Question about 2006 Suzuki GS 500 F

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Charging problem I wonder if you can give me the output readings from the alternator as I wish to resolve a charging problem. Obvious solution would lie at the voltage regulator, but at £80 I wish to rule out the alternator first.

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For the classic GS range there is an excellent web site. From where I was able trouble shooted my electrical problems very well. Voltage regulators rarely cause problems. Mostly it is the altenator, or the battery. The regulator only makes dc from ac current.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008


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My charging system is not charging the battery ?

Could only be wiring, voltage regulator, or the alternator itself.
Most alternator's have replaceable brushes wish wear out over time, a bit involved but not too difficult. Have a cheap voltmeter on hand and work your way back looking for bad wires.
This is the time a couple bucks spent for a service manual from say amazon for example, will give you simple step by step instructions,, the manual will save you so much frustration you wonder how you ever got by with out it.

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1978 chev k10 alternator output 14.4 on bench, reads 9 amps on truck gauge 12.2 on ampmeter at battery with truck running why

amps reading on the truck amp meter is the current that is being generated to run everything as well as charge a battery that will be at best around 80% charged.bench testing an alternator gives these readings as the regulator is feeding into fully charged batteries with no draw on the system. When batteries are 100% charged the charge rate will be as low as 2 amps but in a car where there is a current draw for the ECM , ignition , fuel pump and what ever the alternator feeds these first before it charges a battery. You used a amp meter to get a voltage reading which is reading the voltage drop across the current draw. If you had used a voltmeter (multimeter) then you would see a voltage increase with the rpm increase. The

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1 Answer

1984 Honda Goldwing Gl 1200 not charging

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
84 GL1200 won charge battery
Honda GL1200D Shop Manual
Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

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1 Answer

The battery wont remain charged its fine for a few months then it wont hold its charge

Hello and good morning. Couple of things going on. First, alternator isn't charging, or is it.
Lets check the alternating output (battery positive and negative post). Take a cheap voltage meter and set it for DC volts around 20 volts on the scale. Place the test leads across the battery while the engine is running. The voltage across the battery terminals should be 13.8 DC volts to 14.1 DC volts. If you are getting this reading in volts from the multi-meter then you vehicle is charging correctly.

Next, check to see if there is a ground wire on the alternate it just a breaded copper cable the is hook to the case of the alternator to the engine block. If there is a ground cable, then that is OK.

Now, let check the tension of the alternator serpentine belt, it need to tight but extremely tight. Also check the condition of the belt. If it has cracks along the inter ridges of this serpentine belt then it needs to be replaced.

Any of the three things mentioned above can and will give problem to your vehicle. Also, any combination of the three above. Wish you luck. GB...stewbison

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2 Answers

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Wish you luck on this one.

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1 Answer

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