Question about 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

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Suspension settings i get a lot of wrist ache on my rf900r, will atering the angle of my clutch and front brake levers solve this problem or is it something more serious than that

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Of course this could change. My experience is that after some driving hours the wrist gets better.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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1 Answer

My brake light switch is stuck where is it

On a lot of models - you'll have one switch that is activated when you press down on the rear brake lever (foot) - you'll look for a switch device attached to that lever. You'll also have a switch usually on the handlebar levers for front (and rear if applicable levers) you'll see a separate set of wires coming from the lever - when you press in the lever - the switch is engaged and the light should come on - release and it goes out - here's a couple pictures for clarification -
brake-light-switch-stuck-g3tyaai5wkif22rgogwhcqgr-4-0.png #6 above is the actual switch that activates the brake light. To determine if it's this switch giving you problems - simply unplug wire lead.

brake-light-switch-stuck-g3tyaai5wkif22rgogwhcqgr-4-3.png #1 above is the switch for the front brake (if you have an automatic with a rear brake lever on the handlebars - there will be a switch just like this on that lever as well) to determine if this is the culprit - simply unplug. If it is - brake light will go out when you unhook. Good luck & all the best

Justin McCartney
17 South Industries, LLC

Sep 15, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Get brake calupers back on after removing front wheel

Hi Anonymous, if you are having trouble try inserting a large screw driver or chisel in between the pads and force back the caliper pistons enough so that the calipers will slide over the rotors easily. Ater you bolt them back on torque bolts to 20 ft lbs. Then pump brake lever until you get a nice strong feel and your good to go. Good luck

Apr 22, 2014 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer


Change oil/filter
Service air filter (??? replace??)
Clean tappet oil screen (if applicable)
Change primary lube
Adjust Clutch
Change Transmission fluid
Check and adjust chain and belt
Inspect brake pads/discs
Lube; Front brake lever pin, throttle control cables, clutch control cable, jiffystand pin
Check operation of enrichener (carb model?)
Inspect fuel valve, lines, fittings for leaks
Check tire pressure
Check operation of all electrical equipment and switches
Check cruise control disengagement switch and clean connections
Check and adjust battery electrolyte level and clean connections
Change spark plugs
Check engine idle speed and adjust as needed (non-EFI?)
Lube foot shift, brake lever bearings, and speedometer cable (if applicable)
Check brake fluid level and condition
Inspect oil lines and brake system for leaks
Clean or replace fuel tank filter screen
Check air suspension, pressure, operation, leaks
Replace wheel bearings and replace lip seals where applicable
Check tightness of all fasteners except engine head bolts
Lubricate hinges, latches, fuel door, tour pak, and saddle bags
Adjust Springer rocker bearings
Check stabilizer links and engine mounts
Check wheel spoke tightness
Check rear brake pedaladjustment
check front fork bearings and adjust if needed
Check condition of rear shock
Check ignition timing and vacuum hoses
Test ride motorcycle

Jan 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic...

1 Answer

How do I change fork seals

Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
With new clutch frictions you will notice you have to pull the clutch lever a little further to disengage. This is normal but there are a couple of things you can do to help ease the pull.
  1. Go down to a Power Transmission Distributor or Industrial Bearing Supply House and purchase a can of graphite lubrication with the long metal dispensing tube. It's needle thin nozzle fits between the casing and the clutch wire and will allow you to lubricate your clutch cable and ease a lot of the pull tension. Give it a good coat frequently.
  2. Make sure your clutch cable is not pinched or kinked anyplace or has sharp turns. Wire ties can help cable management.
  3. You might be able to lengthen the small clutch engagement lever which really helps a ton. We used to cut them and weld a 1/2 inch adder in the center which increased the leverage and the pull became a one finger operation. Might be some longer aftermarket levers. Wrist muscles and tendons get sore after a long day riding with a lot stops that require clutching. Normal riding/racing you seldom use the clutch other than to get started.
Let us know if we can be of further service.
Kind regards,

Jul 01, 2011 | 2005 KTM 525 MXC Desert Racing

2 Answers

My rpm turns higher but my speed still remains the same.

Sounds like you have a slipping clutch. You can check your owners manual for the proper clutch lever free play. A quick check would be to see where you are starting to engage the clutch or friction zone. With the bike warmed up and running, shift into 1st gear and then start to slowly releash the clutch lever. If the clutch does not start to engage until the lever is 80% released, then you can try adjusting the clutch lever free play. You can do this simply by sliding the rubber cover from the clutch lever. If the cable end is showing a lot of threads then you can loosen the larger lock nut, a serrated looking wheel with a slot in it, and give the cable end a few turns in. Lock in the lock nut and start the bike and see if the friction zone is catching earlier. Try adjusting to get it to catch within the middle of the travel. Once you feel you have the clutch adjusted, give it a road test to see if the engine will not rev higher without a corresponding increase in motorcycle speed. The owners manual will give you a precise range where the clutch lever free play should fall, usually measured from the end of the clutch lever. If the clutch seems to be adjusted properly, then a worn out clutch could be the problem.

Good luck.

Mar 26, 2011 | Suzuki RG 150 Gamma Motorcycles

1 Answer

Zx-9r 2000 how do you remove the clutch side cover to change the clutches

The clutch cover is removed in a two step process.
  • Remove the clutch cable by loosening the adjustment at top and bottom first. Then remove the cable end from the clutch lever. This should give enough slack to remove the cable at the bottom by the clutch cover. ** Take notice of the angle of the lever that the cable goes into the cover. You will want to re-assemble the clutch cover with that lever in the same angle.
  • Remove the clutch cover bolts around the outside of the cover.the cover should now be removed by pulling the cover straight out.

Thanks and I hope that this helps.

Jan 21, 2011 | kawasaki ZX-9R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Front brake lever has little to no play... leaving front brake with too quick of a respone for stopping.

Technically, there is no adjustment for the brake lever,the effort required or the amont of "travel". You have a very responsive lever and if someone unqualified attempts to "fix" this phenomenom, I suspect that you'll be setting yourself up for trouble. Personally, I'd find an empty parking lot and practice, practice, practice as the front brake is responsible for 70% of all effective braking.

Sep 30, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

2 Answers

What motor can fit in the suzuki rf900r

battery , tires, body panels, foot brake lever, mirriors on the right side how much would that cost????

Sep 15, 2009 | 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

1 Answer

What do I need to buy or what should I do if my fuel reserve does not work or what is the fuel capacity for a 1991 Yamaha FZR 600?

var gDcsId="dcsmm6y3q0000004zhgx8uuaa_9g7g"; var dom=window.location.hostname.replace(/^www\./,''); window.onload = function() { init(); setThumbnailimages("galleryThumbNails", "galleryImage"); enableMenu("archive"); initLightbox(); }; Technical Specifications 1991-FZR600
Engine Engine type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke, forward inclined parallel 4 cylinder, DOHC 16 valves Displacement 599 cc Bore x stroke 59.0 x 54.8 mm Compression ratio 12.0 : 1 Maximum power 66.8 kW (91 HP) @ 10,500 rpm Maximum torque 65.7 Nm (6.7 kg-m) @ 8,500 rpm Lubrication system Wet sump Fuel System Mikuni BDST32 x4 Clutch type Wet, multiple disc Ignition system Transistor controlled (digital) Starter system Electric Transmission system Constant mesh, 6 speed Primary reduction ratio 1.708 Secundary reduction ratio 3 Final transmission Chain Ratios gearbox 1st 2.846 Ratios gearbox 2nd 1.947 Ratios gearbox 3rd 1.55 Ratios gearbox 4th 1.333 Ratios gearbox 5th 1.192 Ratios gearbox 6th 1.111 Chassis Front suspension system Telescopic fork Front wheel travel 130 mm Rear suspension system Swingarm (Link suspension) Rear wheel travel 115 mm Caster angle 25° Trail 94 mm Front brake Dual discs, ø 298 mm Rear brake Single disc, ø 245 mm Front tyre 110/70V17 V240 Rear tyre 140/60V18 V240 Dimensions Overall length 2,165 mm Overall width 700 mm Overall height 1,155 mm Seat height 785 mm Wheelbase 1,425 mm Minimum ground clearance 135 mm Dry weight 181 kg Fuel tank capacity (reserve) 18 L Engine oil tank capacity 3.1 L

Jun 27, 2009 | 1991 Yamaha FZR 600

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