Just had my gauge back light go out at about 12,000 miles. Bike is out of warranty. Found out it is a sealed unit with no user serviceable parts. Has anyone ever opened one up. Is the bulb(s) solderable on the inside. Got to be cheaper than replacing it at just under $1000 according to the local dealer. Anyone else have this problem. Seems to me that the backlight should last for more than 2 1/2 years and 12000 miles
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Hi Anonymous, start by checking oil level in tank and make sure it is between the add and full mark. With engine at normal operating temperature 180-230 degrees and the use of a 10 micron synthetic media oil filter, oil pressure will be 30-38 psi at 2,000 RPM and 3-5 psi. at idle. The oil pressure light is designed to come on at 2 psi. or less. To accurately test oil pressure remove oil pressure sending unit and install known good oil pressure gauge that reads 0-50, there might possibly be some plumbing required for hard to access points. If you are out in the middle of nowhere and there is no cell phone service and your oil pressure gauge isn't working and your oil pressure light is burned out, despair not, you still have one last line of defense left HYDRAULIC LIFTERS, as long as those tireless workers are quiet, you have oil pressure, maybe not much, but enough to get you down the road at a slow to moderate speed using the least amount of RPMS as necessary. As far as the volt meter is concerned it would appear that there is a faulty ground somewhere in the charging circuit. For a free wiring diagram please visit the website below and good luck. Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics
For most bikes, you can purchase a new speedometer that shows MPH. Is this bike from Canada?
One place that I have found to be a good resource and reasonable prices is bikebandit.com . I like them because they have exploded views of the parts so you end up buying what you need and not extras that you can re-use.
As far as how you replace the speedo, you need to be carefully disconnect the wire on the back of the gauge and see what screws are holding in the KPH unit. This varies a lot from bike to bike, but carefully study the gauge and never force it and pry it more than necessary, as this may disrupt the calibration of the unit.
Hope this helps!
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Sounds like a loose connection to me. On my FXDWG, the gauge has a rubber ring around it that holds it into the fuel tank. Carefully rock the gauge side to side while gently pulling up on it. Do not twist the gauge and be careful not to pull upwards too hard. The wires under the gauge are relatively short. The gauge will be in your hand and the sending unit is in the tank, Check all wires for a good connection.
I don't know of a test for the gauge. We used to test gauges in automobiles by taking the sending unit wire loose and then grounding it. When the wire is loose, the gauge will read full scale in one direction, when the wire is grounded, the gauge will read full scale in the other direction. Testing the sending unit is more difficult as it's basically a rheostat or variable resistor. You would have to remove the unit from the tank. The sending unit has a float on the end of a long crooked rod. It can be a real treat trying to get the sending unit out of the tank without bending the rod. If you bend the rod, the gauge will not read correctly even if everything else is right.
I'd check the wiring connections first. For what it's worth, these gauges are not known for their reliablity and quite often fail. Since your bike is fuel injected, you really need though. Mine doesn't work anymore and I use my trip meter to tell when I need fuel. Between 150 & 200 miles, I look for a gas station.
i think that the problem you face is due to your fuel gauge more than the battery .
the fuel gauge at full tank can be running out of sensor due to faulty gauge mechanism . i would not worry too much as this is common even in cars .
My advise to you is not to over fill your tank and this will resolve your problem .