Question about 2004 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa limited edition

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Clutch slipage had some clutch slippage today on my k8 . gave the lever a flick to do a wheelie and rpms went up but front end didn't.. tire wasn't spinning. almost 4000 miles. happened b4 on another bike i had with slipper clutch.. anybody got any ideas?

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  • Anonymous Apr 02, 2009

    2nd gear at 4000rpm clutch slips when giving full throttle only on 2nd gear

  • sick rider Apr 02, 2009

    2003 gsxr 1000 at 4 to 5ooo rpm on 2nd gear clutch slips when giving it full throttle only on 2nd gear



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The clutch can be slipping sometimes when u are using full-synthetic oil. A very experienced technician from Suzuki told it to me. I don't know other reasons. Greetings

Posted on Nov 10, 2008


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Originally, i was experiencing slippage in the lower gears but after a week it has moved to all gears..Is it possible this is a chain issue? This is a 2003 kawasaki vulcan 800.

Hello Mike
As the slippage has got worse through each gear now, it sounds like clutch slippage. at first you would of only noticed it in the lower gears as they have more mechanical advantage but as the wear in the clutch got more it now takes less power "torque" to make it slip.
This may just be adjustment, but by now the clutch may be worn out, yo should have some free travel in the cable. should be evident at the lever, usually allow the thickness of the end knob as a distance for the lever to move before it starts to disengage the clutch. there could be adjustment at either end of the cable, this will look like a thread with a lock nut that the cable goes through.

Jan 03, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 2000 Suzuki 600 gsxr clutch issues

Replace all the clutch plates and the springs, or get a racing clutch. And stop slipping the clutch to do wheelies :>)



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  • Jun 12, 2016 | 2000 Suzuki GSX-R 600

    1 Answer

    Loosing power

    1. Power Wheelies
      • 1 Stand above the motorcycle with it running in neutral at the starting line of the track or one end of a long practice area. Pull in the clutch and shift the motorcycle into first gear.
      • 2 Begin rolling forward by rolling on the throttle smoothly and slowly letting out the clutch. When you are at a speed that is comfortable enough to put both feet on the pegs, lean forward on the bike and roll the throttle back quickly. Make this motion as fluid as possible so as not to overdo the wheelie. The front of the motorcycle will rise off the ground.
      • 3 Rev the motorcycle all the way to the red-line in first gear to pull the front of the motorcycle up into the air. This will not be a high or long wheelie, but is a great starting point. When you hit the red-line, pull in the clutch and shift to second. The front end will fall back down. Do not, for any reason, activate the front brake, while the front wheel is in the air, as this will cause the bike to crash upon contacting the pavement.
      Clutching Up
      • 4 Begin riding at a moderate pace in second or third gear. Be sure that you have plenty of space in front of you before beginning the execution of a "Clutch Up"
      • 5 Pull in the clutch as if to shift to the next gear but do not press the shift lever. Instead, rev the motorcycle by rolling back on the throttle smoothly and quickly. Let go of the clutch quickly (but as smoothly as possible) and lean forward to offset the power of the motorcycle.
      • 6 Repeat this maneuver multiple times to get comfortable with the motions. The front of the motorcycle may hop only slightly until you figure out the right amount of throttle and clutch to give the engine. Remember to never hit the front brake with the wheel in the air.
      • 7 Perform a proper wheelie by pulling in the clutch, revving the engine, leaning forward slightly and then dropping the clutch. Be sure to cover the rear brake with your right foot as it will keep the motorcycle from flipping if you give it too much gas.
      • 8 Hold the throttle at a steady position to keep the front wheel in the air. Bring the front wheel back down by pulling in the clutch or pressing softly on the rear brake.

    Jan 16, 2013 | Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder Motorcycles

    1 Answer

    Replaced tie rod ends, lower ball joints and brake rotors after having this done now having problems with the front end jerks back and forth briefly and this problem did not exist before they worked o

    Did they do an alignment after they preformed this work, or did they tell you that you needed to have 1 done? After that much work on your front end, an alignment would need to be done. If they didn't preform one then you should have it done. That could be the source of your problem. Also check your tire wear and inflation other possible factors. If they did their job right those should be the only things it could be, as long as it wasn't a pre-existing condition.

    Jan 08, 2012 | 2001 Volvo S60

    1 Answer

    Rattle and slippage when engaging clutch, only when hot after a ling ride. does not rattle or slip at all when clutch is fully engaged.

    Clutch plates may be worn. You would have to pull the side cover to inspect them. Honda clutch's always rattle at an idle when in neutral. If you just pull in the clutch lever the rattle will go away. Let the lever out and it will rattle again. As for the slippage, if your clutch cable is binding at all it will keep the clutch from fully engaging when you release the handle. This will cause the clutch to slip for a second or two until the cable fully releases from the bind. Any resistance in the cable and you should replace it.

    Aug 04, 2010 | 2003 Honda CB 250 Nighthawk

    1 Answer

    Front wheels quit pulling

    Ya most likely the lever that you normally squeeze to make it "go" has a cable. Cables stretch just like belts. If you replaced the belt already then that automatically removes any stretching that the first belt would have suffered from no doubt. Look at the drive lever's cable up at the lever end. There is usually a cable adjuster there. It will be a threaded shaft portion with a nut or knurled ring to spin. tighten up that "go lever" cable a bit. Even better, if you have visual access to the belt as you squeeze the drive lever, then you can see if squeezing that lever moves one of the belt's pulleys enough to cause it to tighten it up enough to transfer spin motion thru the belt to the other pulley. You see that whole system is really a "slip belt clutch" when belt is loose, no forward motion, as you squeeze the "go/drive" lever the pulley moves away tightening up the belt more and more. The tighter the belt, the less the slippage, the faster you go! But the slippage is necessary! ( That's the clutch component) If you simply had the belt tight all the time, the mower would always go full speed! It would be in full time "run away mode" LOL! so watch out. Once you see it in'll get the idea no problem!

    May 10, 2010 | Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools

    1 Answer

    Riding yesterday and clutch cable went, felt like a rubber band breaking. Had a look today, not broken at either end. Can I fix this myself?

    Sure you can fix it yourself. First lets make sure the cable is broke. When you pull in the clutch does the other end of the cable move?
    If not then disconnect the cable from the lever and pull on the end by hand. Did you just pull a broken cable out of the sleeve?
    If so then purchase a new cable and replce the broken one paying particular attention to the way it is routed. place the adjuster on the lever end a tad less than half way. Adjust the clutch end of the cable to take up the slack. Work the lever 3 times ( to seat everything) and use the adjuster at the lever for final adjustment. You want about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play at the end of the lever befor the cable starts to actuate the clutch arm. Adjust and lock.

    Dec 30, 2009 | 1998 kawasaki ZZR 250

    1 Answer

    I drive a manual transmission 2000 Outback. I was stopped on a steep hill, and when I started trying to go, my RPMs went up to 5000 and I couldn't go anywhere, so I stopped trying and saw some light grey...

    From your description, it does sound like the clutch has again failed.
    You can still safely drive the car, provided you avoid heavy acceleration and don't negotiate steep inclines.
    However, the clutch slip will only get worse, so get it fixed ASAP.
    If the new clutch has failed after only 12 months service, perhaps your clutch pressure plate should also be replaced.
    Note that operator poor clutch technique (excessive slippage during starts) will also cause early clutch failure.

    Jul 31, 2009 | Subaru Outback Cars & Trucks

    1 Answer

    When to change a clutch

    Clutch life all comes down to how you ride it, and more so how much you slip it. I've seen how alot of people ride and honestly wouldn't be suprised if they needed new clutches before they hit 10k miles... makes me cringe hearing them take off from a stop. I think to myself.... "what did that clutch ever do to you?? " LOL But yea if you're not running evergy conserving oil, and there's plenty of freeplay in the lever, then it sounds like it's clutch time. There's no set mileage interval for clutches, just depends on how each individual one is treated. On my bike I've got 113k on the original factory clutch and it's still fine... no slippage at all. My buddies Suzuki Bandit was on it's 3rd clutch by 40k or so (but that bike had other problems too). My Accord I got 321k out of the original factory clutch, and it never started slipping just broke a damper spring on the clutch disc and jammed the clutch. I've known of a woman with a brand new Hyundai that burnt the clutch out in 1000 miles (yea she didn't know how to drive manual... at all). It's all relative Sounds like you need a clutch th

    Nov 20, 2008 | 2006 kawasaki Zephyr 1100

    1 Answer

    Vibration and/or slippage feel on slow right turn

    You could be experiencing a slippage from the transfer-case as the clutch in there has to give or "slip" or drive-line binding could occur. most of the time this can be corrected just by servicing the transfer case and using the proper fluid and additive for the viscus clutches inside. The proper fluid is "autotrac fluid" from any g.m. dealer. its not cheap but must be used because of this condition. You could also be experiencing tire slipage because the clutch may not slip as it should. once again check and or service tha transfer case. To check the fluid you have to remove the "fill" plug on the rear of the transfer-case. This is the upper plug. Some are an allen hole requiring an allen wrench and some have a big hex bolt head aprox.1 1/4" in diameter. after removing the plug you should be able to feel the fluid on your finger if you stick it in there. autotrac fluid is clear in color and should not smell burn't. Good luck

    Aug 30, 2008 | 1999 Oldsmobile Bravada

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