Went for my first long ride yesterday, about three and an half hours. Just about glad to get home as my knees were cramping up. Just a matter of getting used to though. Great trip. Really happy with the bike, except for one small thing...........
What are your thoughts on the rear view vision? I can see behind in the right lane and the left lane but cannot see immediately behind me. I cannot see if there is traffic up my back. Any thoughts or recommendations?
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Re: Rear View Mirrors
For what it´s worth I have noticed what appears to be better rear-veiw from the left hand mirror and have got into the habit of tipping the bike if I´m desperate to see whats going down on the right of the bike. I beleive EMGO have a good selection of aftermarket mirrors and IMHO it would be a simple job to measure the centres of the existing mirrors and see whats available in something with a longer stand. Suzuki are great ones for adopting the universal fit theory... so there is bound to be something out there that will suit your needs
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I would never think a bike was smart enough to shut down unneeded accessories like that but then again I haven't been around many newer ones much. I would just charge it ride it and see if it happens again. if you get done riding and the battery reads low again that should answer your question
Hi Anonymous, call, take a ride or trailer your bike over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary/possible and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Good luck have a nice day.
There are two spring tensions used. 127 or 137N/mm. Be carefull adjusting the unit because over-adjustment can release the mechanism and spring with disasterous results. At one end of the unit are a pair of half nuts. One of which, the outermost, is the lock nut. With two spanners, release the lock nut. Screwing the adjustment nut in will increase the tension. I have a Buel M2 and a friend of mine adjusted the tension too low. He went over a trough in the road at speed leaving the rear numberplate and lights behind!
It sounds like a problem with the charging circuit. You should be able to ride with your lights on!
The first thing to do is put a multimeter set to DC Volts across the battery with the engine running. Are you seeing more than 13.5 volts? If not there is a charging problem. It could be the regulator/rectifier or the stator windings, or just loose electrical connections if you are very lucky. I have a manual for the 900 Fireblade (I used to have a 98 Blade) so let me know if you need anymore help.
Depends on how good a mechanic you are and how much experience you have with performing this procedure. I would guess it would take about three hours if you know what you're doing and have everything you need on hand and you're fast. Five otherwise.
The shops use a book that tells them how much to charge for doing that job regardless of the time it takes. If the book says it's a three hour job, you get charged for three hours labor even if the guy does it in two and a half or if it takes him four hours. Most shops, both motorcycle and automotive, use the books these days on most everything other than electrical work.
Why worry? What is done is done. I'd ride the bike and just see how it does. If the weather was like you said it was and she let it run for a half hour, it's probably alright. It is an air cooled engine and 40° weather is pretty cool. Just go home and ride it like you stole it and if it runs alright, just keep on riding and grinning.
If not, come back here and tell me what it's doing that you don't like. We'll see what we can do. The test is to run a compression test on it. It the compression is good, the engine is good.
change the coil you may not think it got hot but sometimes a coil can overheat on the inside just enough to break the copper winding. when riding hard slow down for a couple of miles to give everything time to get back to normal temps before shutting it off
It sounds like a loose connection in the wiring harness as you described moving wires around... either that, or there is some ferrous debris stuck to your speedo pickup.
My dad''s VW wagon was throwing CEL codes that said the cam timing sensor was faulty. VW kept resetting the codes, saying this was normal. Three visits later, someone finally went and looked, and there was a piece of ferrous casting flash that had attached itself to the cam timing pickup (magnetic). Debris removed, no more CEL codes.
Any inductive pickup like that will be thrown off if there is debris that has attached itself via magnetism.
But the most obvious and likely culprit is loose wiring connections, as mentioned already.