Question about 2005 kawasaki KX 250 F

1 Answer

Bleeding front brakes

I just got some work done on my bike and had the forks changed....so the front calipers were removed and reintalled. After that, I changed the entire right clip-on with master cylinder. I'm tring to bleed the front brakes but not getting anywhere with it. I bought a $7 bleeder from autozone and started by bleeding the calipers first one side at a time. I slightly loosened the nut, insert the bleeder tip, pressed in the lever, loosen the nut more and fluid starts to go through the bleeder, then tighten the nut and pump the brake lever once...repeated this until fluid is clearly through the bleeder line with no bubbles. I did this for both caliper and then the nipple next to the master cylinder. If the bike is standing still, I can pump the lever and start to feel tension after a couple of pumps, but once I start moving, it just dies, and there is no tension. I tried pumping the lever while going abt 5mhp and I could feel it starting to work, but after a while, it goes back to the same problem... This is my first time bleeding any brakes, any help would be appreciate. thanks,

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 2,336 Answers

Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Front forks on a 1987 Honda Goldwing motorcycle how to change them


Place bike on center stand.
Jack the front of the bike to raise the front wheel off the ground. Be careful!!!
Remove the front wheel.
Remove the front fender and cross brace.
Disconnect the brake calipers from the forks.
Remove the air connections from the fork tops.
Loosen the fork leg clamp bolts on the triple tree.
Slide each leg out of the bike. Twisting while pulling often helps.
This can also be done without removing the front wheel but you will have to elevate the front of the bike another foot or so - just disconnect the air fittings and brake calipers, loosen the clamp bolts and drop the whole front assembly.

Jul 22, 2014 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Change front brake pads, 2002 FXD


For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brakepads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s).

May 13, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

Disc Brake


The teloscopic forks have mounts for disc brakes so you would need forks from a bike with disc brakes and the front tire with the rotor and caliper all off the same bike so it would all bolt up. Most forks are the same diameter but measure to make sure.

Jun 19, 2009 | 2000 Yamaha DT 125 R

1 Answer

Bleeding front brakes


Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 Husqvarna CR 125

2 Answers

Bleeding front brakes


Your $7 bleeder kit typically has a near useless one valve in it. Forget the kits such as these, they usually make things confusing for you.
Firts, make sure all teh brake lines are tightly connected and in good condition. If the flexible lines are over 5 years old, conside getting new ones made/fitted. Stainless/braided lines look good but are NOT necessary for any road bike.

All you need is a long piece of clear hose line (fish tank air line tubing usually works well) that fits the top of the bleed nipples very firmly. The hose should be long enough to hang over your handle bars, or be suspended by a wire or string so that the open end is higher than the master cylinder. You can use two such hoses and do both front calipers at the same time if you wish.

First, manouver the handle bars so that the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible, even to the point of undoing the grip clamp and rotating the whole assembly around the handle bars a bit. Then fit the clear hoses to the caliper bleed nipples.
Remove the top of the master cylinder reseviour and make sure the fluid is topped up. Watch this level the whole time, it is important that the fluid level never get below half full or you risk reintroducing air into the brake lines again. Never reuse old fluid, and always filter any new fluid that has been in the brake system before (run it through a new fuel filter if you are that hard up for money) you reuse it.
Then crack open the bleed nipples on the calipers so that you see fluid start to rise up the hoses ( which is why you want clear hoses). You can pump the lever a few times to get things happening quicker, just watch the master fluid level!
Keep pumping the lever and topping up the fluid level until the level in the tubes is at the same level as the master cylinder. Leave the bleeder nipples open and leave the bike alone for an hour.
After an hour, close the bleeder nipples and top up and refit the master cylinder reserviour cover.
Use a jar under each hose to catch the fluid, remove each hose from its bleeder and let the fluid drain out into the jar. Ditch the used fluid.
Reset the grip to its proper position if it was moved and test the brakes. Pump the lever two times and then release the lever for a few minutes ( at least 1 minute) If the brakes are still soft or wont hold pressure ( if you still have to pump the lever to get pressure, dont ride the bike!) then suspect worn master cylinder or buggered seals.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2006 kawasaki ER-6f

1 Answer

Bleeding front brakes


Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1996 Suzuki VX 800

2 Answers

Bleeding front brakes


Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1985 Suzuki Rg 250 Gamma

1 Answer

Bleeding front brakes


Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1989 Suzuki GSX 550 EF

1 Answer

Bleeding front brakes


Bleed the master first, make sure that there is plenty of fluid going through there and all the air is out. Then, once the master is fully bled, the fluid will pull through the lines quickly. Just do one line at a time, and once you do them both and get good pressure you want to zip tie the lever to the bar overnight to make sure you get all the little bubbles out. Hope that helps.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1992 Suzuki GSX-R 750 WN

1 Answer

Distinct front fork knocking


Put the bike on a stand and grasp the forks at the bottom and push in / out to see if there is any play also check pads in the caliper and brake hose knocking against fork leg etc. if you dont have a stand (or a milk crate) you can sometimes feel play by rocking the bike back and forwards with the front brake applied. Other things to check are that the front tyre pressure isnt too hard .. and I would suggest you bleed the air out of the forks via the top philips screw ,

Nov 10, 2008 | 2007 CCM 404 Enduro

Not finding what you are looking for?
2005 kawasaki KX 250 F Logo

586 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top kawasaki Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4471 Answers

Angelo Stewart
Angelo Stewart

Level 2 Expert

224 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

60541 Answers

Are you a kawasaki Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...