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Re: Rusty clutch springs
Stainless will prevent the rust, as we already know. Never personally heard of the stainlees springs failing though but I could imagine it. It would be highly unlikely that more than one would go at a time and even if one does break it can still be ridden quite easily. Way long enough to get a replacement. IMO you should get a 'full' pressure plate to cover the plates as they can develop surface rust which some people don't like the look of.
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I have done the same exact thing myself. It's not going to be easy. I had to compress the spring by hand. there should be a little cover screwed down covering the spring, carefully remove it. this spring is pretty strong, so if you let it out of the channel its in, it probably going to eject across the room. I don't think theres a specific method, just use ingenuity and force the spring to open up the ring that grabs the oustide of the clutch, and move the mechanism inside to lock it there, then re-cover the spring, line up the 3 notches, and it'll go right back on. Don't be surprised if it takes a little while.
The primary on all late model bikes (1985 and later) are known as "wet primaries" because they have their own lube in them. The newer bikes like yours came with H-D's Syn3 20W50 oil in the primary.
To change the oil, stand the bike up as straight as safely possible. Remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly. Notice the outer clutch drum is made of aluminum. Inside that is a black disc. This is the clutch diaphragm spring.
To drain the primary, remove the drain plug at the rear of the primary on the bottom. Replace the drain plug and refill the primary with oil until it's just to the bottom of this diaphragm spring. Usually 38-44 ounces. Do not overfill as too much oil will make your clutch drag.
Try this to determine whether the gear box is the problem or the clutch. With the engine off, roll the bike backwards and forwards while shifting the gears. Go from first all the way to fifth and back. If you can do this, the problem is with the clutch. If you cannot get it to shift correctly all the way up and then back down, the problem is with the transmission.
If it's the clutch, it's probably dragging. Adjust the clutch. Find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable covered by a "bellows" made of rubber. Loosen the lock nut and shorten the cable all the way. Remove the derby cover. The adjuster screw is right in the middle of the clutch assembly. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw inwards until it touches. Now, back the screw back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn and lock the locknut. Replace the derby cover. Adjust the cable out until you've got 1/8" freeplay at the lever.
While you've got the derby cover off, stand the bike straight up. Notice the oil level in the primary. It should be no higher than the diaphragm spring in the clutch assembly. The outer clutch drum is made of aluminum. The spring is the black looking disc inside the clutch outer drum. If the oil level is too high, the clutch will "drag" making shifting difficult and finding neutral with the engine running next to impossible.
If it't the transmission, it's probably a broken shifter pawl. This requires a complete teardown of the transmission to repair.
Buy clutch cover gasket
Unhook clutch cable at clutch cover
Remove clutch cover
Remove 5 clutch spring bolts
Remove pressure plate
Remove plates and disc noticing order
Replace with new plates/disc in same order (after soaking in oil for at least a few hours, over night would be better.
Put everthing back together in order of removal.