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Re: Rusty clutch springs
Stainless will prevent the rust, as we already know. Never personally heard of the stainlees springs failing though but I could imagine it. It would be highly unlikely that more than one would go at a time and even if one does break it can still be ridden quite easily. Way long enough to get a replacement. IMO you should get a 'full' pressure plate to cover the plates as they can develop surface rust which some people don't like the look of.
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I had a Tri Z, and every time it sat the clutch stuck. I'm not exactly sure why your clutch won't disengage when you tighten the springs-I do know that the springs MUST be tightened to where the bolts bottom out for it to work. I do also suspect that running it with the springs loose has burned what was left of the clutch. The basket and inner hub grooved could be an issue. It would depend on how bad it's notched. They will normally operate fine with some notching. Filing down the basket is not recommended-you would have to take the exact same amount of material off each finger of the basket for it to work properly. I've done this only to get it running while waiting for a new basket and drive hub to arrive.
The main thing now is to get the clutch to disengage w/ the lever. Take the pressure plate off, and watch for the lifter to mave about 1/8" when you pull the lever. If it's not moving, or is too high, remove the lifter, the round ball behind it and the engaging rod out of the hollow clutch shaft. A small magnet tool works well.It may have gotten past the cam on the cable end of the system. With the rod out, turn the cable actuating lever back to the end of it's slack and reinstall the rod,ball and lifter. You should be able to turn the cable actuating rod with your fingers and watch the lifter come up. You can feel when the rod is in the right position on the cable arm-it should bottom out and lift within the working rotation of the lever. So if you get that working, put what's left of the clutch back together, tighten the springs and make sure it works.You will at the very least need to replace the friction plates in the clutch. The steels should be checked for warpage on a flat surface. If you can get .002 feeler gauge under the warp it's too far gone and they should be replaced as well. Most Yamaha clutches have a first and last friction plate that's a different part number when you order them, be sure to check that when replacing the plates.I'd get new springs as well, they're cheap. Good luck!
The primary holds between 34 and 40 ounces of oil. Stand the bike straight up. Make sure it's safe and won't fall over. Remove the derby cover. After draining the oil, refill until the oil just comes up to the lowest point of the clutch spring. If you look at the clutch assembly, you'll see a bright aluminum "ring". This is the outside edge of the outer clutch drum. Just inside that, you'll see a black round piece of metal. This is the clutch spring. Fill just until the oil comes to the bottom edge of this spring. Do not overfill or the clutch will drag and you will not be able to get the transmission into neutral with the engine running.
I just fixed this problem on my 2002 yz85 last night. I noticed there were 2 springs along shift shaft. I purchased both, not knowing which was the culprit, but they were only about 2 bucks each, and installed those in place of the old ones. If you do this, also by the clutch cover gaskets at the same time so they can be replaced after fixing the shaft springs. also make sure the parts that work in conjuction with the drum cam are properly aligned. a service manual and clutch holding tool will be very benificial too.
Pour the oil into the primary through the "derby cover" hole. Remove the derby cover and pour oil in until the level comes up to the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike standing straight up. When you look at the clutch, you can see the outer "aluminum colored" drum. Just inside this, you'll see a black colored disc, this is the clutch spring. Do not fill any higher than the bottom of this disc with the bike standing straight up. It will cause the clutch to "drag" making finding neutral with the engine running impossible. Usually it takes 36 - 44 ounces of oil.
The primary on all late model bikes (1985 and later) are known as "wet primaries" because they have their own lube in them. The newer bikes like yours came with H-D's Syn3 20W50 oil in the primary.
To change the oil, stand the bike up as straight as safely possible. Remove the derby cover. You'll see the clutch assembly. Notice the outer clutch drum is made of aluminum. Inside that is a black disc. This is the clutch diaphragm spring.
To drain the primary, remove the drain plug at the rear of the primary on the bottom. Replace the drain plug and refill the primary with oil until it's just to the bottom of this diaphragm spring. Usually 38-44 ounces. Do not overfill as too much oil will make your clutch drag.
Try this to determine whether the gear box is the problem or the clutch. With the engine off, roll the bike backwards and forwards while shifting the gears. Go from first all the way to fifth and back. If you can do this, the problem is with the clutch. If you cannot get it to shift correctly all the way up and then back down, the problem is with the transmission.
If it's the clutch, it's probably dragging. Adjust the clutch. Find the cable adjuster in the middle of the cable covered by a "bellows" made of rubber. Loosen the lock nut and shorten the cable all the way. Remove the derby cover. The adjuster screw is right in the middle of the clutch assembly. Loosen the locknut and turn the screw inwards until it touches. Now, back the screw back out 1/2 to 1 complete turn and lock the locknut. Replace the derby cover. Adjust the cable out until you've got 1/8" freeplay at the lever.
While you've got the derby cover off, stand the bike straight up. Notice the oil level in the primary. It should be no higher than the diaphragm spring in the clutch assembly. The outer clutch drum is made of aluminum. The spring is the black looking disc inside the clutch outer drum. If the oil level is too high, the clutch will "drag" making shifting difficult and finding neutral with the engine running next to impossible.
If it't the transmission, it's probably a broken shifter pawl. This requires a complete teardown of the transmission to repair.
Buy clutch cover gasket
Unhook clutch cable at clutch cover
Remove clutch cover
Remove 5 clutch spring bolts
Remove pressure plate
Remove plates and disc noticing order
Replace with new plates/disc in same order (after soaking in oil for at least a few hours, over night would be better.
Put everthing back together in order of removal.