Question about 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

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Suspension settings i get a lot of wrist ache on my rf900r, will atering the angle of my clutch and front brake levers solve this problem or is it something more serious than that

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Of course this could change. My experience is that after some driving hours the wrist gets better.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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1 Answer

Get brake calupers back on after removing front wheel


Hi Anonymous, if you are having trouble try inserting a large screw driver or chisel in between the pads and force back the caliper pistons enough so that the calipers will slide over the rotors easily. Ater you bolt them back on torque bolts to 20 ft lbs. Then pump brake lever until you get a nice strong feel and your good to go. Good luck

Apr 22, 2014 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

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WHAT IS DONE ON A 10K SERVICE FLHRC 2007


Change oil/filter
Service air filter (??? replace??)
Clean tappet oil screen (if applicable)
Change primary lube
Adjust Clutch
Change Transmission fluid
Check and adjust chain and belt
Inspect brake pads/discs
Lube; Front brake lever pin, throttle control cables, clutch control cable, jiffystand pin
Check operation of enrichener (carb model?)
Inspect fuel valve, lines, fittings for leaks
Check tire pressure
Check operation of all electrical equipment and switches
Check cruise control disengagement switch and clean connections
Check and adjust battery electrolyte level and clean connections
Change spark plugs
Check engine idle speed and adjust as needed (non-EFI?)
Lube foot shift, brake lever bearings, and speedometer cable (if applicable)
Check brake fluid level and condition
Inspect oil lines and brake system for leaks
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Replace wheel bearings and replace lip seals where applicable
Check tightness of all fasteners except engine head bolts
Lubricate hinges, latches, fuel door, tour pak, and saddle bags
Adjust Springer rocker bearings
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check front fork bearings and adjust if needed
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Jan 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King Classic...

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Replacement of v belt


Instructions1 Place the riding mower on a level surface and set the emergency brake. Open the engine or tilt the seat back to gain access to the battery. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn off the main fuel petcock valve from the tank to the carburetor. Set the attachment clutch in the "Disengage" position. Set the motion control lever to neutral. Place the mower deck lift lever in its lowest position to drop the deck.
2 Pull the belt against the engine drive pulley, then pull upward on it and slip it off the pulley. Unclasp the small clutch retainer spring from the pulley bolt. Detach the big retaining spring and then slide the collar sleeve off. Shove the housing guide out from the br
3 Pull the retainer springs off that hold the rear suspension arms to the rear mower deck bracket. Disconnect the front link arms that hold the front of the mower deck to the chassis. Pull the lift lever to put the suspension arms at full height.
4 Slide the mower deck out from the bottom of the tractor. Tilt the mower deck and prop it up with wood blocks. Use a stiff cleaning brush to remove all mud, twigs and grass clumps. Wipe the top of the deck and undercarriage with a rag.
5 Un-thread the belt from around the idler and mandrel pulley. Place the new belt around the mandrel pulley and idler pulley first, then stretch it up to the drive pulley and loop it into the pulley grooves. Make sure the V part of the belt rests inside the pulley.
6 Use the lever to raise the suspension arms on the deck. Push the deck back under the tractor. Lower the suspension arms and replace all the retaining springs in reverse or the order in which you removed them. Slide the sleeve back into position and secure it with the spring. Reattach the spring to the anti-sway bar. Shove the housing guide back into its bracket.
7 Raise the mower deck with the lever. Reconnect the negative battery cable with a socket. Turn on the fuel petcock valve. Start the engine and engage the main drive lever. Test-drive.

THanks

Apr 02, 2012 | Vacuums

1 Answer

How do I change fork seals


Thank you for contacting FixYa with your inquiry.
With new clutch frictions you will notice you have to pull the clutch lever a little further to disengage. This is normal but there are a couple of things you can do to help ease the pull.
  1. Go down to a Power Transmission Distributor or Industrial Bearing Supply House and purchase a can of graphite lubrication with the long metal dispensing tube. It's needle thin nozzle fits between the casing and the clutch wire and will allow you to lubricate your clutch cable and ease a lot of the pull tension. Give it a good coat frequently.
  2. Make sure your clutch cable is not pinched or kinked anyplace or has sharp turns. Wire ties can help cable management.
  3. You might be able to lengthen the small clutch engagement lever which really helps a ton. We used to cut them and weld a 1/2 inch adder in the center which increased the leverage and the pull became a one finger operation. Might be some longer aftermarket levers. Wrist muscles and tendons get sore after a long day riding with a lot stops that require clutching. Normal riding/racing you seldom use the clutch other than to get started.
Let us know if we can be of further service.
Kind regards,
TF

Jul 01, 2011 | 2005 KTM 525 MXC Desert Racing

1 Answer

Front brake lever has little to no play... leaving front brake with too quick of a respone for stopping.


Technically, there is no adjustment for the brake lever,the effort required or the amont of "travel". You have a very responsive lever and if someone unqualified attempts to "fix" this phenomenom, I suspect that you'll be setting yourself up for trouble. Personally, I'd find an empty parking lot and practice, practice, practice as the front brake is responsible for 70% of all effective braking.

Sep 30, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

WHEN I APPLY BRAKES FRONT END SHAKES


A few possibilities
1. Front disc's may be warped
2. Rear drums may be out of shape
Easy way to check gently pull the handbrake lever when going forward if the drums are out of shape you will feel vibration through the lever.
3. Front wheel bearings may have excessive play
4. Suspension component(s) worn
wishbone bushes are a common failiure on Escort's
Hope this helps
Best wishes

Oct 19, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

2 Answers

What motor can fit in the suzuki rf900r


battery , tires, body panels, foot brake lever, mirriors on the right side how much would that cost????

Sep 15, 2009 | 1994 Suzuki RF 900 R

1 Answer

Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

What do I need to buy or what should I do if my fuel reserve does not work or what is the fuel capacity for a 1991 Yamaha FZR 600?


var gDcsId="dcsmm6y3q0000004zhgx8uuaa_9g7g"; var dom=window.location.hostname.replace(/^www\./,''); window.onload = function() { init(); setThumbnailimages("galleryThumbNails", "galleryImage"); enableMenu("archive"); initLightbox(); }; Technical Specifications 1991-FZR600
Engine Engine type Liquid cooled, 4-stroke, forward inclined parallel 4 cylinder, DOHC 16 valves Displacement 599 cc Bore x stroke 59.0 x 54.8 mm Compression ratio 12.0 : 1 Maximum power 66.8 kW (91 HP) @ 10,500 rpm Maximum torque 65.7 Nm (6.7 kg-m) @ 8,500 rpm Lubrication system Wet sump Fuel System Mikuni BDST32 x4 Clutch type Wet, multiple disc Ignition system Transistor controlled (digital) Starter system Electric Transmission system Constant mesh, 6 speed Primary reduction ratio 1.708 Secundary reduction ratio 3 Final transmission Chain Ratios gearbox 1st 2.846 Ratios gearbox 2nd 1.947 Ratios gearbox 3rd 1.55 Ratios gearbox 4th 1.333 Ratios gearbox 5th 1.192 Ratios gearbox 6th 1.111 Chassis Front suspension system Telescopic fork Front wheel travel 130 mm Rear suspension system Swingarm (Link suspension) Rear wheel travel 115 mm Caster angle 25° Trail 94 mm Front brake Dual discs, ø 298 mm Rear brake Single disc, ø 245 mm Front tyre 110/70V17 V240 Rear tyre 140/60V18 V240 Dimensions Overall length 2,165 mm Overall width 700 mm Overall height 1,155 mm Seat height 785 mm Wheelbase 1,425 mm Minimum ground clearance 135 mm Dry weight 181 kg Fuel tank capacity (reserve) 18 L Engine oil tank capacity 3.1 L

Jun 27, 2009 | 1991 Yamaha FZR 600

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