could be a hex headed bolt or an allen grub, but it's a bugger to get at because the swinging arm is so close. There's going to be some sort of locknut which will have to be slackened first. Make small adjustments, screwing in towards the 'box, and trying the clutch lever each time. ,,,

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